FYI Making DuPont jumper wires.

I thought others might be interested in this discussion making DuPont jumper wiring.
Attached is a PDF file for the discussion.
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Making DuPont jumper wires.pdf (1.24 MB)

TNX, Karma++ :slight_smile:

Very nice!

Better than 99% of all "Instructables". Thanks.

Nice job. But why not let those nice people in China do it for you? The cost is very reasonable and downright cheap if you take time into account.

Weedpharma

weedpharma: Nice job. But why not let those nice people in China do it for you? The cost is very reasonable and downright cheap if you take time into account.

Weedpharma

Can you provide a link?

Can you get specific/custom combinations? (count and color?)

@LarryD - (karma added, nice job!)

xl97: Can you provide a link?

Can you get specific/custom combinations? (count and color?)

@LarryD - (karma added, nice job!)

For general purpose leads, what you can get from China are suitable. Various or fixed lengths, rainbow colours, male and female combinations are all available.

Of course for specific cable lengths or colours DIY is the way.

http://www.dx.com/s/DuPont+cables

Weedpharma

Thank you.

I believe most here make their own cabling, at least if you are seasoned. It is nice to have the ability to make your own wire lengths to conform to your project's dimensions.

I have some ready made wires I use with breadboards, most are 26AWG. However, when it comes time to packaging a project, I always make up my own wiring harnesses.

That's a very nice guide - I never knew about the strip serving a specific purpose. I think that will help significantly.

weedpharma: For general purpose leads, what you can get from China are suitable. Various or fixed lengths, rainbow colours, male and female combinations are all available.

Of course for specific cable lengths or colours DIY is the way.

http://www.dx.com/s/DuPont+cables

Weedpharma

That's a nice source - their prices for individual (eg, not ribbon cable) jumpers is reasonable, though you have to remove the plastic 1p housings they put on them (how obnoxious).

polulu sells jumpers with just the bare pins (ready to drop into housings) in various lengths - but at eye-watering prices. I'm looking at their white ones for a project, and the cables would cost more than the entire rest of the project combined, including the PCBs.

A few more additions.
I will add images to the PDF in post #1.

2016-02-05_13-16-48.jpg

2016-02-05_13-17-13.jpg

3.jpg

Hi, Nice Instructable; I will link to it on the ArduinoInfo.Info HERE: That also shows nice 3-pin cables that make it easy to connect servos and many other 3-pin devices.

weedpharma: Nice job. But why not let those nice people in China do it for you? The cost is very reasonable and downright cheap if you take time into account.

Weedpharma

For a large run, maybe but if one is building prototype, a DIY solution may be better while one experiment on what works. Plus DIY solution gets the cable in a few minutes. Cable from China may take a few weeks.

+rep for useful pictures. I have the right tool but I've had bits of trouble getting it done right. Leaving that sprue helps a lot on proper alignment.

PS what about ribbon cable? Typical ribbon cable have 0.05mm spacing which is fine for crimp on 2 rows connector like IDE cable but if you're doing single row cable, the spacing is off and if you don't trim the end at an angle you'd end up with middle wires a little lumpy.

You can get ribbon cable that is 24 or 22 AWG.
The ribbon cable I use in IDC connectors however, is 28 AWG.

I get all my jumper wires from multi-conductor cables like these:
2015-09-19_15-51-29.jpg

http://www.jst.com/pdf/JST_CrinpChart%20(English).pdf

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One more thing..... make sure to push the plastic tab in real good before inserting the wire/crimp assembly into the plastic casing. Use a tiny screw-driver or thin paper-clip, and push that tab inwards ----- right into the slot. Get a good inward angle on it. Do all this before inserting the metal/wire/crimp assembly into the plastic casing. Sometimes, wires slide out from the plastic casing only because the tabs were not properly pushed in (to get a good inward angle) to begin with.

jumperwire.jpg

jumperwire.jpg

Southpark:
One more thing..... make sure to push the plastic tab in real good before inserting the wire/crimp assembly into the plastic casing. Use a tiny screw-driver or thin paper-clip, and push that tab inwards ----- right into the slot. Get a good inward angle on it. Do all this before inserting the metal/wire/crimp assembly into the plastic casing. Sometimes, wires slide out from the plastic casing only because the tabs were not properly pushed in (to get a good inward angle) to begin with.

jumperwire.jpg

I've only had to do this when re-using housings that I've removed the pins from previously. On new housings, they've always clipped right in for me. Do you find this necessary with brand new pins?

I agree about doing this on reused sockets. New sockets work without having to do this.

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DrAzzy: I've only had to do this when re-using housings that I've removed the pins from previously. On new housings, they've always clipped right in for me. Do you find this necessary with brand new pins?

Yeah..... I've had el-cheapo ebay pre-made ones come out. It doesn't happen regularly though. Just sometimes. Eventually figured out what thing held these plastic holders in place hehehe. I found that after pushing the tab in.... deliberately poking it right in to give it enough inward lean... it stops it from popping out forever. Unless we get in there to pry it out again.