Arduino Lightsaber

Protonerd: No need to shed Yankee tears :) I talked to the local post clerk, it seems an insured, bubble foil envelope costs about 10$, actually no matter where I send it (US the same as when I send to a neighboring country), non-insured is ~4$.

Well, that's good news. For comparison, domestic uninsured padded envelope from the United States Postal Service is ~2 USD according to my local post office. It goes up from there depending on how much insurance you add.

Hi guys

Started populating the boards only to find the provided SOT-23-5 footprint (used for the 3v3 regulator) is way off scale so had to make my own and mod the layout artwork. Major bummer as finding the couple hrs straight needed to make them was not easy. Got time off next week so I'll see about re doing them then.

I'm also having trouble with converted audio as well. For some reason the WT software won't accept anything above 8Khz, anyone else had this problem?

Protonerd: Look what I've found: http://www.ebay.de/itm/4-Stueck-USB-Rechargeable-4200mAh-3-7V-BRC-18650-Batterie-Battery-Li-ion-AKKU-UK-/272065940619?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

A 3.7V type 18650 battery with in-built USB recharger...? How cool is that? It seems it's only slightly longer (67mm instead of 65) but has a great capacity. Maybe such a battery can be tweaked to connect to the USB of the board and have it charged while connected.

I would not suggest those, the highest 18650 capacity is 3400mah from phillip NCR cells that are pretty expensive. Those are probably some 14500 cells inside a 18650 body with a usb lipo charger, probably a 900mah actuall capacity.

Canobi: I'm also having trouble with converted audio as well. For some reason the WT software won't accept anything above 8Khz, anyone else had this problem?

thats weird, i just open my wavs in audacity, manually change the project rate to 22000 hz and save the new wavs

splinter182: thats weird, i just open my wavs in audacity, manually change the project rate to 22000 hz and save the new wavs

I'm doing exactly that using three audio software packages, audacity (the only free one I've used), acid pro 6 and soundforge 7 but no joy :/

Might do a wt software reinstall and see if that helps.

Canobi: I'm doing exactly that using three audio software packages, audacity (the only free one I've used), acid pro 6 and soundforge 7 but no joy :/

Might do a wt software reinstall and see if that helps.

Is the WT software rejecting your sound files when you attempt to import?

Make sure you actually type "22000" in the project rate menu. If you use the pull down menu without typing, then it will go to 22050, which won't work.

JakeSoft:
Is the WT software rejecting your sound files when you attempt to import?

Make sure you actually type “22000” in the project rate menu. If you use the pull down menu without typing, then it will go to 22050, which won’t work.

Tried that, same story :frowning:

Canobi:
Tried that, same story :frowning:

Hmm. That’s weird. I’ve converted probably hundreds of files that way at 10K, 20K, and 22K Hz and it’s always worked. If you continue to have problems, you could send me your sound files and I could possibly build the binary for you.

Thanks Jake, I'll bare that in mind.

I'm sure it's something stupidly simple going on, not heard anyone else complain about sampling frequency problems.

Found out what the issue was.

The sound files I was trying to convert were mono so I switched to a set of stereo files and it worked a treat.

Canobi:
Found out what the issue was.

The sound files I was trying to convert were mono so I switched to a set of stereo files and it worked a treat.

That’s still strange. All of the files I have used are mono. There must have been something else that it didn’t like. But, as long as you are able to move forward, I guess just go with it.

Oh? that is a bit weird then.

Quick question regarding the hum. I know some have layered it onto the clash/swing sounds.

The hum I have is nearly 30 seconds long so it'll need trimming down but not sure what the optimum duration for the trick to work is (if there is one), or if length is just down to memory size.

Canobi: Oh? that is a bit weird then.

Quick question regarding the hum. I know some have layered it onto the clash/swing sounds.

The hum I have is nearly 30 seconds long so it'll need trimming down but not sure what the optimum duration for the trick to work is (if there is one), or if length is just down to memory size.

There is no set length as long as you aren't running out of flash memory. However how the sounds blend together is impacted by what part of the hum you choose to layer into the other sounds (swing, clash, etc.). Assuming your hum loops seamlessly if played back-to-back, copy a portion of the hum from the end and merge it with your other sounds so that when the sound is done playing, it will transition smoothly into the idle hum sound.

