Alright, first off I wanted to share this with you guys. So I’m in Hobart, and as I am trying to get this breadboard Arduino project off the ground, I got to the point where I wanted to just buy the FTDI interface form Jaycar, so I pop in and found they are selling them for $22.95. Yeah… look I knew I could find a real Arduino for about $30-$40. So I pocked around and picked up one of the official resellers inside of Australia flogging them off for $29.95 and shipping was $2. Yeah, look I maybe wanting to do get my own Arduino put together, but I am not forking out that much for a part. I ordered that Arduino.
It really dose shock me sometimes the price things are jacked up. So I also ordered a FTDI off eBay.
Disclaimer, now when I say I do not know what I am doing. I mean I have seen some YouTube video and printer some stuff out. So I mean, I tried it, it failed, so I am asking for help.
Now onto what this topic is all about.
This would be the forth verson of wiring, but to start with this IC has been burned with the Arduino Uno bootloader, not at my request, this was done at hacker space and I was shown it was working. It has the blink program loaded onto it.
First, that male USB port is a PL2303h, I have attached a capacitor to the IC and a pin so I can use it to program the Arduino. Its pretty much the same thing shown in the schematic. Right now it not attached to anything.
Now what I did, the power supply was supplying both 3.3 V and 5 V to either power rail, but it was over heating and only pumping out 3.3v. The 3.3v was on the side of the reset switch.
Pin 22 was connected to the positive and not negative voltage.
I had used a reset switch pulled form a 3G modem, but it was not acting as a switch, but as a direct link. At hacker space we have some switches that are used for Arduino projects, so I put one on my breadboard. The reset switch was connected to ground, but now it is connected to positive.
Please note, that while the link between pin 1 (reset) on the Ardiuno is not all that visible, there is a link to that resistor and switch.
The resistors on the LED and reset switch where wrong, I have switched them out with the correct ones, but I am using a 10k ohm resistor.
For the reset pin on the PL2303 can I plug in a cable right next to the ATmega IC pin 1 or do I need to plug it in after the 10k ohm resistor?
Now what has me freaked, is that the ATmega IC got hot and the LED is not blinking.
I have tested the reset switch with a LED and power away from the IC, now that works as it should and the LED on pin 19 works as it should.