Can I change this triac for that?

I am planning on using this circuit for some AC dimming. But those triacs are kinda expensive, and I was thinking I should use a higher rated one for my project (I only need 8A per triac, but bigger is always safer). What triac do you recommend using under say $1.50 apiece and do I need to change any other components? Looking through digikey the following ones look like they have a good price for their amperage rating.
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/ween-semiconductors/BTA416Y-800C127/1966179 https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/ween-semiconductors/BTA416Y-800B127/1966178 Or this one is a bit more expensive than Id like, but its in the same series as the one in the video. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/stmicroelectronics/BTA16-600BWRG/654430?s=N4IgTCBcDaIEYBcCGBGAbAWjQBmwIQHUAlAcRAF0BfIA What do you recommend? Its just gonna be used for dimming AC lights.

Here is the circuit from the first link.

Edit- Ok, I think Im gonna go with the BTA416Y-800C, 127 or the BTA416Y-800B, 127. They are both the same price, which one should I use assuming I am using that circuit without any changes?

I followed your link and it took me to You Tube and advertisements. I am not willing to watch a load of adverts and a video to see your circuit, and I suspect no one else will want to either. Please post a schematic here.

Your basic premise is reasonable, if the triacs you want to use have a higher current rating and a high enough voltage rating they are probably okay. Do you have the experience to work with mains safely?

I skipped through that video, looks like a standard TRIAC circuit.

8A is a lot of current - considering the typical voltage drop of a TRIAC you're going to need proper heatsinking. Also I do assume this are old type incandescent lights?

For incandescent lights (or other pure resistive loads) you don't need snubberless types.

Hi,

I followed your link and it took me to You Tube and advertisements.

I got digikey on all three links, so not sure what you are getting, I have adblocker running, that might be why.

All three will do the job, all are 600 or 800V and 16A rating for your 8A load would be fine. They are basically a group of popular mid-range triacs and I have used them in various jobs.

If the AC lights are incandescent then okay. But if they are LED and you want to control the mains to the LED supply unit then not okay.

LED power supplies have a totally different load characteristic and need a different approach than with old style LAMP dimmers.

Tom... :)

TomGeorge: Hi,

I got digikey on all three links, so not sure what you are getting, I have adblocker running, that might be why.

All three will do the job, all are 600 or 800V and 16A rating for your 8A load would be fine. They are basically a group of popular mid-range triacs and I have used them in various jobs.

If the AC lights are incandescent then okay. But if they are LED and you want to control the mains to the LED supply unit then not okay.

LED power supplies have a totally different load characteristic and need a different approach than with old style LAMP dimmers.

Tom... :)

The first one is a link on the word "this" and it is the original circuit I am copying. I think you missed that one. It is for Christmas lights, so some incandescent and some LED, but the LED ones don't really have a power supply. They are just a bunch of LEDs in series, and then they just flicker on and off every half-wave. So what I am asking is can I replace the triac in the circuit diagram with any of those without changing any other parts or resistor values?

PerryBebbington: I followed your link and it took me to You Tube and advertisements. I am not willing to watch a load of adverts and a video to see your circuit, and I suspect no one else will want to either. Please post a schematic here.

Your basic premise is reasonable, if the triacs you want to use have a higher current rating and a high enough voltage rating they are probably okay. Do you have the experience to work with mains safely?

I added the circuit to the main post. And yes, I do have the experience to work with mains safely.

wvmarle:
I skipped through that video, looks like a standard TRIAC circuit.

8A is a lot of current - considering the typical voltage drop of a TRIAC you’re going to need proper heatsinking. Also I do assume this are old type incandescent lights?

For incandescent lights (or other pure resistive loads) you don’t need snubberless types.

Yes I know about the heatsinks, thats why they all have an isolated tab (there will be 8 of them on each heatsink, and 2 heatsinks) It is for Christmas lights, so some incandescent and some LED, but the LED ones don’t really have a power supply. They are just a bunch of LEDs in series, and then they just flicker on and off every half-wave.

Ok, I think Im gonna go with the BTA416Y-800C, 127 or the BTA416Y-800B, 127. They are both the same price, which one should I use assuming I am using that circuit without any changes?

Electrolicious:
I added the circuit to the main post. And yes, I do have the experience to work with mains safely.

Ok, thanks, much better. I think you got your answer from others so I’ll leave you to it.