Did i brick this IC?

[mythn7]

So this is the first I see I've ever started actually this is the first soldering I've ever done at this scale till now I've only done things like wires that dangle or using solder in a more of a welding fashion.

So when I started this on I had noticed the one side hadn't been secured properly and it wasn't pushed in fully to the stops.

So I tried to use a solder braid to suck it all up so I can push that side in all the way but there was still enough inside the hole so I tried to use a tip I saw a few times on YouTube where you put a a hardwire or paper clip type thing that has any of the Coatings burned off for the lighter as solder to every single pin, and then applying heat to that wire to make every pin melt at once, either I did it wrong or my soldering iron just isn't capable of putting out the level of heat required, 425 Celsius is the max and I don't even know if it technically gets that hot, so basically I ended up having to now remove all of that solder and the wire.

Once I was able to get almost all of the starter removed from this attempt at trying to loosen the part with nothing more than a simple pen tip I just re-soldered it and added some extra solder on the top side where the pins didn't fully push in to the stoppers, the pins still had poked out the backside so it's probably not much of a big deal if I would have left it to begin with.

But because of the amount of heat I threw at that IC during this process I I'm concerned I just somehow made it defective from that standpoint.

Other things I'm concerned about is the copper underneath the PCB coating is starting to Sparkle through near those pin holes from most likely accidentally putting this solder braid to partially with the flux against the board itself.

And I accidentally brushed the capacitor beside the IC with the tip of the pen putting a little stuff on the plastic which makes me unknown if I only transferred residue from the pen or if I actually burned the plastic.

Aside from finishing the assembly and trying to power it on to see if there's internal issues, can anyone see if it appears to be fine and is only not looking the best.

[jremington]

@mythn7

it wasn't pushed in fully to the stops.

It doesn't need to be, as long as a good solder connection is made.

I don't see any obvious solder bridges, so power it up and see if it works.

Overheating can certainly damage an IC, but they are pretty tough!

[TomGeorge]

Hi, @mythn7

What is the project PCB, looks like a "DIYODE" magazine project?

Your solder joints look okay to.

Thanks.. Tom..

[Koepel]

You should have practiced on something else.

There are two things: mechanical and electrical.

The components do not need to be pushed fully in the board. If you can feel the pin at the back side with your finger, that is already enough.
Your resistors seems to be very tight to the board. That gives mechanical stress.

To de-solder a DIP package, you need good tools. It can be done with solder braid or a solder pump, but even I would not remove a DIP package with it. I would cut the DIP package pin by pin, then throw it away and de-solder every pin on its own. Then use a solder pump to remove all the solder and then solder a new chip.

Too much heat for the chip can damage it. I don't know how long you applied heat, but when I solder a chip and there is some trouble, then I stop applying heat after a few seconds.

Melting the plastic of the chip is no problem. The only problem is the fumes that you might inhale. I hope that you have good ventilation.

In the photos I see that most pins have to much solder and the solder does not flow very well. Did you buy cheap solder ? Or have you heated the solder too long with the solder iron ? A good quality solder has a good resin core to make it flow.

Overheating the PCB board is a serious problem. They fall apart with too much heat. A broken copper trace is hard to see. Your PCB board might be broken.

[mythn7]

Im not sure what exact board model it is it came as part of my beginner arduino starter kit, its called a 42 LED hourglass with fliping over sensor.

It says on the mini sub container of the whole kit that its a medium level sauder practice project.

I have a 2nd one that also came with, leds on a spinner tgat do something when you flick it, also says meduim level saudering practice item.

The kit i bought has the main part 14 tutorials arduino uno, and a addon sensor kit 7 tutorials, and then these 2 saudering projects where the ic comes pre programed with no IDE required, as the 2 lessons before installing the IDE.

[mythn7]

It is actually a sauder practice chaper as i pointed out in reply to the other user on whst board it is.

In terms of amount of heat, my pen only goes up to 400C it says, and bran new sauder melts instantly, but cured sauder on a braid takes like 10-20 sec to start liquify.

The one pics IC pins on the one side i added a bit on top, cause the pins lifted and were not in fully to the stopper elbow, and i thought that very narrow part of the pins which if put in properly would be clad in metal inside the hole, so i wanted to bulk that part up a tad.

I was not trying to take IC out, just luquify the 8 pins on the one side to push it down the 0.5 -1mm i had missed before it was all locked in place.

The heat i applied was about 18 inches worth of copper braiding 2mm wide size.

And about the same amount of pin heating as used on the braid when tried to soften the side to push it down more.

I know the only heat the stuff in the IC hot was from what the pins sent, i dident melt the black part what so ever.

All non pin touches were the pcb not IC.

I know that spot on the pcb where the cipper is speckleing threw a bit bt the 3 corner pins was from trying to attach a solid paperclip length cut to all the pins, to heat all pins at once.
Saw it on YouTube as a fix.

In terms of getting new IC im not sure how, as it was not needing any IDE to load it as its meant to teach saidering pre IDE install.

The one set of pins i added wxtra on purpose as described, the others i was told you want some sauder comming out of hole on both sides, reflow would not drain it past the hole lip on some pins from the other side so i added a drop or 2 to add that bit which dident drain down enough from only doing the one side of board.

Oh the resistor i pull down tight to the board on purpose, the looked as such on the sample pic for that step.

[DrDiettrich]

@mythn7

put a a hardwire or paper clip type thing

I prefer 0.5 mm pencil mines for cleaning holes. They don't take away much heat.

On double layer boards the holes may be used as VIAs, i.e. connecting top and bottom lines. In this case it's recommended to solder both ends of the pins, in case the copper coating was removed from the hole.

[Koepel]

A : Good. A resistor that floats in the air is good.
B : Not so good, the bending corner is too sharp. If you bend it back and it breaks, then it was too sharp.
C : Good. Tight to the board is good, as long as the wires are horizontal.
D : Bad. Very tight to the board, the mechanical stress has nowhere to go. A resistor does not break easily, but in my opinion it is bad.

[TomGeorge]

Hi,
Thanks for the info.
You kits are from this link;

OSEPP - DIY Soldering Project Kit

Tom...