Arduino Lightsaber

Dizzyua: You are design board on android phone? :) I thinks what you create design project in some software and after create real board :)

I use a process called toner transfer where I print the artwork on gloss photo paper, then after cleaning the copper I place the work print side down on the copper and put them through a hot roll laminator set to max temp.

The heat and pressure from the laminator re melts the toner which sticks to the copper a lot better than it does the gloss paper.

It's then put in warm water to remove all the paper (and gloss layer) and put in the etch tank.

Canobi: Methinks there has been a slight misunderstanding.

The 1" deal is all down to the stock alu tubing I use to scratch build some of my saber with. To make my life a bit easier in the workshop, I use a 30mm OD x 25mm ID tube for the main body as it's ID is the same size as the poly blades so also doubles as the blade seat. I then sleeve the main body with 30mm ID tubes of varying thickness (usually up to 34mm as its hard to find thicker tubing with the same ID) to make the emitter shrouds and/or other hilt details and other parts.

Having the board fit a 25mm hole also doesn't leave anyone out.

When I started out making sabers, I only ever used 1 1/4" PVC:

I only have WIP shots of the silver ones but the blue one turned out like this:

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Cool sabers! I should also amend what I said earlier. I don't like 1¼" thick-walled (schedule 40) PVC for anywhere I might need to wrap my hand around, but thin-walled is OK. If you look at my WT588D stand-alone video, that's a 1¼" thin-walled PVC pipe extension. In my PVC saber with cheap hasbro board, that's a combination of 1" and 1¼" schedule 40. So, 1¼" is OK as long as it's used somewhere other than where I'll hold it with my dominant hand.

OK, the board is finished and I just need to export the PDFs to photoshop for a quick tweak.

I'll attach a high res pic of of the layout later but first I wanted to quickly go over the new power rail system.

I had to put my thinking cap on for this one but a comment made a while back about bridging gave me an idea.

The power rails are now regulated as requested and supports singular, or multi voltage setups for the pro mini and WT in any combination you wish using a new bridging system.

I made this set of pics to show which pads are bridged to achieve the various voltage options:

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Canobi: OK, the board is finished and I just need to export the PDFs to photoshop for a quick tweak.

I'll attach a high res pic of of the layout later but first I wanted to quickly go over the new power rail system.

I had to put my thinking cap on for this one but a comment made a while back about bridging gave me an idea.

The power rails are now regulated as requested and supports singular, or multi voltage setups for the pro mini and WT in any combination you wish using a new bridging system.

I made this set of pics to show which pads are bridged to achieve the various voltage options:

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I like the concept.

A few notes (I know you love these):

1) You'll need to move the arduino power off of the RAW pin and move it to VCC. Giving 3.3V to the raw pin will never power any type of pro mini. It won't work because you''ll be feeding 3.3V into the 3.3V regulator on the board. Since the power rails are all regulated now, you should be putting it to the VCC pin anyway because it doesn't make sense to regulate the voltage twice.

2) I like the bridge concept, however I suggest spacing them out a little and using through-hold vias instead of closely spaced solder pads. This makes it easy for ham-fisted solder novices to put a jumper wire through and solder it more easily. I can see folks accidentally bridging 3.3V to 5V and the chaos that will cause.

3) The VCC pin on the WT588D needs to be connected to the 3.3V rail. Always, no exceptions.

JakeSoft: I like the concept.

A few notes (I know you love these):

1) You'll need to move the arduino power off of the RAW pin and move it to VCC. Giving 3.3V to the raw pin will never power any type of pro mini. It won't work because you''ll be feeding 3.3V into the 3.3V regulator on the board. Since the power rails are all regulated now, you should be putting it to the VCC pin anyway because it doesn't make sense to regulate the voltage twice.

2) I like the bridge concept, however I suggest spacing them out a little and using through-hold vias instead of closely spaced solder pads. This makes it easy for ham-fisted solder novices to put a jumper wire through and solder it more easily. I can see folks accidentally bridging 3.3V to 5V and the chaos that will cause.

3) The VCC pin on the WT588D needs to be connected to the 3.3V rail. Always, no exceptions.

  1. I'm a bit confused, I keep seeing people using Vcc to power stuff, is it an input, output or both?

  2. Through hole vias may be too big for this to work and if I did use them, they would probably be very small anyway but I will look into it.

Spacing the pads out any further will make them hard to bridge so I might just pre bridge them and have the end user tell me which setup they want to go with when ordering.

  1. When I talk about the WT voltage I do mean it's main power, mem voltage stays at 3v3.

Canobi: 1. I'm a bit confused, I keep seeing people using Vcc to power stuff, is it an input, output or both?

It's both. If you put battery power to the RAW pin then you are supplying power to the Arduino's on-board voltage regulator, which then regulates the voltage to the 3.3V rail on the Arduino itself (in the case of a 3.3V pro mini, it's 5V for a Nano or 5V pro mini).

