Unfortunately I can find any copper clad Paxolin/phenolic/FR-2 that's dark in colour
Like these:
anyone got a suppler/suggestion?
Gawd It's awful stuff... you sure you want it?
;D ;D ;D
Yes, its not the best stuff......BUT, its for some restoration of late 60's audio equipment.
I'm not sure it's still legal
{hides stash of "proper" lead/tin solder}
you can always use fiberglass boards and stain them, though I am not sure where you buy turd color stain past 1990 ;D
(really you can get that color as wood stain at any hardware store, just let it soak for a while and hope it doesnt catch fire before it fully dries)
I have some of that. Somewhere. How much do you need?
Thanks westfw, sincerely appreciated but Looking for quite large amounts.....could easily take 50+ 100mm x 160mm sheets and run out in a week, got such a demand for cloned 60's audio PCBs at the moment.
Waiting to here back from a guy in Poland.....but think dealing with China will be the only option.
just curious, what audio gear are you making boards for? i may be interested too
I make clone PCBs for vintage guitar effects units....
Best seller by far is the Arbiter Electronics Fuzz Face iss1 board (1966)
Clone
1966 original
But do all sorts, like:
THE “TRIANGLE” BIG MUFF [ch960] - VERSION 1 - 1969-1973
THE OP-AMP BIG MUFF [ch960] - VERSION 4 - Circa 1978
ACE TONE FUZZ MASTER FM-2
Univox SUPER-FUZZ - 1968
Shin-ei Companion FUZZ BOX FY-2
That's REALLY dark in colour FR-2 was used by most Japanese pedals from the 60s......and now im out of stock! 
so cool, thats what i was hoping it was.
do you have a website or a list?
Still working on the website, most sales are word of mouth due to being 1-10 unit runs of rare boards....But started putting the rally popular stuff on ebay.
Do almost any pedal layout on Black FR4, but the vintage stuff is only ever limited batches depending on what copper board Iv got....got one more batch of the old brown FR2 coming this week from East Europe.....but after that's gone Im in trouble.
If these are going into pedals, why must it match exactly - who's going to see? Are they going into original pedal cases/bodies? What about the other parts - do you source NOS vintage parts (or do the people who buy the boards)?
I guess my question is why must it match (for all I know maybe the pedal doesn't work the same or at all if it doesn't)? I'm just curious (btw - you wouldn't happen to know anyone selling NOS S-100 bus edge connectors, would you?)...
That's the ongoing debate!
If its going into an original enclosure then just like any restoration be it a building, car or antique you want the replaced part to fit aestheticlly as well as functionality.
Then you have MOJO..... some people like to make clones as original as possable from NOS component to original PCB layout (I personally fall into that camp)
I deal with some NOS stock, but only really for kits I do
cool man, those look great.
i just finished wiring up a scrambler clone last night.
Love the Ampeg scrambler, Pure sonic fuzz death!
That's the ongoing debate!
If its going into an original enclosure then just like any restoration be it a building, car or antique you want the replaced part to fit aestheticlly as well as functionality.
Most of the time, though, unless it would decrease the value of the original, if it isn't visible then you can replace it with a functional equivalent and be "ok".
Do people really open up these pedals and ohh-and-ahh over them with their buddies (I suppose its possible)?
I dunno - I'm not arguing what people do; but I do wonder what you and others will do when this old-school phenolic finally goes completely away (wasn't there a fire hazard issue with it?). Will you go with modern replacements (black would look nice), or do you think someone will come out with PCB that looks the same, but is made with modern materials?
Hmmm, yeah interesting. The thing is... FR2 was used in the 60's and 70's even though epoxy fiberglass was also available because is was "cheap". So you are going out of your way to cheapen the boards (though you might pay/get more) to maintain the NOS appearance when it's NOT really NOS? Certainly Glass-Epoxy was/is superior.
I have a pedal from the 70's (Ibanez Phase Shifter) and it has green fiberglass. I'm wondering if FR2 and Glass-Epoxy were sometimes used interchangeably on original equipment...
if i had the choice, and had to replace a board on any of my vintage effects, i would go for a look a like version rather than a modern version with a super compact layout.
guitar players can get kinda crazy, all sorts of snake oil and voodoo magic is involved with tone.
-NOOB, did you come up with the layout for those boards? from photos of originals or something? most of the clones available online all have a modern (non original) pcb.
Most of the time, though, unless it would decrease the value of the original, if it isn't visible then you can replace it with a functional equivalent and be "ok".
I total see your point, but it just the same as classic cars....there is a huge industry in repro part for cars, looks at VW you can get a clone of every engine part of ever model.....and these are part that no one will see.....but its a million $ industry.
Do people really open up these pedals and ohh-and-ahh over them with their buddies (I suppose its possible)?
And there is a ohh-and-ahh factor, with most pedal forums having a gut shot section full of open boxes of beautique pedals.
I dunno - I'm not arguing what people do; but I do wonder what you and others will do when this old-school phenolic finally goes completely away (wasn't there a fire hazard issue with it?). Will you go with modern replacements (black would look nice), or do you think someone will come out with PCB that looks the same, but is made with modern materials?
Iv been asked to make PCB that looks the same, but is made with modern materials (by dying with leather dye...free top tip ;)) but Im ask MUCH MUCH MUCH more to use a authentic as possible board.
Im also with you on black! (I make clones of all the vintage boards I do on black FR-4, but the sales are much less then darker FR-2 )
Hmmm, yeah interesting. The thing is... FR2 was used in the 60's and 70's even though epoxy fiberglass was also available because is was "cheap". So you are going out of your way to cheapen the boards (though you might pay/get more) to maintain the NOS appearance when it's NOT really NOS? Certainly Glass-Epoxy was/is superior.
I charge the same for FR2 as FR4 (but this is more to do with my FR4 costing almost the same, as I import black sheets from America)
regards Glass-Epoxy being superior......your cant hear the difference, so that just leaves the ascetic issue, and IMHO FR2 was/is superior when it comes to ascetics 
I have a pedal from the 70's (Ibanez Phase Shifter) and it has green fiberglass. I'm wondering if FR2 and Glass-Epoxy were sometimes used interchangeably on original equipment...
Yes, To an extent. Company's like like Electro Harmonix are renowned for using what ever was cheapest in the 70s (not just brands of components, but values too!)......and there THE OP-AMP BIG MUFF [ch960] - VERSION 4 - Circa 1978 came in a mix of board materials.
-NOOB, did you come up with the layout for those boards? from photos of originals or something? most of the clones available online all have a modern (non original) pcb.
Yep they all are based on the original boards, most from flat-bed scans vectored to printable transfers. (of discontinued broads)
The goal being to keep the layout the same so you can use NOS components as they were meant to be placed, as they will effect the tone!
The colour of the PCB is second, but if I can offer it for the same price as FR-4, people seem to want it.
yeah man its nice to see accurate layouts of these old pedals. especially with simple circuits like fuzzes there is no sense in changing up the layout, there is like 10 components.
you get your black boards from Bill at abcfab? i just ordered a stack of black and a couple sheets of the red to try out.