ATTiny85. IDE responds:"Invalid device signature, define PAGEL and BS2 signals"

I am trying to program ATTin85 using Arduino
I used the hardware support file from "High-Low Tech"
here Index of /

With this schematic:

I downloaded the ArduinoISP sketch on the Uno board, then chose "ATTiny85 internal 8Mhz" with "Arduino as ISP"
then tried burning the Bootloader and tried uploading a sketch but the IDE gives:
"
avrdude.exe: please define PAGEL and BS2 signals in the configuration file for part ATtiny85avrdude.exe: Yikes! Invalid device signature.
Double check connections and try again, or use -F to override this check.
"

so I tried to using avrdude from CMD
"avrdude -P COM5 -b 19200 -c avrisp -p t85 -v -e -U flash:w:worked.cpp.hex"

so it gives

"avrdude: please define PAGEL and BS2 signals in the configuration file for part
ATtiny85
avrdude: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructions

Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.07s

avrdude: Device signature = 0xffffff
avrdude: Yikes! Invalid device signature.
Double check connections and try again, or use -F to override
this check.

avrdude done. Thank you."
I tried another ATTiny85 chip and got the same result!

This you can ignore:

avrdude.exe: please define PAGEL and BS2 signals in the configuration file for part ATtiny85

It is only relevant to parallel programmers which you aren't using.

This is the issue:

Yikes!  Invalid device signature

Which means there is likely a problem with your connections which means avrdude can't read the chip.

I have checked the resistance of every single wire and disconnected and connected everything back, like 5 times! still getting the same thing.

I just used a different Arduino board, still the same result.

I've used the exact same instructions to program an Attiny45 using an Uno with no problems. I am running my Attiny at 1Mhz which I believe is the default.

Maybe you should try 1Mhz just to see if that works. If so it would suggest the fuses are not being set properly for 8Mhz - but I'm afraid I have no idea why or what to do.

...R

Tried 1 Mhz still not working..

0xffffff means bad wiring - it hasn't managed to get a real device signature off the chip.

fungus:

[quote author=L. DaVinci link=topic=191764.msg1417202#msg1417202 date=1381004176]
avrdude: Device signature = 0xffffff
avrdude: Yikes! Invalid device signature.

0xffffff means bad wiring - it hasn't managed to get a real device signature off the chip.

[/quote]
I checked the resistance between the pins of the ATTiny and the ends of the jumpers that are in the Arduino.
I also used a different set of jumpers, different board, different chip. No luck at all ~_~

It could mean that you have incorrectly programmed the fuses so that it requires an external oscillator. If you are using ArduinoISP, you can modify the sketch to output an 8MHz square wave from one of the PWM pins which you can then feed in to the XTAL1 pin of the attiny.

Add these lines to the setup() of ArduinoISP:

  pinMode(3,OUTPUT);
  TCCR2A = _BV(COM2B0) | _BV(WGM21);
  TCNT2 = 0;
  OCR2A = 0;
  TIMSK2 = 0;
  TCCR2B = _BV(CS20);

Then connect Digital Pin 3 of the Arduino to Pin2 of the Attiny85.

same result :confused:

I know this is probably a stupid comment, but are you sure you have the Attiny the right way round?

Have you checked that there is 5v and Gnd at the appropriate Attiny pins?

I think there is advice in the ArduinoISP file about using LEDs to monitor the uploading - may be useful. I did see a web page about this (the LEDS) somewhere, but I can't remember. Google might find it for you.

...R

well here is an image of the setup

on the upper arm of the Arduino the (yellow,green,blow,red) are connected to (13,12,11,10)
on the lower part (red,orange,white) are (reset,5V,GND)
I did a continuity check on from the legs of the ATTiny to arduino, and also checked the voltage, and changed the bread-board just now.

No image :slight_smile:

...R

Are these chips new? Is there any way they could have been programmed before?

Where are they from? The markings on the chip in that image don't look like my Tiny85s. Can you post a close-up of the chip?

fungus:
Are these chips new? Is there any way they could have been programmed before?

Where are they from? The markings on the chip in that image don't look like my Tiny85s. Can you post a close-up of the chip?

Yes they are new. I got them from eBay 10 months ago, but never used them before.
Here is a close up.

I normally use Opera but I have also looked at this Thread in Firefox and there is no sign of any images from LDavinci.

But it appears some people can see them. If you are one of the lucky ones, what browser are you using?

...R

The Atmel logo looks wrong to me, the lines in the logo are far too thick and the rightmost of the two vertical lines in the 'm' doesn't go all the way to the top.

The writing is also far too white (that's what called my attention in the first place). I always had trouble getting the writing on Atmel chips to appear at all in photographs but yours is as clear as day. Notice that you can't read the writing on the Uno's ATMega328 in your first photograph - that's what I'd expect to see from that distance/angle.

The date codes are a bit weird. You say you bought them ten months ago but the date codes say 2005/2006.

All in all ... I'd say there's a good chance they're fakes. There might be nothing at all inside the chips.

Don't worry, it's happened to people like Sparkfun, too: https://www.sparkfun.com/news/350

Robin2:
I normally use Opera but I have also looked at this Thread in Firefox and there is no sign of any images from LDavinci.

But it appears some people can see them. If you are one of the lucky ones, what browser are you using?

...R

I think it is the server that I uploaded the photos to.
here are they on imageShack
The setup :

ATTiny Close-up:

fungus:
The Atmel logo looks wrong to me, the lines in the logo are far too thick and the rightmost of the two vertical lines in the 'm' doesn't go all the way to the top.

The writing is also far too white (that's what called my attention in the first place). I always had trouble getting the writing on Atmel chips to appear at all in photographs but yours is as clear as day. Notice that you can't read the writing on the Uno's ATMega328 in your first photograph - that's what I'd expect to see from that distance/angle.

The date codes are a bit weird. You say you bought them ten months ago but the date codes say 2005/2006.

All in all ... I'd say there's a good chance they're fakes. There might be nothing at all inside the chips.

Don't worry, it's happened to people like Sparkfun, too: https://www.sparkfun.com/news/350

How can I make sure that they are fake ?