JakeSoft: Hmm... I was worried about that. Those pin headers are eating up a lot of space. Were going to have to in-line it with the battery at this rate. I wonder if there would be a way to remove those plastic spacers on the headers so that the component on top lied flatter on the larger PCB. It's that clearance that's killing us.
this is the #1 reason i go headerless on the Nanos. and go wire IN from the top of the thing and solder there. when i made the nano/WT stack in my Saber 1.0, i lost maybe 1 full cm to headers, and plastic stand offs. I have been asking every vendor who sells WTs if i can get them with out headers. all have said no. maybe put all non MCU bits on the back of a/the batt holder. fets, regulators, 5v step up. clash sensor, and i can ( or anyone- it's not rocket science) make fins with slits to epoxy onto the sides of the Canobi's PCB.
there has to be something i am missing to make it fit neat. can the pro mini sit IN the hilt? like cross section-wise?. horizontal? if it wasn't for the 3 color fading and the adxl. you could use a ATTINY85 micro-usb version unit,.. and put it IN the hilt horizontal. 2cm x 17mm. THAT would fit TCSS main parts. it is 5v and 6 pin. 3 of which are PWM and no analogs. and if you abandon the busy pin on the WT,.. could run 2 SW-200s for 2 axis old school swings. i actually use 2 SW in a cross and going to one pin in parallel. works. this is all for 1.25" ID too. forget pvc,. nothing fits in there. WTF do you PVC people use for LED heat sync's anyway? those 3 color LEDs are pricey too. who uses's 10$ PVC hilts with $25 of LEDs? http://www.ebay.com/itm/5X-PCS-Digispark-Kickstarter-Attiny85-USB-Development-Board-for-arduino-/221898923514?hash=item33aa34ddfa:g:W-0AAOSwo6lWJaDh