best perboard?

So I've had a lot of problems with these perboards like these:

they are really cheap but the pads are really fragile and the copper has corroded after a few years. I'm trying to find perfboards that won't be as terrible as these.

does anyone know of good quality perfboards that are nice to work with but are cheaper than $10?

Try:

Avoid backelit boards.

tommyokie:
they are really cheap but the pads are really fragile and the copper has corroded after a few years. I'm trying to find perfboards that won't be as terrible as these.

Well of course it has! It is just plain copper, which corrodes. Tin also oxidises. Just a simple fact of life. Depends on the atmosphere in which you store them.

What you are looking for is boards made with a process called "ENIG". And the plated-through pad boards that 6v6gt cites are necessarily more robust (albeit not ENIG :grinning: ).

My experience is limited but the cheap boards work well for me. When using mostly THT components you don't need the copper so much. I bend legs of neighbor components so they form a "trace". I connect them directly with a solder so the contact never rely on the thin and fragile copper - in fact the role of the copper is only temporary for fixing the components and directing solder flow. A slight disadvantage of this board is that it is only single sided but I think it is hard to place components on both sides anyway (I mean THT components are on the non-copper side, SMD on the other and all the soldering is on the copper side - soldering between THT parts is difficult for me). And it is easier to cut the cheap boards.

The green through plated boards are still very cheap, and work so much nicer that I just ditched the cheap single sided ones that I had at the time (years ago). Too easy for the pads to get loose, much harder to get the solder to flow properly, and the green ones are in more than enough sizes that I usually don't bother to cut them, only if I just want a really little piece and they cut easy enough.

For building the boards I also use the parts' leads whenever possible. Saves work. KiCAD is my main assistant in the actual design and keeping track of what goes where, allows me to build the boards pretty compact and still error free and with limited cross-overs.

I only use perfboards when I can't get a set of PCBs from China fast enough.
I use JLCPCB, $2 for 5 boards. The only downside is that it takes up to six weeks to get the boards.

The project looks better and there's much less opportunity for errors. Here's some of my recent projects:

PCBs.jpg

(I just realized that all my PCBs are using the Wemos D1 Mini).

PCBs.jpg

thanks for the help!
I’m going to look for some green through-hole boards.

also, I know about jlcpcb but I want some perfboards to do testing or to finish a project without having to wait for shipping

do these look good?:

The main illustration is very misleading, showing a pile of assorted boards ranging from very large to very small. These, according to the very sparse description are very small boards. If you want to integrate a couple of modules/breakouts, you probably need some 7 x 9 (cm) or larger boards.

But, in principle, tinned, double sided 1.6mm FR4 boards (as at least illustrated) are vastly superior to singles sided, 1mm Bakelite/ phenolic paper boards with printed on copper pads.

SteveMann:
(I just realized that all my PCBs are using the Wemos D1 Mini).

And no surprise there!

As soon as you want WiFi, or more serious processing (more RAM in particular) , the WeMOS D1 Mini is the "goto", drop the Arduino. If you only need up to 4 I/O with WiFi (or even without), the ESP-01.

I prefer the perfboard with the plated through holes and square annular rings. I find it easier to make solder bridges with the square rings than the round rings.

I mainly use stripboard. I only use perfboard when I need to put components on both sides of the board.

SteveMann:
I use JLCPCB, $2 for 5 boards. The only downside is that it takes up to six weeks to get the boards.

The cheapest option for me is a registered mail for about $8. It is similar for USA and UK. Is there a way to get some slower cheaper shipping?

tommyokie:
do these look good?:
20pcs/lot 5x7 4x6 3x7 2x8cm Double Side Prototype Diy Universal Printed Circuit PCB Board Protoboard For Arduino|pcb board|double side prototypedouble sided protoboard - AliExpress

Use the link icon at the top of the reply window. (Example below.)

I bought a bunch of these from Aliexpress. I've never had a pad lift on these.

The cheap boards are made of SRBP aka paxolin (which is a composite related to bakelite), better ones are FR4 (a flame retardent glass-fibre). SRBP is easier to cut (FR4 blunts hacksaw blades quickly). FR4 is much tougher and stronger. Typically plated-through holes are seen only on FR4.