ATMEL Mega1284P evaluation board avalible

We can try a few things. Yes we can try to hand solder the micro-SD socket. We might be able to reflow the mocro-SD socket first, then flip it over and reflow the rest, with suface tension holding the bottom part on. I don't think that will be feasible, though. Because reflowing the top measn using the stencil and squeegie to apply the paste and I doubt we can do that with the micro_SD part applied.

Maybe the trick will be to reflow the top, then use the hot air rework station to apply the bottom parts. As I think about it that might be best, although we'll need to be careful to apply just enough heat in just the area we need, so the parts on the other side stay put.

As for the order of parts, most recomendations I have read are to put the big ones on first followed by smaller ones. I have found with only a few exceptions, it does not make much difference. My board has a few spots where that is better though. I make a checklist, have an enalrged gerber next to me, use a few magnifiers and its off to the races! The checklist is key though.

I appreciate the tips and ideas on applying parts. I have been able to solder since my teens so, over 20 years but, I know that I still have many things to learn. Recently, I have been soldering a lot and I have been finding little things that I wish I would have known in the past. :astonished: Some of my past work looks very sloppy compared to now.

Mark

Thanks Skyjumper. Next weekend going to work for you? Can you send me your checklist? I'll make one up for my board, and some expanded pictures also.

Just stumbled onto this and it looks very interesting. I was looking to start using the 1284p so if i could get it in an arduino compatible board that would be great. I will keep an eye on this thread and hope all the assembly goes well.

Thanks Subterranean, I am looking forward to attempt ass'y on Saturday.

..nice boards.. I would assembly the very first pcb manually, and in a step by step manner. In case of errors it could be difficult to debug when fully assembled. E.g. start with power, ftdi, 1284p and so on.. and measure the voltages, currents.. just a hint.. Pito

pito: ..nice boards.. I would assembly the very first pcb manually, and in a step by step manner. In case of errors it could be difficult to debug when fully assembled. E.g. start with power, ftdi, 1284p and so on.. and measure the voltages, currents.. just a hint.. Pito

I usually do this with any new board. It avoids any unnecessary hair pulling when something is not working!

Not sure quite how to do that with surface mount. Need to stencil on the solder paste for the Rs, Cs, LEDs, USB connector, SD connector, and surface mount ICs, especially the FTDI chip.

:) ..you need a flux only.. there is nothing on the board one can not solder manually.. just put a lot of flux (i.e. amtech 223), place the ftdi or other chips/r/c and solder the pins.. it is easy.. I am soldering 0.5mm 64pin chips - no issues by today.. P. 8)

You must have much younger eyes than I do :D I stopped to get some +3.0 reading glasses on the way home so I can see the little parts more clearly tomorrow.

Still trying to get my bootloading capability back, I seem to have lost the touch, see this thread, writing things as I go. http://arduino.cc/forum/index.php/topic,67129.msg494716.html#msg494716

I am using 3+ as well :astonished: purchased in a supermarket for this exact purpose.. Important is not to solder your nose in as well.. :stuck_out_tongue_closed_eyes:

First pair of "Bobuino"s are assembled & minimally programmed! Spent a couple hours with my good friend Skyjumper, my son, and wife, got a little assembly line kind of thing going, me putting down solder paste & handing out parts, son placing parts on 1st and wife on 2nd , Skyjumper guiding us along in our first ever surface mount assembly project and driving the oven, group effort to find & fix the solder shorts on the FTDI chips. Skyjumper got them bootloaded for me via ISP (I somehow managed to not bring a mini-USB cable out of all the toys we took down, only had regular USB and the large square kind between us). Time to figure out how to do that with my tools, and write some sketches to show everything works now ...

Skyjumper, thank you again for all the help, and your wife for lunch!, and letting us use your tools.

Nice progress. Good luck on the alfa software/firmware tests. Suspect there will be a need for a nice single zip file that includes all the nessesary file changes and additions and a read.me file for installation instructions.

Lefty

Thanks Lefty. That's what I'm thinking also.

Beautiful job on the boards! Way to go!

Mark

Thanks :)

Very impressive looking boards you got there!

Thanks Mowcius. Finally got enough software pieces in place late last night that I can now select the board, compile, and make Blink - tho not on the pin I expected. I think I am using the Sanguino-based pinout, http://www.crossroadsfencing.com/pins_duino644.cxx I recreated it as pins_duino.1284.cxx (just added some comments, no actual changes). I'm not sure how to follow the assemblage path to see that it gets used. I have the L LED on the SCK line, yet I need to toggle D15 instead of D13 to make it turn on/off. So I'm thinking I don't understand the software setup fully yet. Going to play some more today, see what the other pin assignments ended up as.

Here's what I want it to be, not sure how to make it so.

Ok, here's what I've figured out by working 0-31 thru Blink: PB0-PB7 are working as D8-D15 >> wanted D4-D13 PD0-PD7 are working as D24-D31 >> wanted D0-D3, PD4, D8,D9, PD7 PC0-PC7 are working as D16-D23 >> hadn't assigned #s PA0-PA7 are working as D0-D7 >> wanted D14-D19

What file do I change so that a shield expecting D0-D19 gets D0-D19?

.. try pins_arduino.c .. the pins are referenced by their position (the order) within

digital_pin_to_port_PGM[] digital_pin_to_bit_mask_PGM[] digital_pin_to_timer_PGM[]

P.

PS: in case you want to use sdfat lib you have to modify sd2PinMap.h (add the 1284p defs, SPI port defs, e.g. "BahBots" like)..