Breadboard Arduino starter help?

Alright, first off I wanted to share this with you guys. So I’m in Hobart, and as I am trying to get this breadboard Arduino project off the ground, I got to the point where I wanted to just buy the FTDI interface form Jaycar, so I pop in and found they are selling them for $22.95. Yeah… look I knew I could find a real Arduino for about $30-$40. So I pocked around and picked up one of the official resellers inside of Australia flogging them off for $29.95 and shipping was $2. Yeah, look I maybe wanting to do get my own Arduino put together, but I am not forking out that much for a part. I ordered that Arduino.

It really dose shock me sometimes the price things are jacked up. So I also ordered a FTDI off eBay.


Disclaimer, now when I say I do not know what I am doing. I mean I have seen some YouTube video and printer some stuff out. So I mean, I tried it, it failed, so I am asking for help.

Now onto what this topic is all about.
This would be the forth verson of wiring, but to start with this IC has been burned with the Arduino Uno bootloader, not at my request, this was done at hacker space and I was shown it was working. It has the blink program loaded onto it.

First, that male USB port is a PL2303h, I have attached a capacitor to the IC and a pin so I can use it to program the Arduino. Its pretty much the same thing shown in the schematic. Right now it not attached to anything.

Now what I did, the power supply was supplying both 3.3 V and 5 V to either power rail, but it was over heating and only pumping out 3.3v. The 3.3v was on the side of the reset switch.

Pin 22 was connected to the positive and not negative voltage.

I had used a reset switch pulled form a 3G modem, but it was not acting as a switch, but as a direct link. At hacker space we have some switches that are used for Arduino projects, so I put one on my breadboard. The reset switch was connected to ground, but now it is connected to positive.

Please note, that while the link between pin 1 (reset) on the Ardiuno is not all that visible, there is a link to that resistor and switch.

The resistors on the LED and reset switch where wrong, I have switched them out with the correct ones, but I am using a 10k ohm resistor.

For the reset pin on the PL2303 can I plug in a cable right next to the ATmega IC pin 1 or do I need to plug it in after the 10k ohm resistor?

Now what has me freaked, is that the ATmega IC got hot and the LED is not blinking.

I have tested the reset switch with a LED and power away from the IC, now that works as it should and the LED on pin 19 works as it should.

Hi, I admire your setting up on a budget, well done.

I have tested the reset switch with a LED and power away from the IC, now that works as it should and the LED on pin 19 works as it should.

Does this mean that after getting IC hot that everything is now working, that is LED flashing and IC running cool?
If so then you were very lucky.. :cold_sweat:

Is there any other problem you are having, then let us know.

Tom...

TomGeorge:
Hi, I admire your setting up on a budget, well done.

I have tested the reset switch with a LED and power away from the IC, now that works as it should and the LED on pin 19 works as it should.

Does this mean that after getting IC hot that everything is now working, that is LED flashing and IC running cool?
If so then you were very lucky.. :cold_sweat:

Is there any other problem you are having, then let us know.

Tom...

No the problem is that when I have applied power the LED dose not flash, dose this mean I fried it or is it safe to connect this thing to a computer and see if it still is working?

Also, can anything I did, can it erase the IC's firmware?

boredtodeath:
The reset switch was connected to ground, but now it is connected to positive.

Why would you do that?

boredtodeath:
Please note, that while the link between pin 1 (reset) on the Ardiuno is not all that visible, there is a link to that resistor and switch.

The resistors on the LED and reset switch where wrong, I have switched them out with the correct ones, but I am using a 10k ohm resistor.

What is it you are using the 10k for?

boredtodeath:
For the reset pin on the PL2303 can I plug in a cable right next to the ATmega IC pin 1 or do I need to plug it in after the 10k ohm resistor?

This is very bizarre. Do you have some difficulty following circuit diagrams, or what? Either you replicate the circuit as shown in your diagram, or why would you actually expect it to operate at all?

boredtodeath:
Also, can anything I did, can it erase the IC's firmware?

