Can't burn bootloader!

Hey guys Iv’e tried wiring up my Pololu AVR PROGRAMMER V.2.1 Pololu USB AVR Programmer v2.1
up to a Atmega328P like this.

But when I press ‘Burn Bootloader’ It just says

Arduino: 1.8.13 (Windows 10), Board: “Arduino Uno”

avrdude: stk500v2_command(): command failed

avrdude: initialization failed, rc=-1

Double check connections and try again, or use -F to override

this check.

Error while burning bootloader.


(deleted)

Well that cannot be fully true, as to how you have it connected, the Pololu uses a 6pin ISP connector, the wiring diagram shows a 10pin ...............

spycatcher2k:
It's missing a 10K pullup on reset, A bypass capacitor on the 5V/GND as well as the crystal and 22pf capacitors.

Ive seen people make bootloader boards without that, and even tho I DO have that, it still says the same thing.

srnet:
Well that cannot be fully true, as to how you have it connected, the Pololu uses a 6pin ISP connector, the wiring diagram shows a 10pin ...............

Its the same as the 6 pin because 4 of the extra are GND

Is the device being programmed powered externally? If not, you need to follow the instructions in the users guide for that programmer to configure it to supply power to the part being programmed.

If you’ve got that set right, you have a wiring mistake.

Contrary to popular opinion around here, you don’t need the 10k pullup on reset… the reset pin has the internal pullup enabled whenever it is configured to act as a reset pin. The external pullup is needed if you’re doing the DTR autoreset trick, and - particularly if you have long(ish) traces or wires connected to reset, to keep EMI/electrical noise it picks up from the environment from resetting it unexpectedly… But you certainly don’t need the pullup when reset is being externally driven by the programmer board!

You do need the 0.1uF cap between Vcc and Reset, right next to the chip, and (if burning with a board def that uses a crystal) you need the crystal and it’s loading caps (or a resonator) connected to the correct pins too (as close to the chip as possible) - otherwise it will brick the chip (recoverable if crystal is added or external clock provided) when it sets the fuses, and then fail to write the flash, because it does bootloading in two operations, first setting fuses, then uploading, but the second operation will fail since fusebits are latched when you exit programming mode, but the selected clock source is now not present. But this fails with a different error (typically, it reads the signature as 0x000000)

DrAzzy:
Is the device being programmed powered externally? If not, you need to follow the instructions in the users guide for that programmer to configure it to supply power to the part being programmed.

If you've got that set right, you have a wiring mistake.

Contrary to popular opinion around here, you don't need the 10k pullup on reset... the reset pin has the internal pullup enabled whenever it is configured to act as a reset pin. The external pullup is needed if you're doing the DTR autoreset trick, and - particularly if you have long(ish) traces or wires connected to reset, to keep EMI/electrical noise it picks up from the environment from resetting it unexpectedly... But you certainly don't need the pullup when reset is being externally driven by the programmer board!

You do need the 0.1uF cap between Vcc and Reset, right next to the chip, and (if burning with a board def that uses a crystal) you need the crystal and it's loading caps (or a resonator) connected to the correct pins too (as close to the chip as possible) - otherwise it will brick the chip (recoverable if crystal is added or external clock provided) when it sets the fuses, and then fail to write the flash, because it does bootloading in two operations, first setting fuses, then uploading, but the second operation will fail since fusebits are latched when you exit programming mode, but the selected clock source is now not present. But this fails with a different error (typically, it reads the signature as 0x000000)

Thanks, it’s hard for me to put text into words, would you be able to give me a link to somewhere that has pictures or videos?

Snizce:
Thanks, it’s hard for me to put text into words, would you be able to give me a link to somewhere that has pictures or videos?

I am getting that from the official user guide, where it says as much - see Pololu - 7. Power settings and status

I’ve never used it - I just googled it, skimmed the description for mention of how the power supply system works, saw that it by default assumes the target is powered, and clicked the link to the user manual chapter on the power system. (That power system is quite advanced - i am amazed that they can sell them for only $8/each, and am mystified as to how they achieve that, looking at the PCB - it’s got all of one chip on it! I don’t know how they pull it off, but am impressed nonetheless).

If you need video rather than text, that’s your job to figure out - I’ve given you the key piece of information, I think, which is that in default configuration, that does not supply power to the device being programmed, like the ubiquitous bargain-basement programmers like USBAsp/USBtinyISP, et al.