i had a happy accident last night. 2x CR123A in series.. I epoxied 2 batt holders together, and realized.. For TCSS (not 1"pvc. maybe 1 1/4" pvc tho) i can rest the nano and WT on the back side of it. add some 3d printed fins (tie fighter) with and extension platform to hold the Mosfets, and sensors to keep it central, and then epoxy the Speaker holder to the other side,..
3d render coming.
You can make it even shorter by chopping off the two ends in the centre to make a duel cell holder.
Here's a pic showing one I put together last year for a cosplayer's prop weapon:
actually, Canobi the board making jedi,.. the batt holders have pcb pins. you could mount your little board doohicky to the back of the batt holders. i think 7.4v is Jake approved if you are hoping to clone his setup. if you need a compact batt system. it may be the one!
I have some of those and tried that but the board width has to be restricted to 20mm wide or the assembly won't fit 1" IDs. There's a pic of my board on page 3 as it was when I first found Jakes thread. The routing is nowhere near as tidy as it is now and the board measured 146mm long without the accelerometer which adds another 15mm to the overall length.
I'm working on ways to bring a cell back into the mix for the smaller hilts somehow but mounting it isnt the way. Not such a problem for the wider fraternity so may look into doing one for those while I look for an answer to the other.
Canobi, can you send, or post me a high-con (high contrast black and white image) of your PCB board and its dimensions. I'd like to make a 3D model of it, and then create a visualization of how it could be applied directly to a battery system. i think i can make a Hi-Con,. if you could tell me the lxwxh, that would be sufficient.
I'll send you a high res PDF as soon as the board has been reworked but for now....
Header pin chassis (the plastic bit) :
W = 1.27mm
H = 1.27mm
I think the pro mini and WT PCB is only .9~1.1mm thick but haven't got good enough calipers to get an exact measurement.
image attached. the white paper would be the cake.
Here's one I mounted on a slightly different kind of cake I made for a stunt saber:
Lithium charging was the first thing on my list to tackle when I decided to make my saber fx system, took me the best part of a year to learn what I needed so I could confidently make and try the circuit without quite so much risk of blowing batteries or myself up. Luckily (though frustratingly) they've been duds and didn't do anything, a much preferable outcome for a failure when dealing with lithuim but I think I've finally worked out where I'm going wrong so making another proto.
The circuit is also now smaller than the cell it charges which makes for some intersting ways to include it. I have three ideas I'm toying with. Two of them were inspired by some S1 flex PCB I bought to play with. It's normally used for making ribbon connectors or 12v flexible LED light strips and is only 4mils (0.1016mm) thick so is super bendy.
- Battery wrap
•The NTC thermistor that tells the ic how hot the cell is getting during the fast charge cycle will get a much more accurate temp reading sat on the battery.
•No increase in space requirements.
• it will need to be put in a cradle or supported in some way so the components don't get knocked off.
• ic will run hotter when the battery gets warm during fast charge cycle
- Hilt lining
This is the reverse to the battery wrap as this time the PCB is fixed to the hilt wall (sorry, no pic for this one)
• the ic will run a lot cooler as the metal of the hilt woll act as a heat sink.
•No increase in space requirements.
•The NTC thermistor that tells the ic how hot the cell is getting during the fast charge cycle will get a much less accurate temp reading sat on metal hilts.
• the wire leads will need to be longer and the PCB could get a bit complicated to fit properly without risk of damage.
- The hitchhiker (this is my favorite so far as it's simple and doesn't actually rely on being flexible)
The circuit is just small enough to fit between the pro mini pins so could easily just be glued to the underside of the fx PCB in an open spot and wired to the fx board from there.