Hum....[clash event]Clash+End_Of_Hum...Hum...Hum...Hum...

splinter182: I would not suggest those, the highest 18650 capacity is 3400mah from phillip NCR cells that are pretty expensive. Those are probably some 14500 cells inside a 18650 body with a usb lipo charger, probably a 900mah actuall capacity.

concur.

billpealer: concur.

Thanks splinter and bill for the feedback. The form and charging with USB sure makes it interesting, but what you write makes sense, probably they cannot squeeze the same capacity in and still include an USB connector. Everything comes with a price. I was just happy to happen upon this ad due to the conversation we had about USB charging of the battery cell.

Protonerd: Thanks splinter and bill for the feedback. The form and charging with USB sure makes it interesting, but what you write makes sense, probably they cannot squeeze the same capacity in and still include an USB connector. Everything comes with a price. I was just happy to happen upon this ad due to the conversation we had about USB charging of the battery cell.

No problem! Didnt want you to try it and be disaapointed in the end.

My preferred set up is an 18650 cell in a battery holder wired to a recharge port and kill key. That way you never have to take a apart the saber to charge the battery but you can still replace the battery if you need to. There are many ways to charge it too, a usb single cell lipo charger are really cheap or if you want faster charge times you can buy a charger from one of the saber makers like saberforge or ultrasabers that already have the 2.1mm plug for the recharge port.

So I'm making progress finally. One line with the WT, working on merging the MPU 6050 code into the design.. but I have what's probably a dumb question:

How the heck do you make a menu work for this? like?? I've been racking my brain.. and I just can't seem to get it.

destructables: So I'm making progress finally. One line with the WT, working on merging the MPU 6050 code into the design.. but I have what's probably a dumb question:

How the heck do you make a menu work for this? like?? I've been racking my brain.. and I just can't seem to get it.

A menu would require a few things.

  1. A way to load and save your configuration (EEPROM)
  2. A way to enter config mode. ex. long press aux button or remove kill key with a button held down, etc, etc.
  3. A way to navigate the menu once in config mode. This can be done with a counter variable and a switch statement, using main and aux button as navigation buttons and long press for confirm.

if( configMode ) //check to see if we are in config mode. { int buttonResult = CheckButtons(); //checks your buttons to see if you up, down or confirm was pressed. switch( menuItem ) { case 1: //handle the button press. } }

just a very simple example, could be done countless of ways.

I think I might have bought the wrong MOSFETs? Or I'm an idiot and I've wired it completely wrong. https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&langId=-1&productId=812236&storeId=10001&krypto=vFgRhKXJZKuM8sLfuPRmxv3tw%2BNp1UpMnGU4ddvL3I4WFZKPJQdG6Q%3D%3D&ddkey=https:StoreCatalogDrillDownView I plug them in and run JakeSoft's sample uSaber code, and it will dim the LED slightly, but it won't turn off. I made sure it's on a PWM pin and everything. (Mild frustration)

EDIT: I'm an idiot. Had it backwards as a mo'suckrah.

destructables: I think I might have bought the wrong MOSFETs? Or I'm an idiot and I've wired it completely wrong. https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&langId=-1&productId=812236&storeId=10001&krypto=vFgRhKXJZKuM8sLfuPRmxv3tw%2BNp1UpMnGU4ddvL3I4WFZKPJQdG6Q%3D%3D&ddkey=https:StoreCatalogDrillDownView I plug them in and run JakeSoft's sample uSaber code, and it will dim the LED slightly, but it won't turn off. I made sure it's on a PWM pin and everything. (Mild frustration)

EDIT: I'm an idiot. Had it backwards as a mo'suckrah.

Glad you got it sorted. Also glad to hear somebody making good use of the USaber library.

JakeSoft: Glad you got it sorted. Also glad to hear somebody making good use of the USaber library.

I won't lie, I'd be up a major creek still without it. It's helped me so much. (Plus when I get frustrated, I plug in my spare arduino with the LED sample code and resistors, and just let it run for a little while. It's very helpful to refresh my dedication by watching that led do its thing. haha!)