@moogbeatz99,
You can take the innovators approach to getting an arduino:
Buy a bootloaded ATMega328,
16 MHz crystal, two 22 pF caps, three 100nF caps, 10K resistor and a 28 pin socket, piece of male header strip and a protoboard from www.dipmicro.com, and a FTDI-Basic from www.gravitech.us for downloading sketches, and just build up your own.
Maybe add a 40-pin female header with the 20 IO signals (D0-D13, A0-A5 (a.k.a. D14-D19)) and some power/grounds, maybe reset if you need it.
5V/2A power adapter to power it, plug into a 5.5mm/2.1 panel mount power jack from www.mpja.com or partsexpress.com 5.5mm - 2.1mm Coax Power Jack - Panel Mount
if you don't want to cut the end of the power cord.
I think all can be had for less than an arduino, and you get the fun of building it up also.
Then add option like a power LED with 10K resistor, a "D13" LED with 1K resistor if you want an activity indicator.
Really, just basically build up the cirtuit of a Promini. Piece of cake.
thanks for the advice dude. i may eventually make one for a permanent installation of something i make, but my birthday is legit today, so i think my parents may have bought me the sparkfun starter kit.
The reason for defining a name for a pin with #define has nothing to do with it being an input or an output or analog or digital or even being a pin.
The point is that good programming practice is to never put arbitrary hard-coded numbers into code when those numbers are not universally fixed. Here we have code using an arduino pin. Some people might want to use one pin, some people another pin. Rather than have to hunt through the actual code to find which pin numbers to change you just have to rewrite a few #defines. The code just refers to the pin by name.
Ideally these #defines ought to be in a header (.h) file to further separate code from configuration data...
That instructables code is just a bit sloppy, that's all.