Hi, i dont have FTDI but i have this ;http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-To-RS232-TTL-CH340G-Converter-Module-Adapter-STC-replace-Pl2303-CP2102-M71-/291297583731 can i program pro mini with this converter ?
You need the DTR signal (or RTS).
Perhaps you can solder a wire to the CH340G for the DTR signal.
This one has DTR : www.ebay.com/itm/381101592840
Those modules have often 3.3V signals. A DTR of 3.3V is sometimes not enough to reset the Arduino board.
This board can select between 3.3V and 5V : https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9716
Some press the reset button and click upload at the very right moment to upload a sketch without DTR signal. But I have never been able to do that, not even once.
The trick is to hold down the reset button and release it when the IDE changes from compiling to uploading. For a first-time Pro Mini user, it is probably best to solder a 6 pin male header on the Pro Mini FDTI programming pins, and get an FTDI basic adapter such as the one from Sparkfun that Peter_n gave the link to, or a clone of it from eBay. You'll notice the FTDI basic has a female header on it, and the pin arrangement is such that you can plug it directly onto a Pro Mini. That would be the easy way.
Thank you it is working 
i soldered 13pin DTR.
If anyone need 340g datasheet i attached.
ch340g-datasheet.pdf (202 KB)
dmjlambert:
The trick is to hold down the reset button and release it when the IDE changes from compiling to uploading. For a first-time Pro Mini user, it is probably best to solder a 6 pin male header on the Pro Mini FDTI programming pins, and get an FTDI basic adapter such as the one from Sparkfun that Peter_n gave the link to, or a clone of it from eBay. You'll notice the FTDI basic has a female header on it, and the pin arrangement is such that you can plug it directly onto a Pro Mini. That would be the easy way.
Oh i tryied press reset button yeah it works it is simple, i will use this thank you
Well done
When I solder a wire to a pcb board, I use hot glue (also called hot snot) to prevent that it might break.
Pressing reset is simple ? Hmmm, not in my world.
Auto reset with DTR is much better. I think the manual reset timing is easier with some bootloaders. Some bootloaders have a very short window of opportunity to start the upload.
Yeah, I have a bunch of those, with lead connected to the DTR pin. While you're at it, make sure the USB connector is firmly attached - sometimes the "ears" on the side that attach it firmly to the board aren't soldered (the metal thing has a lot of thermal mass, compared to a pin, so it's not surprising that it wouldn't be soldered reliably by a sloppy wave soldering. I can't really complain - at a buck a pop, it's a miracle of technology that these things work at all)
Be careful about the chip's orientation! The ones I have have the chip rotated 180 degrees, but otherwise very similar looking layout.
Those adapters have a jumper to select 5v or "3.3" (which is actually 5v minus 2 diode drops ~_~ yup, those two diodes are in series. God forbid they use a regulator to get the 3.3...). But you need to have that jumper there. I soldered the Vcc wire onto the bottom of the Vcc pin, so I could still use the jumper (at least after I thought of it - I have a few that are just hardwired to 5v)
dmjlambert:
Auto reset with DTR is much better. I think the manual reset timing is easier with some bootloaders. Some bootloaders have a very short window of opportunity to start the upload.
Yes, they intentionally make it short, because that time it's spending diddling about in the bootloader is time the user is spent waiting for the device to start running the sketch. Sometimes this is troublesome, so the ideal time for the bootloader to wait is the minimum required for DTR reset to work reliably.
I using with soldered cable at now but it is not looking good so,I will order FTDI thanks for all
The reset button trick works with slow booter bootloaders, like the duemilanove or the diecimilla. Its easy to hit the correct timing.
Here's the one I use with a Pro Mini. It has all of the RS232 signals available and many of the chip I/O pins. It is also 3v3 and 5v0 jumper selectable.
As far as I know, every FTDI chip on Ebay is counterfeit 
Could this be the only one that has the real FTDI chips ?
I buy FTDI modules from mouser.com and FTDI Basic with micro USB connector from www.tinyosshop.com
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/MikroElektronika/MIKROE-483/?qs=%2fha2pyFadugsEwyLV5fFyIWdPbushEDhRSvnBE0ODG8%3d
Just say no to ICs from ebay.
Peter_n:
As far as I know, every FTDI chip on Ebay is counterfeit
Could this be the only one that has the real FTDI chips ?
Ive bought some ftdi with real ftdi from hong kong. I jus make sure the description says ftdi and not ch341 or other chip, unless the ftdi is not a genuine ftdi but the label of my chip says ftdi.
I always go with CH340G's specifically because I have no way to know that FTDI chips aren't counterfeit (ie, they say FTDI on them, but FTDI's drivers detect that they're counterfeit and bricks them).
I've had mysterious problems making even FTDI chips from reputable vendors (like Adafruit) work correctly, which I presume aren't counterfeit. Meanwhile, CH340G chips just work.
I dobnt know if mine are counterfeit but the driver works correctly, I use an old version of the driver which comes with the arduino ide 1.0.5