The VCC pin on the Arduino is tied directly to the Arduino's 3.3V rail, so if you have a regulated supply at the right voltage then you can go right to that pin. By putting power to the VCC pin you are bypassing the voltage regulator on the Arduino board.

Now here's where it gets tricky. If you put power to the RAW pin, that will cause the voltage to be regulated to 3.3V (or 5V, depending on the flavor of Arduino). That VCC pin is still tied directly to the Arduino's regulated power rail, so it now becomes a source of regulated voltage!

So, if you power the arduino with regulated voltage, the VCC pin is an input. If you power the Arduino with the RAW pin, the VCC pin is an output. Neat, huh?

Canobi: 2. Through hole vias may be too big for this to work and if I did use them, they would probably be very small anyway but I will look into it.

Spacing the pads out any further will make them hard to bridge so I might just pre bridge them and have the end user tell me which setup they want to go with when ordering.

That sounds like an excellent idea.

Canobi: 3. When I talk about the WT voltage I do mean it's main power, mem voltage stays at 3v3.

Ok, I was just noticing on the diagrams that you posted that the 3.3v pin on the WT588D had nothing attached to it.

Dude, I Love your job! I Came here thanks to your last video on youtube (Arduino Lightsaber Mk IV Breadboard) and i have this Things:

  • Arduino Pro Mini (3.3V & 5V version 8) )
  • 2 ADXL335 Accelerometer (Sparkfun & Analog Devices)
  • Wt588d-28p & WT588D Usb Interface -32MBits
  • 16-pin DIP socket :grin:
  • 1w Red Led
  • A Library of lightsaber sounds.wav :P

Like I see, I Have all to build the Lightsaber but... I an a Arduino Noob :disappointed_relieved: And I dont found a Assemble Schematic and Code to use assemble and test :'( ... You can do One like tutorial? I just want to make a bladebuilders modified Lightsaber with the standart sounds things like On/Off , Swing, Shock and "Wnnnnnnn" (Yeah, Sounds crazy Hahaha :sob: ) Like this: Lightsaber sound effects And like i say, Good Work on every Mark Haha :grin:

JakeSoft: It's both. If you put battery power to the RAW pin then you are supplying power to the Arduino's on-board voltage regulator, which then regulates the voltage to the 3.3V rail on the Arduino itself (in the case of a 3.3V pro mini, it's 5V for a Nano or 5V pro mini).

The VCC pin on the Arduino is tied directly to the Arduino's 3.3V rail, so if you have a regulated supply at the right voltage then you can go right to that pin. By putting power to the VCC pin you are bypassing the voltage regulator on the Arduino board.

Now here's where it gets tricky. If you put power to the RAW pin, that will cause the voltage to be regulated to 3.3V (or 5V, depending on the flavor of Arduino). That VCC pin is still tied directly to the Arduino's regulated power rail, so it now becomes a source of regulated voltage!

So, if you power the arduino with regulated voltage, the VCC pin is an input. If you power the Arduino with the RAW pin, the VCC pin is an output. Neat, huh?

Well that explains it then, very neat :)

JakeSoft: Ok, I was just noticing on the diagrams that you posted that the 3.3v pin on the WT588D had nothing attached to it.

Ah yes, I hadn't reconnected it when I took the screen grabs, done now.

Sorry about this but I've had to reverse order the XYZ pin designation as I realised the ADXL was facing the wrong way round which would make it impossible to mount the 5v micro boost buck.

Canobi:
Sorry about this but I’ve had to reverse order the XYZ pin designation as I realised the ADXL was facing the wrong way round which would make it impossible to mount the 5v micro boost buck.

That’s not a big deal, actually as my software doesn’t currently care which axis is which anyway. :wink:

I updated the code in post #366 to reflect this.

MegaCorsair: Dude, I Love your job! I Came here thanks to your last video on youtube (Arduino Lightsaber Mk IV Breadboard) and i have this Things:

  • Arduino Pro Mini (3.3V & 5V version 8) )
  • 2 ADXL335 Accelerometer (Sparkfun & Analog Devices)
  • Wt588d-28p & WT588D Usb Interface -32MBits
  • 16-pin DIP socket :grin:
  • 1w Red Led
  • A Library of lightsaber sounds.wav :P

Like I see, I Have all to build the Lightsaber but... I an a Arduino Noob :disappointed_relieved: And I dont found a Assemble Schematic and Code to use assemble and test :'( ... You can do One like tutorial? I just want to make a bladebuilders modified Lightsaber with the standart sounds things like On/Off , Swing, Shock and "Wnnnnnnn" (Yeah, Sounds crazy Hahaha :sob: ) Like this: Lightsaber sound effects And like i say, Good Work on every Mark Haha :grin:

Hello, and welcome to the discussion! It looks like you've got what you need to get started. My best advice is to read this entire thread, although now that you mention it, I never did really post up a schematic for the Mk. III/IV systems that use the accelerometer. Oh well, maybe when I have time I'll create one. But if you're just starting out, you've got a while before you need to worry about that.

