Hate to dissapoint you, but you can buy a laser printer for 40?, laminator for 15?, and if you can find a pcb manufacturer, you can get free pcb pieces (they call it a waste, because it's only let's say, 20x20cm, enugh for me 
), but anyway, after a few boards you'll se, photo boards are waaaay more expansive, and if not developed well (yes, it happens, a lot at the very beginning) you can throw it away...
Toner transfer is still cheaper, sory...
The toner density is not the same as the resolution. It's how thick (dense) the toner is applied to the paper.
I'm not saying it is. The problem is, how laser printing works. If you say to a printer, you want a draft printout (or as they call it "toner-save" function - not a feature for me though) the quality of the text might still be ok, but larger black areas will become gray, transparent, producing tiny holes on pcb. That's why you need "best" quality printout, to keep the GND signal without holes (usualy you fill the "rest" of the board with black, connected to GND). This was about density. The resolution is also important, as it is directly connected to how complex circuit are you still able to produce. My personal best was a 44pin chip, measuring 7x7mm (MAX9744) and that's not even easy to solder. Have done some ARM's and usb arduinos (with ftdi) but that's still fun.
btw, try making double sided pcb's using photo... how long does it take to get in right, the both sides? For me with toner, about 10 minutes...
Regards,
Peter