Creating leads for electronic components that weren't for breadboards

Other Hardware General Electronics
1

I assume that "leads" is the right term for wires sodered to the component going to the PCB or other components. But you know what they say about assuming. Please correct me if I am wrong about the term "leads."

The real question/problem is: I have solid core wire that I looped through the tie-in points (the metal tabs on the components with holes in them) and wraped the wire around it self. I tried using my soder and 30w sodering iron to connect the looped wire by melting the soder onto the wire. The soder just melted and formed into balls and stuck to the soder stick. The soder would not adhere to the wire.

Is there something I am not doing or not doing correctly?

2

Usually it means:
a) You're not using flux (most electrical solder has it inside so this is unlikely)
b) You're not getting it hot enough. If the wire is very thick it can conduct away a lot of heat, preventing the solder from sticking.

The solution to (b) is a hotter iron or thinner wire.

3

So the higher the Wattage the hotter the iron?

Where would you suggest I get one? I live in Kentucky, USA.

4

Yes, but big irons aren't good for small components, they can burn them.

I live in Spain. Pleased to meet you...

5

ebay?
Look for xtronic 4000, or xtronics 4000, located in midwest USA.
Can find temperature controlled iron, or for a little more, combined iron and hot air station, good for SMD parts also.
Ships with tips in several sizes.

6

Thanks for the help.

fungus:
I live in Spain. Pleased to meet you...

I have friend that had an exchange student from there. Just don't ask me to spell the students name. I can say it, though. It was interesting to learn about your culture. :slight_smile:

CrossRoads:
ebay?
Look for xtronic 4000, or xtronics 4000, located in midwest USA.
Can find temperature controlled iron, or for a little more, combined iron and hot air station, good for SMD parts also.
Ships with tips in several sizes.

I will try that. Thank you, too

7

Usually it means:
a) You're not using flux (most electrical solder has it inside so this is unlikely)

Totally agree!
Lots available, here is one suggestion:

8

Sparkfun is a good source for a new iron. I recommend one that is 60-75W and temperature controlled (though it doesn't need to be digital.)

9

Thanks for all the advice.

Another question: Weller brand sodering irons are they of good quality?

10

Weller are one of the best.

11

Maybe dumb question but are you sure you got the insulation off of the wire before you wrapped it and tried to solder it? Solid wire often has an enamel insulation that needs to be removed by scraping or better using an abrasive paper or cloth. Then you should 'tin' it by heating and coating the wire with a little solder (flux helps). Now wrap and solder it.

12

RoyK:
Maybe dumb question but are you sure you got the insulation off of the wire before you wrapped it and tried to solder it? Solid wire often has an enamel insulation that needs to be removed by scraping or better using an abrasive paper or cloth. Then you should 'tin' it by heating and coating the wire with a little solder (flux helps). Now wrap and solder it.

Answer to your first question: I have Autism, but I am not dumb :stuck_out_tongue:

Second one: If enamel is the stuff you have to sand off and turns the wire an amber color when it's on the wire, then, no it was not that either.

This solder was old so I don't think it had flux. I threw it away because I realized it had lead in it.

13

I was referring to my question as maybe dumb, not yours. Didn't intend to offend you. =(

14

RoyK:
I was referring to my question as maybe dumb, not yours. Didn't intend to offend you. =(

None was ever taken. :slight_smile:

I thought the action of leaving the insulation on the wire was being called stupid.

The inability to recognize things like that is part of my autism.