Cat SHOCK collar!

Ok... so not really a "shock" collar. I just want one that will vibrate with the offset weight/motor like a cell phone.

I introduced a new cat to the house and one of my two older ones is not really a "social" cat. The new cat is determined to mess with him... multiple times a day!

This has caused my older one to just kind of stay hold up in the room... problem is, he doesn't even want to get out to go and use the litter box!

So I had the idea that I could maybe use one collar on the older cat that has an RF transmitter, then on the A-Hole cat, I could put the vibrating collar that would activate for a second when he got too close to the other cat.

Ideally, I could "switch modes" and use it remotely for when we are sleeping because SOMETIMES they do all get along in the bed together... sometimes he decides to mess with him anyway. This would allow us to manually trigger it as well.

What parts would I need to put out a signal and what parts to read the signal? I'm pretty sure I could find all the code and various ways to do the rest... just no idea what parts would be best.

Obviously the smaller the better as well as the lower the power consumption the better as I'd rather not be changing batteries daily!.

If you want to measure the distance between the cats, something like an acoustic (ultrasonic) ping sensor is required, where one cat sends a trigger signal and the other one responds, so that the delay between both signals can be used to determine the distance between both. Take care to use a ping frequency above what the cats can hear!

Then you'll have to experiment with this transmission concept, so that only the ping signal is received, but not reflections of the trigger signal. Eventually you'll have to use RF or IR modules for transmission of the trigger signal, where you could hook in your remote control as well. IR may be the best choice, because it does not penetrate a wall between both cats, but US doesn't either. Only then you can start looking for lowest power modules for your "Cat Avoidance" system :wink:

Also the other conditions (sleep time...), and whether the cat reacts in the intended way, have to be researched and handled in a functional way.

The problem with sonar is that it is very directional. IR presents the same problem. I think I would go with a very weak transmitter/receiver system. The transmitter could be pulse coded so one cat knows who the other is. Also, remote triggering would be easy. Power consumption would be minimal

I would build a free running Oscillator something like a Hartley almost anything would do. To keep it simple, keep the frequency low (1 or 2 mhz). I would go slightly above the AM broadcast band. The receivers would also be very crude as we really don't need very much sensitivity. A squelch circuit would be used to control the range. The transmitter could be built using a single transistor (keep the power very low). The receiver the same.

A simple 555 timer chip could be used to generate the encoding. The encoding freq would be low as well (50khz or so). A simple high pass/low pass filter could be made from a single quad op amp chip to detect the signal. A phase lock/ loop chip would work as well. All of these parts could be gotten from Radio Shack.

From what I gather, one of the two cats is the offender so the system would not have to be bi-directional although it could be. Just use two different encoding frequencies.

Your biggest power drain would be the motors.

Have fun.

interesting idea.

I'm not that good with straight circuitry, but I might give it a go.

In fact problem with ultrasound is cats may hear it; at least internet says so.

I don't know if I would go ultrasound... seems like the hardware would be bulky, but maybe I'm thining of different stuff.

Here is a simple way I think I would start off doing it.

1); Rather than using a Hartley oscillator(Osc), I would use a Colpitts or Pierce Osc. See attached link. http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/oscillator/crystal.html

You can get crystals at Digikey for less than $2.00US.

I would set the carrier frequency near the high end of the AM band. That way you can use an AM broadcast receiver to test the transmitter.

I would AM modulate the carrier using a 555 time chip with a modulation freq somewhere near the 5khz range. Again, this will allow you to use an AM radio to test your transmitter. You will be able to hear the signal on the broadcast receiver. A 555 time chip is very easy to use and cheap from almost anywhere. (Radio Shack, Digikey ect.)

See attached link. http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/waveforms/555_timer.html

Here is a simple, hand made AM receiver with a sensitivity control. The drawing shows a speaker as the output. More likely some type of headphones. This will also assist you in testing the system. You should be able to hear your transmitter.

See attached link. http://www.electroschematics.com/601/2-transistor-radio-receiver/

Here is a simple band pass filter design. Once you have the Transmitter and receiver systems working you would install the filter on the receiver output. This will reduce the effects of interference signals. At this time you would incorporate the motor/vibrater. A simple transistor or opamp amplifier would be used to amplify the signal into saturation. You would use the saturated signal to drive the motor.

See attached like for the filter design: http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/filter/filter_4.html

Power could be an issue and as I said earlier, the voltage and current drain would be driven by the motor. The transmitter power should be kept down in the 10 to 20 mw range.

Have fun
Ken

what about bluetooth? you could either have each cat equipped with a short range bluetooth transciever and maybe somehow adjust the transmit strength? the problem with any kind of RF in such close proximity to any small animal is possible negative effects on the body. The whole science of RF is very much in its infancy when it comes to truly understanding what and if there are any negative side effects. I know they have determined a cellphone in close proximity to a rabbits head will cause tumours. The time frame was not all that long, either.

Get real. All this stuff will be much too big for cat collar. I know this is the Arduino forum, but I think in this case the solution that would work is human intervention and an understanding of cat psychology. You the human are the top cat and you won't stand for the new cat's behaviour. Somehow you have to get that message across.

there are wearable arduino's and mini's. I do not see it as a problem, although the power for the transmitter and motor may be. Vibrating motors are small enough, although an irritating piezo buzzer may be smaller and have a lower current draw, enabling you to use a smaller battery. Oh ya, Lithium could also be potentially dangerous if the cell starts to overheat and leak.

I'm not trying to dissuade you, but as a trouble shooter, I tend to look at all possibilities. Now if only I could program :slight_smile:

Maybe you've never tried to train a cat. :wink:

One problem is that we can't be here all day. We also don't want him constantly living in fear of us either. Right now I do the majority of the "fussing"... I can barely walk by the cat without it hauling ass assuming it's doing something wrong and I'm gonna fuss at it.

These cats are not small... 17lbs+ size (reasonable) shouldn't be too much of an issue.

In the end, if he approaches the cat and gets the vibration, he will quickly learn that isn't cool and stay away. Maybe he'll even associate the "growl" with the sensation.

I guess that's the easiest way to explain how that training isn't so easy. The cat CLEARLY displays his displeasure with the other cat, ALWAYS, when it comes around. It never says "Ok, come hang out this time." It always assumes defensive/aggressive posture and growls. That should be enough for the cat to say "Maybe I should stop." He's a stuborn shit. :slight_smile: