Burning bootloader with Arduino Uno SMD to "fresh" Atmega328P-PU problems

Hi there,

Right now I'm trying to burn the bootloder to a "fresh" Atmega328P-PU using an Arduino UNO SMD as the ISP.
I've gone through at least 10 different tutorials along with the ones from the Arduino website.
These are the ones I've used from Arduino.cc : http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/ArduinoToBreadboard and http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Standalone.

I've checked all my connections, board.txt, signatures in the avrdude file and nothing works when I try to burn the bootloader.
I keep getting this error:

avrdude: Yikes! Invalid device signature.
Double check connections and try again, or use -F to override
this check.
I have absolutely no idea what is going on, I can upload the ArduinoISP sketch but when I change the Programmer to ArudinoISP and burn the bootloader if gives me this error.

Any help will be greatly appreciated! I'm starting to tear my hair out on this right now.

It worked! Thanks a whole lot!!
Though one hiccup in the process, I'm running the Atmega328 at 16MHz but when I connect to crystal and the two capacitors it wouldn't work. But once I removed the capacitors it worked as planned. Not sure why this is though.

Also quick question if you don't mind, now that my "fresh" Atmega328P has the bootloader on it, once I upload a sketch to it, will the bootloader be removed? I tested it out and it does seem like the bootloader becomes all "0xFF" once I do this.

Thanks again for the help!

Uploading through the ICSP port does a "chip erase" which erases the bootloader.

If you use the bootloader to upload a sketch, it stays there, naturally.

yeoj:
Though one hiccup in the process, I'm running the Atmega328 at 16MHz but when I connect to crystal and the two capacitors it wouldn't work. But once I removed the capacitors it worked as planned. Not sure why this is though.

Question is - which capacitors?

The crystal capacitors should be 22 pF - picofarads.

If you happen to mistake and use 100 nF - nanofarad - capacitors, it certainly will not work.

Though one hiccup in the process, I'm running the Atmega328 at 16MHz but when I connect to crystal and the two capacitors it wouldn't work. But once I removed the capacitors it worked as planned. Not sure why this is though.

15pf to 22pf is not much capacitance and many breadboard designs will 'create' this or more just through the stray capacitance in the solderless breadboard and jumpers. So, I've seen many breadboard designs where the 22pf recommended caps are not necessary (but would be required in a PC board or stripboard.)

My recommendation: If the Atmega = xtal oscillates without the load capacitors, then use 10-12pF on your solderless breadboard. if it does NOT oscillate without the load capacitors, use 18pF to 22pF and always include the caps in your final design unless you are using a resonator.

Ray

Paul__B:

yeoj:
Though one hiccup in the process, I'm running the Atmega328 at 16MHz but when I connect to crystal and the two capacitors it wouldn't work. But once I removed the capacitors it worked as planned. Not sure why this is though.

Question is - which capacitors?

The crystal capacitors should be 22 pF - picofarads.

If you happen to mistake and use 100 nF - nanofarad - capacitors, it certainly will not work.

I'm using 22 pF capacitors.

mrburnette:

Though one hiccup in the process, I'm running the Atmega328 at 16MHz but when I connect to crystal and the two capacitors it wouldn't work. But once I removed the capacitors it worked as planned. Not sure why this is though.

15pf to 22pf is not much capacitance and many breadboard designs will 'create' this or more just through the stray capacitance in the solderless breadboard and jumpers. So, I've seen many breadboard designs where the 22pf recommended caps are not necessary (but would be required in a PC board or stripboard.)

My recommendation: If the Atmega = xtal oscillates without the load capacitors, then use 10-12pF on your solderless breadboard. if it does NOT oscillate without the load capacitors, use 18pF to 22pF and always include the caps in your final design unless you are using a resonator.

Ray

Thanks for the tip, I'll try 10-12pF when I get my hands a couple of those!