Hola Amigos quisiera saber si saben si con el modulo de relé (16 canales) puedo combinar unos de ellos con 220 VCA y otros con 12 VDC?
Resulta que conecté 2 bombas de 220VCA y 2 electrovalvulas de 12VDC y mi modulo parece como si se conectara y desconectara muchisimas veces por segundo cuando las cosas de 220 se encienden. alguien sabe que problema puedo tener?
Si puedes, pero lo que no debes hacer es que Arduino alimente el módulo porque no posee la potencia para hacerlo.
No puede enteregar 60mAx16 = 960mA
Para ello usa una fuente de 5V externa, alimenta el módulo de reles. Cambia el Jumper si lo tiene de la posicion en la que es alimentado x Arduino a la posicon en que lo hace por fuente externa y comparte GND de esta nueva fuente con el Arduino.
Si buscas en internet hay esquemas mostrándolo. Si buscas acá en el foro se ha explicado muchas veces.
@surbyte
Mi modulo de relé es el siguiente
Conecto como digo en el post lo que es de 220 VCA y lo que es de 12 VDC en distintos relés, almiento el modulo con una fuente aparte y lo que hago es compartir la tierra con el arduino, hasta ahi vamos bien, cuando activo las cosas de continua es decir lo de 12 VDC no hay problema, pero cuando necesito accionar las cosas de 220VCA el modulo empieza a encenderse y apagarse muchas veces por segundo el ruido es como un timbre, y esto se calma cuando conecto el pin de 5V del arduino al pin 5V del modulo de relé, que problema puedo tener?
Hi,
Para que funcionen los relays tienes que suplir 5 voltios al conector JP2 pin 1&2. Puedes usar los 5 voltios del Arduino. Los 5 voltios suplen el voltaje a la entrada de los optocouples.
Esta es la información que encontré:
Esquema general pero de no descargarlo y ampliarlo se entiende poco.
Lo mas importante sus especificaciones:
o here are some specifications that we can all use:
Overview:
- The 12VDC input requires > 500mA.
- The drive to each control input pin must "sink" 3mA when low (low = relay ON).
***** Input Power (12 VDC input)*****
- About 8 mA is required with all relays off.
- Each relay requires about 30 mA when on.
- So max supply current is 8 mA + (16 x 30 mA) = 488 mA (actual measured was 500 mA)
- Because one may use the board's +5 VDC output (2 pins) to power an Arduino/PIC circuit, use a 12V power supply that can provide MORE than 500mA (depending on your circuit's requirements).
- Note that the switching regulator on the Relay Board should somewhat efficiently (say 70%?) convert the board's 5V power usage to 12 V power input requirements. For example: 200mA at +5VDC (1 Watt) does NOT mean the +12V supply needs to supply an additional 200 mA also. This is because 1 W of power from the +12V supply only requires about 83 mA ( 12 V x 83 mA = 1 W ); however at say 70% efficiency of the 5 V regulator, this goes up to about 120 mA (83 mA / 0.7) but NOT the full 200 mA.
NOTE: The best way to discover what 12 V supply is needed (its max current rating) is to ACTUALLY MEASURE the 12 V input current while using a "test supply" that can more than handle worst case (with all relays ON) then buy the supply that meets your needs. Always use a modern "switching" supply (wall wart) because they are smaller, way more efficient, generate little heat, and normally use much less "vampire power".
- The baord's LM2576 (+5V) voltage regulator is rated at 3 Amps; however, one should not push it this hard. The circuits powered by the 5 V supply on the Relay Board appear to only be the LED side of the opto-isolators. Driving an input control line low turns on an opto-isolator LED ... turning on its relay. Each opto-isolator LED seems to require about 3 mA (for a total of 3 mA x 16 = 48 mA). This should leave you with at least many hundreds of mA available to power your circuits off of the relay board's 5V output pins (two of them on the connector).
***** Input control pins *****
- Grounding an input control pin (logic low) turns on the associated relay.
- The circuit driving the input control pin must be able to "sink" (drive logic low) about 3 mA of current (easy for most PIC/Arduino output pins).
*** CAUTION *** When a pin is NOT driven low, it "floats" to nearly the +5 V that drives the opto-isolators. This means that the driving circuit (Arduino/PIC) must either be also powered by +5V, or if powered by the now common 3.3V (or less!), its output pins must be "5 Volt Tolerant" (see your micro-controller pin specs). Another option is use of a "5V tolerant serial port expander" chip like an MCP23018 (I2C interface) or MCP23S18 (SPI interface) ... where just a few micro-controller pins give you 16 I/O pins. These can be powered by 3.3 V or 5 V. They are a bit complex, but a simple "software bit banged" I2C or SPI interface can be used to control them. Finally, one could use little signal transistors (2N3904) for this isolation from the 5 V (MCU pin -to- a say 2.7K resistor -to- transistor base, emitter to ground, collector to relay board input control pin).
Y lee también este hilo 16 channel relay Hook Up to Arduino Uno sobre consideraciones para evitar fallas.