first pcb try

SirNickity: Here's my latest project -- maybe it can provide some inspiration. Or maybe I just swapping project photos with people. :-)

I like your boards. You are a lot smarter with additional silkscreen printing and copper pours than I am. I hope I get to be that good sometime soon.

Somebody in another forum suggested MyRO as a fab house.

I've used Myro. Been happy with their boards, I think their quality is better than PCBCart.

I would say Myro has same level of quality as US made boards (PCBFabExpress) -- but without the expensive US pricing.

It's a few dollars more expensive than other China fabs, but not a deal breaker. I'll use them again when it's time to re-order.

JoeN: I like your boards. You are a lot smarter with additional silkscreen printing and copper pours than I am. I hope I get to be that good sometime soon.

Thanks! :-) It just takes hours... and hours... of detailed work. And a willingness to throw a design away and start over when the layout starts taking more effort than it should. What works for me is to camp out on the couch in front of the TV with my S.O. and poke away on my laptop. This set took me about a month, working for a few hours a night. Not every night, but many of them. I'm kind of OCD though.

vasquo: I've used Myro. Been happy with their boards, I think their quality is better than PCBCart.

Good to know. The published prices look almost too good to be true, but that's probably just shock after paying $300 for the last batch. :fearful: I had to click "Submit" with my eyes closed on that one.

I regularly order $300-$700 worth of boards. My last order with Myro was $650 (for 100 boards, gold immersion pads and fingers, cutouts, routed shape, it's a big board). Still cheaper vs. US based companies.

Myro is based from Canada, but their actual PCB fab is in China.

I just put in my first order at this place:

http://dorkbotpdx.org/wiki/pcb_order

They are supposed to come back from the fabricator in about a week. Pretty good deal considering the fast turnaround and tight board specs. It is also nice that I can just send them my eagle board file and they will take care of creating the gerber files from it. Cost me about $14 for 3 double sided boards.

Well many thanks for all tips and help. I dont know why pcb shows without pin 8 connected, since it's connected to gorund in the diagram view :o (maybe fritzing sucks) I will try to do it single side only and will post diagram and pcb here so you can review it

@pwillard yes i'll use laser printer toner transfer method if i need some help i'll get in touch with you. thanks

As you can see in the diagram, pin 8 is connected :o
why didnt fritzing connected it at pcb view ?
thanks

CrossRoads: Is diptrace the program that is being discussed elsewhere in the forum, it bypasses some of the windows security settings as part of the installation?

They've commented in the EEVBlog forums that this was an inadvertent setting in their installer, and they've uploaded a corrected version. FWIW.

You don’t have that Gnd connected to the other grounds either. How do you add a Ground plane?

RE Post # 26 Pin 8 is connected to the crystal loading capacitors.. Only there is no visible net label or a ground symbol. While the cad program (Fritzing) might connect the pin labeled ground on the IC to ground, the pin isn't labeled so you got exactly what you put down. If you label that net as ground and do a copper pour it will fix the issue.

Bob

I'm trying changing it to single side now :) question: what's the package for 1uF capacitor (options are from 100mil to 300mil THT electrolytic) also for 22pf capacitor (options are 100mil and 200mil)

Also, i didnt understood exactly what you mean by labeling net as ground... (my native language is portuguese, so maybe that's the problem of understanding specifical/technical english words)

Package sizes depend on the packages you choose. I have 100nF caps in both 0.1 and 0.2" lead spacing, for example. You have to check the datasheet for the part you intend to stuff the board with.

If I had to guess, I would pick 100mil for the 22pF and 1uF electrolytic, since that’s about what mine are. You can always bend the leads if necessary, although that’s more difficult for electrolytics due to the typical form factor of the part.

"If you label that net as ground and do a copper pour it will fix the issue." Assuming one knows how to do a ground pour in fritzing. The pin and the caps do not look connected on the board drawing presented earlier.

Ok, so i tried (hard) lol this is the result.
would you mind checking if everything’s ok ?

Where are the 0.1uF caps on the VCC and AVCC pins? Figure out how make a ground plane, ground pour, whatevet fritzing calls it. Top & Bottom layer.

Oops, forgot to put those. Ok, i'm going to do a little research on that.

Ok, now it’s where i start to freak out LOL
I already connected the crystal load capacitors ground directly to arduino gnd instead of going through the switch.
I added decoupling capacitors, is it like that? :cold_sweat: (attached image)

About ground plane/pour, i couldnt find anything that would make me understand what i need to do.

(i’ve attached fritzing project just in case someone has it installed and is willing to show me how it can be done)
thanks

master1_another.fzz (59.7 KB)

A "Net" is a set of interconnected points like ground. Nets get names from 2 primary places one is the symbols connected. For example a ground symbol is enough to create a net called 'ground'. The second source is the pin numbers assigned to an IC or other part.In the example I pointed out the error was in not editing the net created by interconnecting those 4 symbols, 2 caps a crystal and a processor. Finally there will from time to time be net names you will create or modify to fix/add/modify circuit connectivity (the netlist).

Bob

Ok, I took a few minutes and did the most painful think I can think of… I used Fritzing. OK, My opinion of this tool is 1) it fills a need 2) It doesn’t do a great job of filling that need 3) it needs to get beyond what I consider DUPLO block stage. It lets you do bad things. Ok, lets just say… I am not a fanatic about Fritzing and leave it there…

Step 1, I tried to make sense of you schematic… and realized it was unfinished. Anyway… I will post what I did to see what it should have looked like. Schematics are not always about “showing ALL wires” even though that is what you might think. Using the convenient GND “net” and +5V “net” can greatly simplify a schematic… see my example. Your drawing, sadly, showed signs of thing being moved and creating “crazy wires”. (Note: Fritzing file still has an error in Schematic… see if you can find and fix it.)

Step 2, I cleaned up your PCB. Here’s some tips… always try a few routing paths not just the first one you see… your first pass might not be ideal. be prepared to “rip up” work. When doing single sided boards… always strive to keep jumpers to a minimum.

Also note: My “fixes” are not the BEST I can do… I only have so much time on my lunch hour. I just wanted to show a cleaner PCB layout. Notice that I use more of the board. If you are going to have that much “real estate”, no sense making all kinds of bendy wires…

master1_3rd_try.fzz (47.3 KB)

Nice rework. I'm 100% sure all my remaining complaints are directed toward the tool, not the designer. ;-)

OP: Do yourself a huge favor and give some dedicated PCB design packages a shot. There are a few common ones that get mentioned around here. Eagle being the most popular, but possibly most complicated, of the free(-ish) ones. Fritzing is a nice tool to graphically depict a design you have on a real-world breadboard for others to look at, but IMO, not much beyond that.