connecting a retarder switch

Hi

I'm trying to wire a switch but i can't find out how this works. Everything i press doesn't give a signal to my multimeter. Does anyone know how to wire this up to an arduino micro?

Nice diagram but what is it? Saying it doesn’t give a signal to your multimeter doesn’t help either. Volts? Ohms? What range? It’s difficult to help when we don’t know what that thing is that only you can see.

its a retarder switch from a truck. i tested resistance continuity and volts but only the M/A SWITCH pins gave a continuity. all the other pins gave nothing for me to read.

Master guns you still working on that truck sim? Looks like there’s 4 settings. 0 for bypass. To 3 for highest travel. You may have to activate it and check between 8,9,10 to 12 which appears to be a ground with a fuse.

This device is loose and outside of the vehicle, correct? If so, you should be able to read some resistance between pins 8/9/10 and 12.

Cycle through the switch positions and you should find resistance between those pins but understand it will not be zero ohms because of the “Short Circuit Protector” which is a positive temperature coefficient resistor which is there to limit the current to about 20 milliamps at 16 to 32 volts.

wolframore:
Master guns you still working on that truck sim? Looks like there’s 4 settings. 0 for bypass. To 3 for highest travel. You may have to activate it and check between 8,9,10 to 12 which appears to be a ground with a fuse.

yes i'm still working on it but it's almost finished.

WattsThat:
This device is loose and outside of the vehicle, correct? If so, you should be able to read some resistance between pins 8/9/10 and 12.

Cycle through the switch positions and you should find resistance between those pins but understand it will not be zero ohms because of the “Short Circuit Protector” which is a positive temperature coefficient resistor which is there to limit the current to about 20 milliamps at 16 to 32 volts.

i tested those pins with this type of Ohm meter
http://www.circuitbasics.com/arduino-ohm-meter/

result here measured with 1k Ohm resistor

09:08:13.284 -> Vout: 0.00
09:08:13.284 -> R2: 1023000.00
09:08:18.276 -> Vout: 0.00
09:08:18.311 -> R2: 1023000.00
09:08:44.797 -> Vout: 0.00
09:08:44.797 -> R2: 1023000.00
09:09:15.020 -> Vout: 0.00
09:09:15.020 -> R2: 1023000.00
09:09:22.386 -> Vout: 0.00
09:09:22.386 -> R2: 1023000.00
09:09:27.305 -> Vout: 0.00
09:09:27.305 -> R2: 1023000.00
09:09:45.004 -> Vout: 0.00
09:09:45.039 -> R2: 1023000.00
09:09:57.047 -> Vout: 0.00
09:09:57.047 -> R2: 1023000.00
09:10:02.213 -> Vout: 0.00
09:10:02.213 -> R2: 1023000.00
09:10:13.628 -> Vout: 0.00
09:10:13.628 -> R2: 1023000.00
09:10:22.566 -> Vout: 0.00
09:10:22.601 -> R2: 1023000.00
09:10:26.475 -> Vout: 0.00
09:10:26.475 -> R2: 1023000.00
09:10:27.557 -> Vout: 0.00
09:10:27.557 -> R2: 1023000.00
09:10:45.217 -> Vout: 0.00
09:10:45.217 -> R2: 1023000.00

and my multimeter

but it keeps saying 0 when i cycle between each mode.

Check pin 11 as ground. I wonder if 12 works like a shunt with extremely high resistance until short.

i tried it with 11 as ground and my multimeter range at 2m Ohm.

pin 10 = 1320
pin 9 = 1330
pin 8 = 1360

but i have no clue what those numbers in the 1300 range mean and how i could use that in a code for it to work

This is just a 4 position switch.
Depending on the position, pin 12 will either be 'not connected' or connected to one or more of pins 8 - 10.

A retarder(assuming electric type)is actually a generator, usually mounted on the driveshaft.
It's a large aluminium plate surrounded by coils.
If the coils isn't connected to anything, there won'tbe any resistance.
On any of the other switch positions a resistor of some size will be connected to the coils, creating a circuit. This allows electrons to flow, and magnetic fields to build which 'grabs' the disc.

That little switch would never be able to handle the currents produced, so pins 8 - 10 would have been connected to some sort of heavy-duty relay.

Gadgetman:
This is just a 4 position switch.
Depending on the position, pin 12 will either be ‘not connected’ or connected to one or more of pins 8 - 10.

A retarder(assuming electric type)is actually a generator, usually mounted on the driveshaft.
It’s a large aluminium plate surrounded by coils.
If the coils isn’t connected to anything, there won’tbe any resistance.
On any of the other switch positions a resistor of some size will be connected to the coils, creating a circuit. This allows electrons to flow, and magnetic fields to build which ‘grabs’ the disc.

That little switch would never be able to handle the currents produced, so pins 8 - 10 would have been connected to some sort of heavy-duty relay.

you say it’s a 4 position switch. so it could be used with an arduino to make it work with a pc?

i tried continuity and i only managed to see pin 1 and 2 with 11 (ground) for the M/A Switch.

when i try it with the gear switching part of the switch it only gave me a result that is always on and when i use the switch it doesn't turn off.

what i mean with this is that when i don't use the switch its connect (somehow i don't know how) but when i use it it doesn't disconnect

for the retarder part it just gives me some numbers that are each time different but still in the 1300 range. but when i test it for continuity it shows me its connected even while the switch is in its off position.

Are you absolutely certain that the schematic you have is for your switch?

Gadgetman:
Are you absolutely certain that the schematic you have is for your switch?

yes i got it from DAF itself

i also got this and i know its for the switch as well but i have no clue what it is

That is a drawing of the relevant part of the wiring loom on the truck the switch belong on.
The block at the righthand edge is the connector that the switch plugs into, and the other is somewhere in the engine compartment.(Most likely, it connects directlytothe ECU) In-between you can see the wires, and some codes as to how they're marked.
(Nope, not a clue how to decode the numbers)

Ok it can be done but you need separate connection or some way of multiplexing the three lines into one.

Option 1. Pins 8,9, 10 goes to individual inputs. Which makes a circuit between ground when connected.

Option 2. Each line goes to their own switching and give logic high or low which is then converted to a resistance and different voltage on ADC to reduce pin count. Off is zero. And spread out the voltage. 1.5, 3 and 4.5v to indicate different settings.

wolframore:
Ok it can be done but you need separate connection or some way of multiplexing the three lines into one.

Option 1. Pins 8,9, 10 goes to individual inputs. Which makes a circuit between ground when connected.

Option 2. Each line goes to their own switching and give logic high or low which is then converted to a resistance and different voltage on ADC to reduce pin count. Off is zero. And spread out the voltage. 1.5, 3 and 4.5v to indicate different settings.

ill try option one but the switch only gives me a on signal even when it's supposed to be off. does placing a resistor in the circuit help fix it? else i'll just try that tomorrow.

and option 2, i have no clue on how to do that and where to start

wolframore:
Ok it can be done but you need separate connection or some way of multiplexing the three lines into one.

Option 1. Pins 8,9, 10 goes to individual inputs. Which makes a circuit between ground when connected.

Option 2. Each line goes to their own switching and give logic high or low which is then converted to a resistance and different voltage on ADC to reduce pin count. Off is zero. And spread out the voltage. 1.5, 3 and 4.5v to indicate different settings.

i tried that but i got no result with it so im back to the beginning