Arduino standalone does nothing

[vampire_killer]

There's the schematic of my arduino standalone montage.

The problem is: it does nothing. The atmega used runs the blink code in the arduino, but not on the standalone montage. Could there be any other problems related to this except by the correct upload of the bootloader and code and correct montage??

[PaulRB]

@vampire_killer

There's the schematic of

No, that's a Breadboard wiring diagram. A schematic is something different.

@vampire_killer

The atmega used runs the blink code in the arduino

You mean when you plug the atmega into the empty socket of an Uno R3?

@vampire_killer

but not on the standalone montage

By "standalone montage" you mean breadboard?

There are no bypass capacitors. They should be 0.1uF ceramic type and you can put one on each of the breadboard power rails, close as possible to the red Vcc wires. Better still, if they will fit, you can connect them into the breadboard holes right next to the Vcc & ground pins of the atmega.

[vampire_killer]

Thank you for the corrections. I'll try to add those bypass capacitors.

Yes. It works on the empty socket of the Arduino Uno

Yes. By that I mean that it doesn't work on the breadboard.

[runaway_pancake]

The crystal should be right there with pins 9 and 10 (maybe diagonally, to fit).
You may not need those 18pF (whatever value) capacitors with it either - since the contacts have capacitance of their own (adding more, as it were, may hinder operation).

PE --
adding image

[herbschwarz]

Check the reset pin voltage. It should not be at 0 volts.

[PaulRB]

@runaway_pancake

adding image

Tut tut, no bypass caps there either!

[Dave_Lowther]

@herbschwarz

Check the reset pin voltage. It should not be at 0 volts.

Good point. @vampire_killer Those switches typically have pairs of pins shorted together. If reset is connected to ground due to that reason, rotate the switch 90 degrees.

[PaulRB]

@Dave_Lowther

rotate the switch 90 degrees

Alternatively, use one diagonally opposite pair of pins only:

[vampire_killer]

I checked the reset pin. It has VCC voltage

[JohnRob]

And the capacitors for the crystal should go directly to the ground pin (as close as possible). Should not be connecting the the ground strip on the BB.

[JohnRob]

You might consider using an ATTiny 84a. It has a built in clock and requires only a bypass capacitor to run properly.

[runaway_pancake]

@JohnRob

And the capacitors for the crystal should go directly to the ground pin (as close as possible).

Yes, just like in the picture - despite the glaring bypass cap omission [dramatic chord playing].

[JohnRob]

I was more thinking of not going to the "ground strip" but jumping right to the open ground "sockets" right next to the chip ground pin.

I wasn't directing my post at you just trying to add to your good advice.

[TomGeorge]

Hi, @vampire_killer
Have you tested your LED?
Have you got the LED in the correct way?

Tom..

[Dave_Lowther]

@vampire_killer

my arduino standalone

I got fed up of counting pins and checking their function, so I annotated the layout drawing.

I can't spot any wiring mistakes, but there are some layout improvements to be made and bypass capacitor(s) to be added.
Others have already mentioned some of the following points

1. Have a 100nF ceramic bypass (aka decoupling) capacitor, connected between Vcc and GND, as close as possible to Edit: pins 7 and 8 (previously was wrong saying 6 and 7).
2. Move the crystal and associated capacitors nearer to pins 9 and 10.
3. It would also be good to have a 100uF electrolytic between Vcc and GND on the bottom power rais.

What else could be wrong?:

4. Confirm 328p still works correctly when put back in Uno and flashes the built in LED on pin 13. This is just in case it's been damaged whilst on the breadboard.
5. Confirm the 328P is in the right way round. Sorry it's so obvious, but I recently was doing remote help for someone with a 555 problem and it was due to the chip being in the wrong way round
6. Check the LED is the right way round
7. Check the capacitors used for the crystal are 22pF
8. Check the crystal is 16MHz
9. Confirm Vcc is 5V
10. Check continuity of all points that should be connected. Breaks in breadboard tracks, and faulty sockets, are not uncommon (depending on the quality of the breadboard). Also measure the resistance of the series resistor.

[TomGeorge]

Hi, @vampire_killer

Can you post some images of your project?
So we can see your component layout.

Thanks.. Tom...

[vampire_killer]

That's the best I can do fskjgfsonvcfbfu

The only difference from the first image is that the crystal and correspondent capacitors are connected directly to the atmega pins, cause I had some issues when uploading the bootloader with the original configuration

The LED, Atmega and push button are in the correct orientations.

I am supplying 6v from 4 alkaline batteries

[TomGeorge]

Hi, @vampire_killer
Thanks for the image.

Is that orange jumper supposed to connect both positive (red) power bus rails?

Have you measured the power supply at the IC pins, that is Vcc and gnd pins?

Tom...

[runaway_pancake]

How are those capacitors marked?
Did you try not using them?

@vampire_killer

I am supplying 6v from 4 alkaline batteries

Probably enough to kill it.

+5 or Bust

[vampire_killer]

It worked!

It worked magically while trying to measure the Vcc and gnd pins. I think that the accomodation of the rails were missing it.

In my defense, I measured the power supply to the correspondent wires of Vcc and gnd, and it had the expect voltage. The thing is that when measuring the voltage directly on Vcc and gnd rails, it magically started working

Thank you @TomGeorge and thank you all!