ESP8266 wifi LED not shining at all

Hi everyone, I was trying this wifi shield on Arduino Uno Plus, following this tutorial.

Wiring is:

ESP8266 | Arduino

3v3 & EN | 3v3
Rx | Tx
Tx | Rx
GND | GND

After the wiring and Arduino pluged in, I couldn't get a response by typing 'AT' on the serial monitor, and the wifi shield LED didn't turn on. What is the problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Hi everyone, I was trying this wifi shield on Arduino Uno Plus, following this tutorial.

There's no such thing as Arduino UNO Plus. What you probably means is a Waveshare UNO Plus. As this is not original Arduino hardware (and not fully compatible with the UNO R3) you should provide a link to it.

Wiring is:

ESP8266 | Arduino

3v3 & EN | 3v3
Rx | Tx
Tx | Rx
GND | GND

The ESP8266 runs on 3V3. Connecting the TX/RX directly to it's equally labeled Arduino counterparts may have fried the pins on the ESP.

The tutorial you followed might have used another ESP8266 module (there are probably hundreds of different boards available) which uses level converters as he writes that he powers the ESP with 5V and not 3V3.

Thanks for your kind reply.

pylon:
There's no such thing as Arduino UNO Plus. What you probably means is a Waveshare UNO Plus. As this is not original Arduino hardware (and not fully compatible with the UNO R3) you should provide a link to it.

The board was bought from a local store, as I haven't noticed, it was not made by the original manufacturer. Waveshare has the exact board I've own. (development board compatible with the Arduino UNO R3)

pylon:
Connecting the TX/RX directly to it's equally labeled Arduino counterparts may have fried the pins on the ESP.

If the pins on ESP are fried, does it mean that ESP is damaged and I had to buy a new one?

By the way, I found that the LED actually had a blue flash at the moment 3v3 is plugged in and pulled out.

If the pins on ESP are fried, does it mean that ESP is damaged and I had to buy a new one?

Unfortunately this is possible if you run the Waveshare board on 5V while it was connected to the ESP. If you have the supply voltage switch always in 3V3 position we have to look for other problems. According to the datasheet, running an ATmega328p on 3.3V at 16MHz is outside the specification. So there may be problems because of that.

By the way, I found that the LED actually had a blue flash at the moment 3v3 is plugged in and pulled out.

That usually doesn't mean anything. That flash just shows that the board has internal capacitance which is discharged at the moment of providing power to the board.

I am sure the voltage is always plugged into the 3v3 position.

pylon:
According to the datasheet, running an ATmega328p on 3.3V at 16MHz is outside the specification. So there may be problems because of that.

How should I deal with that, please?

How should I deal with that, please?

Unfortunately you cannot. You could run the board on 5V but then you get the problems I outlined earlier.

Do you know the ESP has a firmware loaded that let it react on AT commands? There are dozens of different boards on the market and only a small part of them has such a firmware factory-loaded.