3 minutes after my arduino started executing my simple program (turn on and off 3 LEDs, and 2 lasers ) it stopped swiching on and off the components. Now it is frozen , and the ON and LED - LEDs are turned on.
I cant restart the arduino, I also cant upload a new scatch.
stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 10 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
I tried hard reseting the arduino (connected RES and GND), but still no luck. Its just frozen, and i dont know how to fix it.
Just for the records, the manufacturer of my UNO is chinese.
How can i fix my board ?
const int bel = 3;
const int zut = 5;
const int pla = 6;
const int crv = 10;
void dimer(int var) {
for (int a = 0; a<256 ; a++ ){
analogWrite(var , a);
delay(6);
}
for (int a = 255; a>=0 ; a-- ){
analogWrite(var , a);
delay(6);
}
}
Disconnect everything from the board. With it on USB power, press reset. Does the L light flash? If not, either the bootloader is not present (which can be ruled out by the fact that the board once worked), or the board is damaged.
Damage to the power supply circuitry on a clone will often manifest as the opamp (8 pin smd package) blowing, taking out power supply switching and the L led (which is buffered with the other half of the opamp so the LED doesn't load the pin). Frequently the regulator is also trashed when this happens, but not always. The opamp fails to a near shorted state, drawing a few hundred mA and getting hot.
On official boards, this will often take out the 16u2 usb interface chip as well.
Either way, the '328p may or may not also be damaged.
When i connect the UNO to any power supply, the ON and LED are always turned on.
Nothing is blinking. The 328P is VERY HOOOT when i touch it! My adapter is 12V - 2A.
I already ordered 2 new UNO clones from the chinese supplier, but i will have to wait 20 days.
My question are :
Why did this happen ? Because I dont want to make the same mistake (if there was any) on a new board. So please look at the circuit schematic. (the 5v and GND for the lasers are reversed on the schematic, my fault. I connected them properly.)
Is there any cheep way to repair my UNO ?
Should i throw it now when its not working ? Can i salvage anything from it ?
How much current is the laser consuming when working ?
I'm using an acrylic case for my UNO, maybe the case can make some problem..... I have no idea, just asking ...
That looks like you are running everything off the Arduinos power rail.
Whilst probably OK for the LED's I would be very wary of using any lasers from that power rail.
More inclined to run them off a seperate supply.
Thats why I asked how much current is the laser drawing I found that it needs around 25-30 mA to operate.
Than again, i was powering 1 LED and 2 Lasers simultaneously.
If you look at the code, the LED's were running one at the time.
1 LED (25 mA) + 2 * Laser (30 mA) = 85mA - thats how much current was going through the rail.
And 700 mA is the maximum recommended current an Arduino can deliver.
ballscrewbob thanks for the replay
I wish i knew how the hell I screwed the Arduino, so that i dont repeat the same mistake .
Thats great for the switching side but what does the laser module itself draw as that is a seperate figure from the switching side.
Switching current + laser LOAD current at full power = 30mA + ??...There are two numbers involved there.
BTW dont use the lasers output eg 5mW as a load current.
Lasers also often need CONSTANT CURRENT which is why you see so many driver boards for sale when you get into the higher laser powers.
If in doubt allow a little extra current as some devices may have a slight surge at the switch on period.
if you are powering the Arduino from a USB 2.0 port there is a nominal 500mA limit.
"Each pin can handle a max of 40mA" - does it apply to the 5V pin or only the digital and analog I/O pins ? Because I think the 5V rail can deliver much more, correct me if I'm wrong.
I found that the higher the input voltage, the lower amount of current can be delivered to the 5V rail.
When i plug the 2.1mm barel (12V , 2A) in my (broken) Arduino , the 328p is extremly hot, I'm sure its fried.
So for the third time I would like to say that i would be grateful if anyone give me a hint on why i blown away my board, so that i dont repeat the same mistake :' (
5v pin can go up to 500mA off USB. Something less than that off an external power supply on Vin/barrel jack due to heat from the regulator (depending on voltage supplied).
The sort of failure you're reporting is rather dramatic - usually overloading pins isn't fatal (often it doesn't even have any immediate effect, other than less current than you expect being delivered) or just blows the pin. Could you have done something like connected the power backwards, or let the 12v get into the '328p?
Not with an acrylic case, plastic is non-conductive.
There have been some issues with poorly designed shields that short against the USB connector, though...
Maybe a short could trash the regulator (though it usually won't) - but I don't see how that would blow the chip itself which seems to have happened. That's like, almost always excess voltage on an I/O pin (voltage needs to stay between Gnd and Vcc), power connected backwards. Something like that.
Some of the KY-008 modules from China are wrongly labled on the pins.
Some even use a third pin as the on/off signal which can be driven by PWM.
You may want to check for a path on your unused pin with a multimeter in case it does have a function.
Many Chinese suppliers are known to use module codes on thier own (different) modules that are from other suppliers.
The KY series modules are very prone to that with some of the same PCB's being used for multiple sensor modules. That is most often seen by blank pads where other components for other modules would be placed.
I found that it needs around 25-30 mA to operate.