Arduino OLED display wont show Text

Hello, I was working on a clock using a OLED display with the DS3231, and a OLED SSD1306 128X64

When I run my code, it wont show the text on the screen, but it works fine for the other example sketches,

#include <OLED_I2C.h>
#include <RTClib.h>

RTC_DS3231 rtc;
OLED  myOLED(SDA, SCL);

char daysOfTheWeek[7][12] = {"Sunday", "Monday", "Tuesday", "Wednesday", "Thursday", "Friday", "Saturday"};

void setup() {
  // put your setup code here, to run once:
  Serial.begin(9600);

  delay(3000); // wait for console opening

  if (! rtc.begin()) {
    Serial.println("Couldn't find RTC");
    while (1);
  }

  if (rtc.lostPower()) {
    Serial.println("Power loss detected, Datetime unreliable");
    Serial.println("Initiating Boot up Sequence");
    // following line sets the RTC to the date & time this sketch was compiled
    rtc.adjust(DateTime(F(__DATE__), F(__TIME__)));
    // This line sets the RTC with an explicit date & time, for example to set
    // January 21, 2014 at 3am you would call:
    // rtc.adjust(DateTime(2014, 1, 21, 3, 0, 0));
  }
  else {
    Serial.println("Initiating Boot up Sequence");
  }


  if (!myOLED.begin(SSD1306_128X64)) {
    while (1);  // In case the library failed to allocate enough RAM for the display buffer...
  }
}

void loop() {
  // put your main code here, to run repeatedly:
  /*
    DateTime now = rtc.now();

    //Store the current date in integers
    int CurrentDay = now.day();
    int CurrentMonth = now.month();
    int CurrentYear = now.year();

    //Store the current time in integers
    int CurrentHour = now.hour();
    int CurrentMinute = now.minute();
    int CurrentSecond = now.second();
  */
  myOLED.clrScr();
  myOLED.print("Hello World", LEFT, 0);
  myOLED.update();
 
}

I am using the OLED_i2C library by rinky dink electronics
It does not give any errors, and I am using a arduino pro mini.

Thanks

OK, that was your post number 37 and you have been here a while, so you should know the rules here by now.

So the code you have posted is the code that does not work. Well, you need to show us code which does work, so we can examine the differences.

That it does not give any errors merely means that the code compiles, but does not help with the problem.

I was working on it yesterday, and I seemed to have gotten it to work after a long time, I think it was just being weird, since I tried copy pasting the example code into the program, and it seemed to finally work. I think it was since I didnt give a specified font to use, but that shouldnt have caused any trouble.
Sorry for not including enough information. I have not actually used this forum very much, and i only have posted 2 questions. I will try to do this next time.
Few more questions, I am planning on powering the arduino pro mini with a 3.7v lipo battery, and am tight on space. I accidentally bought the 5v version. and want to know if I could still use the lipo without having to get more components. Whats the difference between raw and VCC?
Thanks,

The raw pin will regulate the incoming voltage; the vcc will not.

That's not explaining it in a terribly useful fashion!

The "RAW" pin is the input to a tiny little regulator on board which is not particularly useful since it has minimal heatsinking and will overheat and (hopefully) shut down if asked to regulate more than a few tens of milliamps.

The output of the regulator goes to the "VCC" pin which is the main 5 V power rail of the device, usually where you feed power in from a 5 V regulated power supply.

Now the ATmega328 chip will operate down to a quite low voltage, but may not operate down to 3.3 V with a 16 MHz clock crystal. The 3.3 V version has an 8 MHz crystal.

To operate from a battery, you do not use a regulator (which only wastes power anyway). Your 3.7 V Li-Po may not operate the 16 MHz version reliably. If you use a 3.3 V/ 8 MHz version, this will generally be fitted with a 3.3 V regulator to which you probably should not apply 3.7 or more Volts to its output - and you do not apply 3.7 V to the input as you will lose too much voltage anyway.

So you are a little stuck. You really want an 8 MHz version of the Pro Mini - that is, with an 8 MHZ resonator - and if it has a 3.3 V regulator fitted, you need to carefully remove the regulator. If you want extended battery life, you will want to use Sleep mode on the MCU and remove the "pilot" LED from the Pro Mini.