Better IR receiver for Robot Remote Control??

Projects General Guidance
1

Hi,
Can anyone suggest a better IR receiver for use on a robot? The robot looks like this:

The receiver is the simple one shown HERE.

The range is limited and not good -off-axis. Some more details HERE

Any suggestions welcomed!

2

I have a few different IR remote decoders and found the TSOP4838 to be the best for range, about 30 feet.
The transmitter will obviously play an important part in this.
I also us a library based on interrupts rather than using a timer.

Better put snow tires on that :wink:

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3

found the TSOP4838 to be the best for range,

]

Thanks! I added the spec sheet for that to my IR Info page HERE http://arduino-info.wikispaces.com/IR-RemoteControl on ArduinoInfo.Info

I better hurry up, there's only 2975 of them in stock at Digikey...

The transmitter I'm kind of committed to is this: Mainly because it has directional buttons and they're cheap.

But there could be a cool project with a Nano and case/buttons and high-power IR LED.

4

I have 8 of those keypads (NEC).
http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=317625.0

That transmitter works with the TSOP4838

Got my TSOP4838s from eBay.

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5

I wonder how you want to measure an IR transmission range for a turning robot. In indoor applications you may use the ceiling as the best reflector in any direction, but this won't work outdoors.

6

Hi,
I think the problem I am seeing is the off-axis sensitivity of the receiver. It is intended for pretty much-straight-on use. I need 360 degree operation.

WhatIf multiple receivers were used? How might they be connected.? I'm about out of Arduino pins (but could use "Analog" pins I guess..

Anyone seen receivers that are intended for 360 horizontal applications?

I'll try TSOP4838 in a couple of days when Digikey delivers..

7

Use a cone reflector from a camping light
http://boulderhackerspace.com/2013/09/03/member-project-of-the-week-hacking-a-bargain-led-lantern/

8

hi terry,

i am not a techo like above guys but i used Ultra, IR and voice command on my robot
and all three worked fine.
But when there is lot of heat inside house
my red led blinked (just to indicate IR) and robot would not move.
irrespective if the IR detects an object or not(i.e. an object close to IR sensor -set at 5 inchs),
if there is heat you will have a problem. I hope I am right. my solution - took out IR.

9

Here's someone who used an AND gate to merge the signals from four receivers together:

If you can find a receiver with an open-collector output you can just wire the outputs together. Any one going LOW will pull down the line. you need a pull-up resistor to keep it HIGH.

10

If you can find a receiver with an open-collector output you can just wire the outputs together. Any one going LOW will pull down the line. you need a pull-up resistor to keep it HIG

Thanks JW.. The TSOP4838 has an internal 33K pullup and I'll try 2 or 3 in wire-OR. Hmmm. Could maybe just use diodes to make a 3 or 4 input diode-transistor logic negative-OR gate. OMG I actually have a couple of antique DTL chips in my collection. But I need something EASY for newbies to do.

Use a cone reflector from a camping light

Now THERE's an idea! I'll be looking for something that can be used. Maybe carefully-shaped aluminum foil?? Hmmm...

I need something that's cheap and easy to duplicate as I want to show people who buy lots of my $45 robot kits how to do this... If there's some hacking and experimentation involved that's fine for most users. It works now if you kind of walk around near the robot (I know..It's just a remote-controlled vehicle in this mode, but I want to integrate this so that pushing "#" switches it to autonomous collision avoidance mode.) Actually, Club Electron in South Africa had over 50 of the kits and they did the first-pass IR remote control sketch.

DISCLAIMER: Mentioned stuff from my own shop...

11

I bet the diode-AND would work! Have a pull-up on the input pin and and put a diode between the pin and each receiver that allows the receiver to sink but not source current. That would let any of them pull the line low but none of them keep the line high. Cheap and simple.

12

Hi, Just got the TSOP4838s from Digikey; I will try both wire-OR by parallel a couple of outputs and also the diode-OR with a separate pullup resistor.

I'm either old enough or packrat enough to have some Germanium diodes with a low voltage drop...

13

From this discussion, it would appear that you can simply connect the outputs of TSOPs in parallel, without a diode OR gate.
https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=428269.0

14

It may help to measure the resistance between output and positive supply, in both directions. If the values are the same, and not incredibly high, they use internal pullup resistors.

It may be a good idea, though, to insert diodes, because in wired-and each output will have to pull down all pullup resistors, possibly exceeding the current driving capabilities of a single (active) output. Si and Ge diodes will not make a big difference to the logic levels, IMO.