Hi everyone,
Was wondering if anyone would be able to check my fritzing project for errors or mistakes. This is my first attempt and would like a send opinion. its a shield with two A4988 driver boards. with connections to an arduino uno and a separate
If your lines are circuit board traces, you will have to have a double sided board to separate the copper traces from each other.
The last picture is okey. The first two... Hopeless to analyze. In a murder cased a criminal detective might spend on digging into them.
Pay more attention to readable pin designations. Lots of drawing area is used for no good, showing white paper.
Why not show the total project? Way to often the total picture shows the flaws.
From the spec sheet of the A4988, it is a 2 Amp 35 volt device. https://www.pololu.com/file/0J450/a4988_DMOS_microstepping_driver_with_translator.pdf
Maybe try to make the power traces a bit wider.
Are you intending that it plugs into, say, a Uno ?
Either that, or replace some of the traces with isolated wires (which will turn everything into a bit of a mess).
all i have atm is one perf board and i need to get this right 1st time. perhaps i could solder two lanes together to make one +vcc and another for the gnd.
and yes, the arduino uno with have its own 5v supply, and the driver shield with have 30ish volts. cant remember the max voltage atm. im just trying to tidy my mess of wires as im slowly getting lost in them.
im very new to this. what do you mean "isolated wires"?
Just wires with plastic isolation which you use to directly connect two points on the board.
OK. So the what looks like a PCB design is not relevant at the moment.
The strip board tracks are normally heavier than standard PCB tracks to the comment about the thin tracks on the PCB may not be relevant.
oic. i was thinking of just wirewrapping. watched a video on it.
Don't even think about wirewrapping. That requires special square pins and special tooling. Think about using #30 insulated solid wire and soldering to make the connections
As you are using Fritzing there is a template for the UNO - if you used that as the basis , you could make a board that works as a shield and fits onto a uno.
For your board I would adjust and square up the tracks for neatness and there are some shorter paths possible for some of the tracks
There are already available motor shields , if you don’t want the hassle
Which is more than the recommended max of 35volt.
I would stick to 24volt, unless you need (not want) torque at very high step rates.
Leo..
I wonder if @creativesamurai1982 actually means a "shield" (as in fitting on top of a Uno) or is using the word more loosely to mean just a "module"?
The weird (mis-)alignment of the Uno pins makes making an actual shield a pitb.
I thought shield ment pcb prototype. sorry im still kinda new at this. i just want to tidy up my mess of wires but i really dont have any idea on how to do that. and limited funds. i have 1 perf board left and not much solder. so i cant get this wrong. i have 38v into the driver(driver has heat sink + fan support) and then that 38v comes off to a buck converter 10.8v to a drv8834 stepper driver(MAX Voltage) My Uno has its own +5v from external power. NOT USB.
This is my old setup. basicly, im replacing the old pref board which has the drv8834 driver with my new board(x2 a4988.
No, it's a press-on board that becomes one with the Uno, like this one for example where the shield's pins fit into the Uno header. But you can't do it with normal perfboard becasue the Uno pins don't line up.
i have that LCD board 
Me too, but I seldom use it. The serial LCD is a huge waste of pins although I like that the buttons only use 1 analog pin for all of them.
adafruit have the same thing in I2C although I never got one.
i upgraded my lcd to oled I2C and made my own analog button array for it.
