Chicken Coop Door Confusion V2

The OP's schematic, which they have to confirm.

Is that a more professional version of my schematic?

Watson221:
Ok cool! So I'll will use a DC gear motor.

In my code how can I restore power to the motor after the switch toggles?

What specific area do I need to add something or take something away?

Was I on the right track with the switchCase?

No time to fully review your sketch, perhaps someone else has.

Is that a more professional version of my schematic?

Your schematic is a bit too complex.
Using blocks in a schematic is never a good thing eg. Bread Board.
Standardized symbols is like everyone talking the same language.
Also neatness counts a lot.

Suggest you use the schematic version in post #10 as you do not need to worry about the limit switches in the sketch.
All you have to do is handle day/darkness timing.
Also the schematic in #10 gives you the option of manual control, which IMO is a must.

For your design, suggest these changes:

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Thanks so much for that cool looking schematic! I don't recognize a lot of the symbols so I'm off to Google!

What you don’t recognize ask about.

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To be honest this schematic looks mostly foreign to me. The = with a / through it, the two triangles with a line through it, and how the whole left part with the LDR connects to the Arduino.

S5 and S6 are optional limit switches that remove the power from the motor if software fails to stop the motor when the limit switches S7 and S8 activate.

Q3 and Q4 are NPN bipolar transistors 2N2222.

D3 and D6 are flyback diodes, 1N4007.

D4 and D5 are LEDs to indicate when the relays are energized.

TVS2 is a transorb to snub out noise from the motor (may not be necessary).
Must be bi-polar, something like:
https://www.jameco.com/z/1-5KE68CA-STMicroelectronics-Diode-Transient-Voltage-Suppressor-TVS-Single-Bi-Dir-58-1V-1-5KW-2-Pin-DO-201-T-R_1543470.html

C1 is a .1uF capacitor for noise suppression, a voltage greater than the supply+ voltage.

K10A,B,C is a DPDT relay.
K9A,B is a SPST relay.

NO is the normally open contact (when the relay is de energized).
NC is the normally closed contact (when the relay is de energized).

The LDR R11 and the 10K resistor R12 form a voltage divider, the center of which is connected to the Arduino A0 input.
R11 and R12 may have to be swapped, depends on what you need in software.
R12 value may have to be changed as per the characteristics of the LDR.

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Wow thanks for all the information!