ok well the motor is the standard toy dc motor but i don't know the specifics heres a pic
You could probably get away with an L293 (~ 600 mA) or L298 (~ 2 Amp) h-bridge IC based controller. These ICs can drive up to two DC motors; the L293 can source up to 600 mA per motor, and can't be bridged (that is, you can only run two motors off one chip - you can use a single chip to drive a single motor such that you get double the current rating. However, I have heard of people "stacking" L293's to double the current, if needed.
The L298 can source up to 2 Amps per motor (depending on the variant - check the datasheet; IIRC, the L298N does 2 Amps) - or you can bridge the two outputs (thus only driving one motor) for up to 4 Amps, if needed. Note that it is best to get the L298 as a pre-built controller, it doesn't have a standard 0.1" pinout and -will not- fit on a breadboard (there are adaptors for it, though - see http://www.jrhackett.net/L298adapter.shtml).
To figure out what you need - first look on the motor (the plastic end-bell where the terminals are, mainly) - there may be a manufacturer name and model number there; these motors look like cheap Mabuchi hobby motors though, likely rated 3-6 volts DC at an outside max of 1 Amp stall current.
Put your multimeter in current measurement mode, and place the leads inline on the motor (DO NOT DO THIS IN VOLTAGE MODE!), then apply 3-6 volts and note the current consumption - that's your running current. Do the same, but grab the shaft to stall it - that's the "stall current" - or the maximum current you need to be able to supply. If it it greater than 600 mA, use an L298, otherwise use a L293.
Note, also, that you may need a heatsink on the motor driver IC if you are going to run the chips at anywhere near their maximum output - so keep that in mind as you test and shop.