Yes the current is the stall current. The main spikes on the motors is when they start up and when they push a dart threw. When I was reading other posts on these motors, that is what they say to base your mosfets off of and with 2 of those motors you are at about 94 amps on one mosfet. I have not played around with those motors yet. What is usually done for the Honey Badgers and the Rhino is just use a 15amp switch with 18 gauge wire and that has no problems. I heard that you can just use a 15-20 amp switch and should be all set with wolverines.
I believe that using MOSFET is something new that people are starting to use in nerf. Using a MOSFET in the build let us keep the cheap switch that nerf has instead of putting a 15 amp switch in. The MOSFET I linked was suggested by someone, which would be overkill for the smaller motors, but you could put any motor that you want in and it wouldn't destroy the circuit.
As far as the braking, the pusher is the one that i think should have it. The other two motors that push the dart out is usually a user preference. To start up the motors for a second shoot will take longer than motors that has braking on it, but it quite down so much more. This is good if you fire off a couple of shots and want to hide. These motors are anything but quite.
I got the idea from the last breadboard that I built from Airsoft people adding breaking to their guns. I could not find anyone that showed how they did it, just that it was working. After looking at a couple of bad images and really bad quality youtube videos.
For the suggestion of 12-15A range. How would I go about building this?