Step 1 is to get your Arduino talking to your WT588D. Once you get that, you're ready to move on to some buttons and sensors.

JakeSoft: Hello, and welcome to the discussion! It looks like you've got what you need to get started. My best advice is to read this entire thread, although now that you mention it, I never did really post up a schematic for the Mk. III/IV systems that use the accelerometer. Oh well, maybe when I have time I'll create one. But if you're just starting out, you've got a while before you need to worry about that.

Step 1 is to get your Arduino talking to your WT588D. Once you get that, you're ready to move on to some buttons and sensors.

Thanks for the Response! I'm gonna try that meamwhile I wait for your tutorial dude :)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-Pro-Micro-ATmega32U4-5V-16MHz-Replace-ATmega328-Arduino-Pro-/191756162028?hash=item2ca58ed3ec:g:eWYAAOSwnH1WZ8IF

1cm shorter than the Nano.
a bit more “ready-to-run” than the Pro Mini

the 5v version is 16mhz

All finished :)

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And here's a link to the high res pic as promised:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/e79t2a7bo8ggo4w/Spectrum%20saber%20board%20-%20ADXL%20varient.jpg?dl=0

billpealer: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-Pro-Micro-ATmega32U4-5V-16MHz-Replace-ATmega328-Arduino-Pro-/191756162028?hash=item2ca58ed3ec:g:eWYAAOSwnH1WZ8IF

1cm shorter than the Nano. a bit more "ready-to-run" than the Pro Mini

the 5v version is 16mhz

Ooo, and it comes in 3.3V flavor as well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Pro-Micro-ATmega32U4-3-3V-8MHz-Replace-ATmega328-Arduino-Pro-Mini-M94-/351493857244?hash=item51d6aa9fdc:g:ZNYAAOSw8cNUNjmE

It's actually smaller than the Pro Mini if you take into account the programming headers on the mini either add additional height (straight pins) or length (90-degree pins).

Anyone want to sell me an ADXL335? They are wicked cheap from China, but i don't want to wait 3 weeks.

the cheapest i can find on ebay US location is $4.78

anyone have an extra? i'll pay $4.50 :)

JakeSoft: Ooo, and it comes in 3.3V flavor as well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Pro-Micro-ATmega32U4-3-3V-8MHz-Replace-ATmega328-Arduino-Pro-Mini-M94-/351493857244?hash=item51d6aa9fdc:g:ZNYAAOSw8cNUNjmE

It's actually smaller than the Pro Mini if you take into account the programming headers on the mini either add additional height (straight pins) or length (90-degree pins).

dazwadimzayin! wait? what? why do you WANT to go 3v? now you can use the WT588D_U guilt free. you get less wiring, and a faster cpu by double. all devices can be 5v and USB. no need for a 5v regulator,.. no need for 2 V+ going into the WT.. so many pluses.

Have you tried a legit distributor? http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/sensors-transducers/accelerometers/1966355?k=ADXL335 http://www.mouser.com/Sensors/Motion-Position-Sensors/_/N-6g7q6?Keyword=ADXL335&FS=True

billpealer: dazwadimzayin! wait? what? why do you WANT to go 3v? now you can use the WT588D_U guilt free. you get less wiring, and a faster cpu by double. all devices can be 5v and USB. no need for a 5v regulator,.. no need for 2 V+ going into the WT.. so many pluses.

Yeah, there are a lot of pluses to be sure. I have been building these for quite a while now and tried lots of different things. I just like the 3.3V setup because it offers the greatest flexibility and ease for the particular way that I do things. Remember that the parts I use (WT588D 16p and GY-61 ADXL335) both require a 3.3V source.

CrossRoads: Have you tried a legit distributor? http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/sensors-transducers/accelerometers/1966355?k=ADXL335 http://www.mouser.com/Sensors/Motion-Position-Sensors/_/N-6g7q6?Keyword=ADXL335&FS=True

Good suggestion, but I think he needs a breakout board.

Look what I found from Sears of all places! http://www.sears.com/unique-bargains-2pcs-gy-61-adxl335-module-3/p-SPM7928239123?hlSellerId=29267&sid=IDx20110310x00001i&kpid=SPM7928239123&kispla=SPM7928239123

Must be some appliances they sell use them for something; it's under replacement parts.

CrossRoads: Have you tried a legit distributor? http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/sensors-transducers/accelerometers/1966355?k=ADXL335 http://www.mouser.com/Sensors/Motion-Position-Sensors/_/N-6g7q6?Keyword=ADXL335&FS=True

WHAT?! Is this some kind of CS joke? That's a terrible suggestion! LOL.

If I asked you where to buy a fish sandwich, and you showed me a picture of a lake and said "try here",.. i'd either laugh or be insulted. So i'll just laugh.

And the people here are pretty dang legit.

I need the module, not the chip. as 99.99999999999999997651% of everyone else would too.

plus DigiKey sells the Chip for $6.00!!!!???? you can get the whole module for $5 on the bay and apparently at Sears! LOL