I have been trying to use a Dallas DS18B20, but so far I did not succeed. I have uploaded this program:
to my board ( a DFRobot Romeo 1.0), and this instantly feels (smells) wrong, like DS18B20 about to burn.
Can you tell me what is wrong with the way I wired the DS18B20 ? I uploaded the file with nothing connected to the board, then proceeded to actually connect everything in case the previous sketch would interfere with the DS18B20, then turned it on.
I annotated the photo because the parallax could let you think that some wires are incorrectly wired.
Antoino:
I annotated the photo because the parallax could let you think that some wires are incorrectly wired.
It really does look like you have the blue wire connected to the Romeo's Vin and not to GND, but if you're sure that's not the case, we'll have to take your word for it.
Nothing else looks wrong.
Are you sure you haven't accidentally connected the DS18B20 wrongly earlier on and killed it? Did you buy a spare that you can try? (Never buy just one of parts like this.)
In future, post your code here, between [code]code tags[/code], needless to say - don't send us to GitHub to find it. And the Github code is obviously slightly different to your's. If nothing else, it uses pin 2 and you use pin 3. (On Github, they call it a "port", but it's a "pin", not a "port".):-
// Data wire is plugged into port 2 on the Arduino
#define ONE_WIRE_BUS 2
That thread was a very interesting read, and the same symptom. It's a pity DarkLiKally didn't name the seller.
@Antoino, if I were you I'd immediately be ordering more from a different supplier. (A reputable one if possible.)
And please keep us informed of progress.
This is what I'm starting to suspect. It's not like it's supposed to be tricky to wire. I thought that I got i wrong the first time (because bottom view / pin order and stuffs), and I already have a "graveyard" of 4 of those components, because each of my test circuit is problematic. And I made very sure to wire them correctly.
My last test on a Ruggeduino shuts it down at startup with the exact same setup I mentioned in the first post. All of its IO are protected with resettable thermal fuses..
I bought it though Amazon and it came from Laos. I won't name the seller unless I'm 100% sure it's a fake.
Antoino:
This is what I'm starting to suspect. It's not like it's supposed to be tricky to wire. I thought that I got i wrong the first time (because bottom view / pin order and stuffs), and I already have a "graveyard" of 4 of those components, because each of my test circuit is problematic. And I made very sure to wire them correctly.
My last test on a Ruggeduino shuts it down at startup with the exact same setup I mentioned in the first post. All of its IO are protected with resettable thermal fuses..
I bought it though Amazon and it came from Laos. I won't name the seller unless I'm 100% sure it's a fake.
Well the second clue, to my mind, is that your's came from Amazon, and so did DarkLiKally's.
(Perhaps you could PM him/her and see if it was the same seller? That other thread is only a few days old.)
OldSteve:
Well the second clue, to my mind, is that your's came from Amazon, and so did DarkLiKally's.
(Perhaps you could PM him/her and see if it was the same seller? That other thread is only a few days old.)
OK I'll do it. Also I will send them back if the seller wants to (but I suspect he will reimburse them and tell me to keep them) and mark them with an exacto knife. I feel like giving a clue to the next unfortunate customer..
Antoino:
I feel like giving a clue to the next unfortunate customer..
I know what you mean. On eBay when I strike something like this, I always post appropriate feedback to warn future potential buyers. (I've had a few pretty interesting discussions with sellers as a result, too. :D)
OldSteve:
I know what you mean. On eBay when I strike something like this, I always post appropriate feedback to warn future potential buyers. (I've had a few pretty interesting discussions with sellers as a result, too. :D)
On the other hand I don't feel like returning the product because it will just waste the next customers time just as it wasted mine if he resells it, and maybe (y)ours as well (as in .. the forum). If they know it's fake, they probably don't mind reimbursing it without getting it back, because it has no value. It's just a TO-92 package with who knows what inside - he got for a fraction of the price..
Legitimate sellers most of the time ask me to keep the product if someone screwed the order or if there is a minor problem..
I think we are on the same boat, as my DS18B20 sensors have the same symptom. Wiring Ok and all 5 pcs what i bought from same seller are faulty. I got them from AliExpress. I have just tried to reload my order...guess what... The item is no more for sale. But the shop still exists. They seemed to be fair as at the first they sent the wrong sensor LM35 then resent the ordered items, but the fact is that none of the DS18B20 works.
I think we are on the same boat, as my DS18B20 sensors have the same symptom. Wiring Ok and all 5 pcs what i bought from same seller are faulty. I got them from AliExpress. I have just tried to reload my order...guess what... The item is no more for sale. But the shop still exists. They seemed to be fair as at the first they sent the wrong sensor LM35 then resent the ordered items, but the fact is that none of the DS18B20 works.
I eventually got around to trying out my ten so-called DS18B20 sensors from ebay.
First time around, I heard a pop ---- wasn't sure if it was from sensor or from wemos d1 mini at first, until I noticed a bit of a small indentation in the sensor's plastic casing. Anyway, none of the sensors were working. They all popped, sometimes smoked.
Initially, I thought I was destroying them by applying too much heat on the legs when adding a resistor across the data leg and the Vdd leg. So I ended up soldering the resistor across header board legs to avoid heating the legs of the sensor. But, when this didn't work, and things kept popping, I was figuring something ridiculous was going on. Ended up searching the net for details about similar issues....and stumbled on this thread.
UPDATE: I decided to put the very last 'sensor' into the transistor tester. I find that with pin 1 (GND), pin 2 (data), pin 3 (Vdd) plugged into emitter, collector, base (in that same order) for NPN transistor testing sockets...... I get an hFE reading of 344. And a diode test from pin 3 (assuming high-side) to pin 1 (assuming low-side) gives 624 milliVolt.
Same old problems.
Buy a DS18B20 from Farnell, RS, Digikey etc. etc Costs more, but might be made by Maxim
Only three pins to get right. I can't remember if real DS's have Maxim printed, but they won't have Malay
When you get that working, try the cheap ones, but hardly ever worth it, taking into account the grief of not getting anywhere.
I bought some cheap 328P-PU's on Amazon, bootloaded it said - powered up, nothing
None of the Maxim ones I've ever used have got warm, despite some dodgy wiring at times.
Some of mine say JR Ewing, but definitely not MALAY - 2 out of five for MA.
It beggars belief that there are people out there churning out this stuff. But then there are highly talented people who spend their time hacking into systems and sodding up innocent people's lives. It will be interesting to see what Trump has on offer.
