I've been trying to get this barebones/standalone arduino thing down. I took the ATMEGA 328 off and arduino uno, so I know it's good and that the blink program is running correctly. I followed the tutorial on this site (minus not having a reset button), but can't get my breadboard version to work! I attached the photo of the tutorial setup and my set up. Can you help me figure out why I can't get the (lower right) LED to blink? The (upper left) power indicator LED comes on fine when I plug in the 12 V.
Thank you for your time. And sorry the wire colors are mix and match, that's just what I have atm.
Need a 0.1uf cap between vcc+gnd and avcc+gnd, right next to the chip. Without these, it may be unreliable - this may not be your issue- as it sometimes works (depends on stray capacitance and process variation) without them, but it could be.
It is intensely frustrating how many tutorials omit this critical component
Could I recommend a better tutorial? I did the site tutorial in 2012 and it was like getting dental work done.
Later on, Nick put this up on his blog:
www.gammon.com.au/breadboard
His software is easier to use and covers many AVR chips. He shows many variations including using internal clock source and gives useful explanations, a complete path of how, why, and what.
He also covers making a breadboard "Mighty 1284" duino. That chip is now less than $6 ea (plus shipping for your total order) where the 328P-PU is almost down to $2 ea. I just hope they keep making them in through-hole DIP form.
MIT High/Low Tech is just High/Low Tech now. They have a good tutorial on ATtiny45 and 85 chips, down towards $1 ea.
What value is that led series resistor? I can't make out all the colour bands. It could be way too high. Take that wire leading from the led to the Arduino pin and connect it to 5V. Does the led light up?
Your crystal - it's hard to tell which breadboard holes its inserted into. Should be the same rows as the two caps.
I don't have a dmm at the moment but will try to borrow one. I'm sure of the LED polarity and I'm pretty sure the power is good (since the power indicator LED is lit). I guess my last shot is to try adding the 0.1uf caps...
Thanks for the advice, I will reply again when I get my hands on them.
mdlambert:
I don't have a dmm at the moment but will try to borrow one. I'm sure of the LED polarity and I'm pretty sure the power is good (since the power indicator LED is lit). I guess my last shot is to try adding the 0.1uf caps...
Thanks for the advice, I will reply again when I get my hands on them.
The power LED is connected to the input volts before the 5V regulator.
Use the other LED, that you have as the output LED, and see if you have 5V on the side rails.
Move wire from the output pin of the 328 and connect it to the positive (red) rail so that the LED is across the power rails.
Tom..
mdlambert:
I don't have a dmm at the moment but will try to borrow one.
I really recommend buying one. It's probably the most important tool in your electronics toolbox. My first DMM was about €10, probably the cheapest one they had in my local hardware store, but it was one of the best investments I've ever made in electronics.
PieterP:
I really recommend buying one. It's probably the most important tool in your electronics toolbox. My first DMM was about €10, probably the cheapest one they had in my local hardware store, but it was one of the best investments I've ever made in electronics.
Pieter
My first digital MM had beep on continuity so you didn't have to watch the screen. Worth every cent.
Have you tried fitting the chip back into the UNO and checking operation, to ensure that it hasn't somehow been damaged while you were setting up/testing the breadboard circuit? (Unlikely, but you never know.)
