last time want to make my ardunio pro mini. =( =(
i am use this configurasion :
Arduino Pro or Pro Mini (5V, 16 MHz) w/ ATmega328
menu.cpu.pro.16MHzatmega328=ATmega328 (5V, 16 MHz)
menu.cpu.pro.16MHzatmega328.upload.maximum_size=30720
menu.cpu.pro.16MHzatmega328.upload.speed=57600
menu.cpu.pro.16MHzatmega328.bootloader.low_fuses=0xFF
menu.cpu.pro.16MHzatmega328.bootloader.high_fuses=0xDA
menu.cpu.pro.16MHzatmega328.bootloader.extended_fuses=0x05
menu.cpu.pro.16MHzatmega328.bootloader.file=atmega/ATmegaBOOT_168_atmega328.hex
menu.cpu.pro.16MHzatmega328.build.mcu=atmega328p
menu.cpu.pro.16MHzatmega328.build.f_cpu=16000000L
and this is my configuration fusebit : LOW: 0xFF / HIGH: 0xDA
for fist upload program (blinking LED 13) succesfull but when i want to upload again (second upload) i have same error
like this , avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00
cronologi :
ATMEGA 328 <-- flash bootloader (ATmegaBOOT_168_atmega328.hex)
atmega 328 --> fist upload program ( led 13) success
atmega 328 --> second upload fail/error:avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00 :0
atemga328 --> third upload error same with second upload :0
i am tray to reflash bootloader atmega328.but error same :~
for fist upload program with arduino IDE work fine..but second upload error
Pro mini has no USB interface.
How are you connecting to the pro mini ?
And did you check the com port setting in IDE is still valid ?
Sometimes you need to add a capacitor in order to have the necessary reset.
You could also press and hold the reset button, and release it at the moment you see the IDE is ready compiling and will start the upload.
atmega 328 --> second upload fail/error:avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00 smiley-mad
Unlike UNO, the ProMini requires you to PRESS RESET immediately when the compiling message switches to uploading. If can be tricky until you get the timing correct.
mrburnette:
Unlike UNO, the ProMini requires you to PRESS RESET immediately when the compiling message switches to uploading. If can be tricky until you get the timing correct.
For the sake of clarity, this applies only if you have a crappy usb->serial cable that doesn't utilize the dtr signal. I have a cheap ebay clone and an FTDI usb->serial converter (combined cost: $10 australian, inc delivery) These work just fine - no fiddling with the reset button required. I could've had a usb->serial converter for $2 if I felt like playing the whole reset-button 'can I time it just right this time' game.
Oooh! Like me. You won't be welcome here then, considered a traitor!
enhzflep:
and an FTDI usb->serial converter (combined cost: $10 australian, inc delivery) These work just fine - no fiddling with the reset button required. I could've had a usb->serial converter for $2 if I felt like playing the whole reset-button 'can I time it just right this time' game.
Or if you get one of the cheap ones with six pins and correct the foul-up that the goose who faked the board design made by bringing out the RST (reset) line from the chip instead of the RTS, (Ready To Send) by cutting the track and jumpering it (with a bit of Biceflux enamelled wire) to the actual RTS breakout.
