Long story short, the Barrel jack will actually be a 11.1v lipo or 7.4v
Then stepped down so it can power the arduino and also power the solenoid, if someone presses the button this will activate the solenoid for the amount of time set on the arduino.
The diode is a 1N4007
EDIT: Removed the old confusing circuit and uploaded a new one below, hope this assists!
I think your drawing shows the (-) of the barrel to the motor. If that were wired that way, the diode would be forward biased.
Your bat (-) should go to Arduino GND and TIP120 Emitter.
Yeah, even though the project is quite simple, the drawing is not much help.
The colours and terminating points are confusing…
A schematic that follows some standards will help us comment, and help you understand your circuit.
Apologies for this, I was following an online guide thinking it was right (Photo below from the guide)
So this would also be wrong?
Edit: I've just realised my mistake!
So please post a new drawing. Consider other advice given regarding drawing method. If you want to continue using the drawing style given, at least use black for -, red for +, and something like blue for in-between.
Sorry about this, it's my first time using fritzing, I've now updated and hopefully made this easier to look over. Your opinion on it would be much appreciated!
Edit: I don't know if it's the upload of me but red and brown cables seem to be looking the same colour
Last try.
This is an NPN transistor. Collector goes to motor (-). Emitter goes to GND, and barrel (-). Motor (+) goes to barrel (+).
You shouldn't have a red and a black going to the barrel (-). That should be your first clue something's confused.
Why do you redraw the whole thing ? Use the original drawing and just add the Power supply (1 Positive and 1 Negative ) to the Barrels respective + and - points and + 5V to the Nano.
Does the job, though I don't know why either connection to the upper GND pin on the Arduino exists at all.
Do you know if the (-) is continuous through your voltage converter, at the bottom? That is continuous on the ones I've been using.
Thankyou for the response, it should be continuous, I just added it to be safe, Are you thinking I could just ground everything through the buck converter?
I wish people would stop using Fritzing. But that's me, an ol' fart.
You should not add an extra ground line.
just to show (off) how it can look as a schematics made in Kicad:
It doesn't look fancy Fritzy at all, but everything you need to know is there. The only thing not in line with your diagram is that buck converter, I replaced it with a 3 pin LDO regulator for completeness sake.
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