I just bought HM10 but not familiar that it has ZS-040 baseplate/breakout.
I am not really sure for the term baseplate/breakout, but that was indicated on its board.
I think the module HM10 is what attached to this ZS-040.
Below is the exact board:
bluetooth 4.0
I am following the tutorial below to get started.
http://www.blueluminance.com/HM-10-as-iBeacon.pdf
I know that the tutorial only has HM10 but my board includes HM10+ZS-040, I am not sure if it is OK.
I end up not able to communicate with the board.
The LED on board is blinking(~1 blink per 2 seconds), but when I type AT on serial monitor on arduino IDE, it replies nothing/blank. I expect to have a response of OK.
BTW, I use below to connect the board to PC/USB:
USB_to_UART
May I ask for any help in verifying the version of FW for this board.
I plan to update the FW to make the board serve as iBeacon.
Thanks in advanced.
steiryx:
I think the module HM10 is what attached to this ZS-040.
That is correct. The ZS-040 backboard can take different bluetooth modules, and comes in different configurations. Yours is unusual in that it only has four pins.
I know that the tutorial only has HM10 but my board includes HM10+ZS-040, I am not sure if it is OK.
I end up not able to communicate with the board.
It should be fine. This is an Arduino forum, and backboards like that are the normal, and most sensible, way to use these bluetooth modules.
Yours is unusual in that it only has four pins.
Yes I also notice that. I saw others with 6 pins.
But for now my concern is to communicate with this current 4-pin boards.
Still I wasn't able to work "AT" command.
In that event, a 6-pin board would have been a better choice. I have never seen configuration instructions specific to the HM-10, but there is a swag of tutorials out there on configuring the HC-05 and I believe the HM10 is identical except that it has a 6-digit password. The most comprehensive and most up-to-date stuff is by Martyn Currey. The temporary power connection goes to the KEY pin. You might as well solder a pin in there.
In that event, a 6-pin board would have been a better choice.
I might solder the other pins to make it from 4 to 6 pins.
But for now what I only need is Vcc, Gnd, Rx, and Tx pins which are already soldered from HM10 module to ZS-040 backboard.
Still I cannot communicate with HM10 via AT command.
The most comprehensive and most up-to-date stuff is by Martyn Currey.
Thanks for this info, I will try to look for this.
steiryx:
But for now what I only need is Vcc, Gnd, Rx, and Tx pins which are already soldered from HM10 module to ZS-040 backboard.
Still I cannot communicate with HM10 via AT command.
That is because you don't know what you are doing. You don't "only need is Vcc, Gnd, Rx, and Tx pins " you also need to use the KEY pin to put the device into AT mode, hence my comment.
Thanks for this info, I will try to look for this.
Then you will know. It is all to do with the KEY pin.
You don't "only need is Vcc, Gnd, Rx, and Tx pins " you also need to use the KEY pin to put the device into AT mode, hence my comment.
Your remarks make it more confusing but highly appreciated.
The tutorial I referring only use those pins when using AT commands.
http://www.blueluminance.com/HM-10-as-iBeacon.pdf
Unless because of the ZS-040 backboard, it made it necessary.
Thanks for the informations, this is a great start as a help.
steiryx:
The tutorial I referring only use those pins when using AT commands.
OK, I think I could be wrong. It appears that that article only uses four pins to configure. It could be be that using only four pins is entirely legitimate and, while mine and every other HM-10 I have seen is on a backboard with six pins, at least one of them is redundant.
You may find that the HM-10 is in AT mode whenever it is not actually communicating to another device, i.e. no procedure is required to get it into AT mode, hence only four pins and no button switch. I see my HM-10 on ZS-040 has no button switch, while the HC-05 does.
In the light of this, and despite what I said, I believe you should steer clear of tutorials that address the HC-05.
The reason why you are not getting any joy may simply be the power supply. Yes the HM-10 is a 3.3v device, but the ZS-040 has on-board regulators and you will see it marked 3.6>6v on the back. The standard way to power these things when using an Arduino to configure it is thus from the 5v pin on Arduino. I know nothing about that USB device in the picture. I get the impression you are not using an Arduino to configure it, but merely the Arduino programming software. I know nothing about that and can't comment, but I suggest you confirm the power supply is kosher. If you don't have 5v on the ZS-040 already, you may be able to get it from the USB thingy.
I see my HM-10 on ZS-040 has no button switch, while the HC-05 does.
Yes I also notice that difference.
Yes the HM-10 is a 3.3v device, but the ZS-040 has on-board regulators and you will see it marked 3.6>6v on the back.
First I tried 3.3V, but when I notice the backboard voltage requirement, I changed it to 5V.
Both voltages blinks the ZS-040 power LED.
I took the supply from:
- External supply of 5v and connect the grounds of this supply to the GND of the UART module with USB.
- I also tried the supply from UART module.
Both made no difference on the result.
I beg to disagree that it can't be connected in serial monitor or teraterm.
Based on the description of the HM10 module, it can be configured as Master/Slave and can use AT command to set the baudrate.
steiryx:
First I tried 3.3V, but when I notice the backboard voltage requirement, I changed it to 5V.
Both voltages blinks the ZS-040 power LED.
If you see a LED, that means there is power. That doesn't mean the power is reliable, and if you have a 5v supply you should stick with it, particularly when the board says 3.6v minimum
I beg to disagree that it can't be connected in serial monitor or teraterm.
Based on the description of the HM10 module, it can be configured as Master/Slave and can use AT command to set the baudrate
I didn't say it can't be connected, I said I don't know anything about it, and can't comment. This is an Arduino forum. I use an Arduino to configure bluetooth. This also goes quite some way to explain why I don't know anything about that USB thing either.
I have looked a bit further into this and have concluded that
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There is no special procedure for configuring the HM-10. if it isn't talking to something, you just send AT commands. This implies that, while the command set is like the HC-05, the procedure is about the same as an HC-06. This sounds like a good idea.
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While your ZS-040 has only four pins, that is all it really needs. I assume yours is pretty new, and I guess they will all be like that eventually. The six-pin boards are probably old stock they are using up, and they were originally made for the HC-05.
I'm afraid none of this helps very much, you are essentially doing the right thing, and all I can suggest is to check the wiring:
Tx>Rx Rx>Tx 5v and all grounds connected.
- There is no special procedure for configuring the HM-10. if it isn't talking to something, you just send AT commands.
Ah I got you misunderstood.
Yeah I plan to use it in arduino but for now studying it on its own module first before putting in arduino uno.
Tx>Rx Rx>Tx 5v and all grounds connected.
Yes I got this in mind as mentioned in the tutorial.
I had the same problem and figured out the solution after some fiddling.
You need to solder 1k resistor to pin 23 (PIO 0). The other end of resistor goes to 3.3v to activate command mode. It is best to connect HM-10 with FTDI usb module for configuration purposes.
AT commands for this module is slightly different. Type AT+Help to obtain the list of AT commands.