Decision matrix for small MCU with onboard WiFi

Look very carefully at the + and - symbols on your power supply (bottom left in your picture) and the black and red wires going into the ESP32. It does not look good.

OH, nice catch... THANK YOU

And you are suggesting that somehow means something? :face_with_raised_eyebrow:

This is the WWW we are talking about. :roll_eyes:

{OK, I will reveal the secret. The regulators on that board have little or no heatsink, so cannot regulate more than a couple of hundred milliamps. More than that and the 5 V regulator will shut down.}

Do you know of an upgrade, that works better?

I'm in learning mode, here. Teach me something...

Are you thinking something more like this?

Just flip the breadboard so that the + from the regulator goes to the red line.

If you just swap the red and black wires, it will work. But if in the future you start adding more components to the breadboard, I can guarantee that there is a strong likelihood that you will connect the new components wrong.

That part is already done. It was a silly stupid oversight on my part, because I cloned another breadboard. I fixed it.

I guess my next step, is to hook up all the components in the circuit, fire them all at once, and read my current draw. It is being implied that the voltage regulator that I'm using, is insufficient for the task. I have about 700ma of headspace on that cheap piece of chinese crap. But I've already ordered a couple of buck converters to play with. (and some heatsinks to glue on them)

For IoT applications, I've already realized the value of isolating the MCU from distributing any power to other components.

I grow tired of hearing this nonsense.
People who market things from China often take liberties with the specifications. Marketers in the U.S. are absolutely no different. (Case in point- the mileage estimates on every new car).

So, if the marketing spec says 700mA, then I feel comfortable at 500mA.

If you think everything from China is crap, then stop buying anything electronic because no one else is making it at the price level you want to pay.

Relax. I was using the term sarcastically. (if you've been following along, you will see)

Behind every Chinese manufacturer, is some foreign entity that doesn't want the cost and hassle of regulatory compliance. They'll literally build you anything you want, at any level of quality, without the inconvenience of the "not in my backyard" crowd.

No, we think in terms of switchmode "buck" regulator modules.

But in this case, even that is ridiculously optimistic.

What the OP has not explained, is what voltage his secret power supply ("Wall wart") actually is. If it is 12 V, you would be lucky to get 200 mA out the the regulator before it overheats. (7 V drop at 200 mA = 1.4 W; prompt overheating. You might just get it to work with a 9 V supply at 200 mA = 800 mW.)

Almost all of the electronics we currently purchase is of Chinese manufacture, particularly the individual components. :roll_eyes:

More education needed. Example, please. I want to know exactly what "those in the know" use.

I'm not really sure why the snarky response. Not sure that anyone asked. But since you did, in the least possible direct way, I'll just tell you. It's a Class 2, 9V, 400 mA.

I'm hoping this comment isn't aimed at me. If it is, let me know so that I can count to ten before replying. :expressionless:

Merely pointing out the "rule of the game". :grin:

Critical information you fail to provide prevents readily figuring out the problem and slows down the back and forth process. Mind you, on reviewing the thread, I see that you did specify 9 V in #3. That was a getting to be a long way back. Oh well. :pleading_face:

So about those regulator modules... (keeping it on track, and losing the distractions)

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