Not unless you erase it permanently.

Paul__B:

boredtodeath:
The reset switch was connected to ground, but now it is connected to positive.

Why would you do that?

I only found that out after I tested it, I didn't do it on purpose.

Paul__B:

boredtodeath:
Please note, that while the link between pin 1 (reset) on the Ardiuno is not all that visible, there is a link to that resistor and switch.

The resistors on the LED and reset switch where wrong, I have switched them out with the correct ones, but I am using a 10k ohm resistor.

What is it you are using the 10k for?

For the reset switch, if you look at my first post I have attached a photo of my breadboard.

Paul__B:

boredtodeath:
For the reset pin on the PL2303 can I plug in a cable right next to the ATmega IC pin 1 or do I need to plug it in after the 10k ohm resistor?

This is very bizarre. Do you have some difficulty following circuit diagrams, or what? Either you replicate the circuit as shown in your diagram, or why would you actually expect it to operate at all?

Ah yeah, I think I may have made that part obvious, in my first post.

This is my second breadboard setup, and the first I had help, and it was not an Ardiuno.

All I was trying to do is have the LED flash, at this point I am only wanting to connect it up so it will run the program that was written to it. It has the Arduino Uno bootloader burned in, I didn't want someone to do it, but they did it anyway.

Dude, it didn't work, so I posted what I have done and what I checked. Now I am asking the community wtf? And for advice on anything I might need to change.

Paul__B:

boredtodeath:
Also, can anything I did, can it erase the IC's firmware?

Not unless you erase it permanently.

Well you didn't answer my question, because of the over heating, could I have erased what was on the chip. Or could I have just plan old fired it?

boredtodeath:
For the reset switch, if you look at my first post I have attached a photo of my breadboard.

But - in that photo the reset switch is completely wrong.

boredtodeath:
All I was trying to do is have the LED flash, at this point I am only wanting to connect it up so it will run the program that was written to it. It has the Arduino Uno bootloader burned in, I didn't want someone to do it, but they did it anyway.

The Bootloader is what you need to put in sketches using the CP2102 interface, so that is hardly anything to complain about - that is presumably exactly what you want to do.

boredtodeath:
Well you didn't answer my question, because of the over heating, could I have erased what was on the chip. Or could I have just plan old fired it?

That was my point. Maybe you did fry it if it now overheats and does nothing, but for the present, just go over it and make it look like the correct circuit (because at least the reset was not in that photo), triple check everything.

Paul__B:

boredtodeath:
For the reset switch, if you look at my first post I have attached a photo of my breadboard.

But - in that photo the reset switch is completely wrong.

How it is wrong, how do I fix it?

Paul__B:

boredtodeath:
All I was trying to do is have the LED flash, at this point I am only wanting to connect it up so it will run the program that was written to it. It has the Arduino Uno bootloader burned in, I didn’t want someone to do it, but they did it anyway.

The Bootloader is what you need to put in sketches using the CP2102 interface, so that is hardly anything to complain about - that is presumably exactly what you want to do.

I have what I need to build an adaprot that will allow me to burn the bootloader on the IC myself, what is wrong with wanting to do it myself, this person who did that dosen’t compretand the idea, that I am wanting to try it myself.

Or in other words, he dosen’t understand why I am doing it the hardway.

Paul__B:

boredtodeath:
Well you didn’t answer my question, because of the over heating, could I have erased what was on the chip. Or could I have just plan old fired it?

That was my point. Maybe you did fry it if it now overheats and does nothing, but for the present, just go over it and make it look like the correct circuit (because at least the reset was not in that photo), triple check everything.

Okay, I have power up the IC with 5v only and it hasn’t heated up.

As for the reset switch, if you look towards the right hand side of the board, you’ll see a brown wire, followed by a red wire linking from positive raill, then there is the switch, then the resistor and you can’t see it in the photo but there is a small wire with no cover linking to pin 1 on the IC.

The other thing I need to know, when connecthing the PL2303h adaptor, where do I place it?