Advice on project setup / resistors / safety

Hi Guys

Just wanting some advice on the above setup thanks.

I’ve made simple setup where if someone triggers the motion sensor, it plays a lightening & thunder sound on the mini mp3 player. The sound causes the leds to flash on and off via the mosfet. Triggered by the sounds levels.

I would like the set up to stay in place for a decent time and to prolong the life of all the parts.

Can anyone see any part that they would improve from a safety / prolonging the life of the components? I fell I should have a resistor on the speaker out to Arduino AO. But I’m not sure what one?

Also any advice the physical setup too.

Anyway any advice would be much appreciated.

Cheers

Ben

Why do you have that connection?

How much current do the LEDs use?

Apart from the redundant A0 connection, looks ok. I personally don’t use a divider to DFR RX, just 1k in series. What vol setting in the DFR code? I rarely go higher than 20 to minimise risk of distortion.

I'll give you my usual advice. If you are building a circuit on a breadboard, use a breadboard compatible model of Arduino, like a Nano, instead of an Uno (or Mega or Due) which is physically (rather than electrically) incompatible with breadboards :slight_smile:

The 10K resistors are in the wrong place. The circuit probably still works ok, but it's more correct to use the 10K to pull down the Arduino pins, not the MOSFET gates.

Does that make any difference? Yes. In the way you have connected them, the 10K combined with the 470R make voltage dividers which will reduce the voltage at the MOSFET gates from 5V to around 5*10000/(10000+470) = 4.8V. So only a small drop in this case.

The higher the voltage at the MOSFET gates the better, to reduce the on-resistance of the MOSFETs to a minimum, which gives maximum brightness to your LEDs and minimum heating of the MOSFETs.

Hi Jim. Thanks for your response.

I am using the AO connection as my sound from mp3 to the Arduino so it can trigger the leds. I’m guessing I should probably be using the TX instead. Is that what you would do?

Regarding the leds current use. I’m not entirely sure, plus I’m now going to add 5 led strips instead of 2. I’m using 5m 30 led per meter strips. Power in is 12v 5 amps. I’m working on the principle that as long as I have enough amps then the leds should use the current they need. Is this sensible?

Hi Terry pin. Thanks for that.
I am currently using max 30 from the DRF. I might drop this to 20 as you say.

Hi Paul

Thanks for the feedback.
So I should re-position the 10k resistors on the mosfet gates to where the pin leaves the Arduino before it gets to the mosfet?

I put the resistor at the mosfet gates based on this video ( see 2 mins )

How would you set this up?

Cheers

Ben

OK. That is fine but for protection, I would put a 1K resistor in series with the connection.
Are you Using it to modulate the intensity with PWM or turn them on/off?

I’m working on the principle that as long as I have enough amps then the leds should use the current they need. Is this sensible?

Yes that is true but most solderless breadboards can't handle more that 1A. You need to check the current.

Yes. To be precise, before it gets to the 470R.

In that video, there is no resistor between the Arduino pin and the MOSFET gate, like your 470R resistors, they are directly connected by wire (which is not advisable). In that case the 10K is both between the gate and ground and also between the Arduino pin and ground. There is no difference.

But you, correctly, have a current limiting resistor between the Arduino pin and the MOSFET gate. So it makes a difference where you connect your 10K pulldown.

Thanks Paul. Appreciate this advice.

If you see my image here. I the mosfet on the left is the original setup. The one on the right now has the 10k resistor shifted to before the 470 ohm one. Is this correct? As you were suggesting?

The 10k pulldown resistor should be connected between the output pin and ground, 470R gate resistor between output pin and gate. Pulldown resistor should not be connected directly to gate.

Like this, replace motor and diode with your LED.

Hard to say. Your wiring diagram was messy before, now it's even more messy. Post a schematic please, not a wiring diagram.

Thanks JCA34F

This is clear now.

Appreciate the advice

Ben

You still have the max current issue with your breadboard.

Thanks Jim. Appreciate this advice as I really want to get this right.

I have ordered a prototype board and will use this now.

I have pasted the specs below. It says:

PCB trace current capacity 10a. I assume this should be ok now.

But I am also wanting to increase the LEDs on one of the outputs via the mosfet to : 8 LEDs, 6w each , 12v

I assume the prototype board, plus the mosfet handle this new current increase? Will use 20g wire

Should I be thinking of a heat sink?

Cheers Ben

ring Pattern: 2 Distribution Strips
1 Terminal Strip
200 Distribution Holes
630 Terminal Holes
Dimensions: 6.6" x 2.3" x 0.0625" (167.64mm x 58.42mm x 1.6mm)
PCB construction: FR-4 UL94V-0
PCB operating temperature range: -40°C to +130°C (-40°F to +266°F)
PCB reflow maximum temperature: +260°C (500°F)
PCB trace width: 0.059” (1.5mm)
PCB trace thickness: 1 oz copper / ft2 (1.4 mils) (0.03556 mm)
PCB trace current capacity*: 10A continuous @ 40°C rise, 13A continuous @ 80°C rise*
Hole size: 1.0mm (40 mils) diameter
Recommended pin size: 25 mil square wire wrap posts or smaller
Diameter of 4 corner mounting holes: 3.2mm (125 mils)

So the total current will be (8 x 6)/12 = 4A. You are OK!

Should I be thinking of a heat sink?

Let's see. The current is 4A. the MOSFET resistance is 0.025Ω,
The power dissipated as heat will be 4² x 0.025 = 0.4W. No heatsink needed but they will get warm