but then you have to have something now like a sleeve clip or retention clip to hold the center of the 2 batts tight together. No?
I was expecting them to "pop" up due to the tab pressure as they do sometimes but the cells stayed in the holder pretty well as it happens.
that will save a cm or so tho. i thought about it. i also thought about printing a custom holder with retension tabs for both batts, and just rape the metal connections parts from the batt holders to epoxt into the ends. that is a RAD costume by the way! Sweet. plus a good looking lady can sell water in a rain storm!
The sled is a neat idea actually but if you have the power to make it any shape you want, why not make holes for the pins to go through and tab retention slots like the holders?
I have the datasheet for these holders which has all the measurements, if it's not too big it should be attached below.
I understand it will not work in PVC. i am a 1" PVC hater. if you are gonna go cheap, then do it all the way and buy a walmart lightsaber $9 clearance, and pull its guts for the speaker, sound and LED button. add a mosfet, and LED, and 3 1.2v NiMH and your fave LED,.. done. cheap done cheap, and done cheap right. Cheaper than an arduino and WT buy about $25 me thinks.
All this arduino WT talk for PVC, im my mind is like slamming a Corvette Engine into a Cobalt. sure, you can talk about it, and maybe even do it... but you could just buy the corvette. Do saber builders really not have the $95 to buy the TCSS parts? If not? then it is by far cheaper, and VERY VIABLE to use the Hasbro method.A
Methinks there has been a slight misunderstanding.
The 1" deal is all down to the stock alu tubing I use to scratch build some of my saber with. To make my life a bit easier in the workshop, I use a 30mm OD x 25mm ID tube for the main body as it's ID is the same size as the poly blades so also doubles as the blade seat. I then sleeve the main body with 30mm ID tubes of varying thickness (usually up to 34mm as its hard to find thicker tubing with the same ID) to make the emitter shrouds and/or other hilt details and other parts.
Having the board fit a 25mm hole also doesn't leave anyone out.
there is also 1 1/4" PVC, how come no one uses that? too fat on the OD?
When I started out making sabers, I only ever used 1 1/4" PVC:
I only have WIP shots of the silver ones but the blue one turned out like this: