Just looking for feedback on any obvious errors before I fry my car or all the parts for this!
It's for an intercooler sprayer. Basically I have a small water pump, a temp sensor, and a pressure transducer. If the pressure and temperature both exceed a certain level, the arduino turns on a pump and sprays water on my intercooler for my car.
Parts:
adafruit 5V trinket pro
Pressure transducer (5v in, gnd, mv out, gnd)
ADS1115 breakout
generic ebay optocoupler relay rated to 30VDC
Windshield washer pump
resistance temp sensor
Resistor(still need to work out the value)
TSR1-2450 5V converter
Capacitor for filter on 5v converter input(need to look up value from TSR data sheet)
I used a photoresistor to represent the 2-wire automotive temp sensor.
I used a mosfet transistor to represent the 5V converter
used an electric motor to represent the pump
Anything I royally screwed up? Going to breadboard it soon, but I'll have to plug into my car to get the power. Working on a PCB design as well as I want to have something fairly nice and permanent once it's in.
Fritzing is nice because the different color wires make it a little easier to follow. It's not perfect, but for me it's better than a pencil sketch to refer back to.
aarg:
Don't run the pump power through the protoboard. Make direct connections to the relay and power jack.
That is part of the plan. It's actually an optocoupler relay, so it is entirely electrically isolated, besides the same source going to the DC converter as well. It's a totally seperate unit that will be bolted to a piece of plastic.
ApexM0Eng:
Post this at EEVBLOG forums and let them tear it apart, to get tons of info & learn.
Some stuff is like, having a protection diode for your inductive load pump.
Possibly transistor driving your relay.
And better transient protection from your battery than what you currently have.
ApexM0Eng:
Post this at EEVBLOG forums and let them tear it apart, to get tons of info & learn.
We do that here tooo.
Supply is not correct.
The 7805? is not decoupled at the output. It could oscillate.
5volt is fed into the battery input. That's pre onboard 5volt regulator. The 5volt rail will be drooping.
Why not use a 7808 (8volt regulator), and feed that into the battery input.
Then power everything else that needs 5volt from the 5volt pin of the Arduino (<150mA).
Two regulators inline is double security.
Motor could have a diode across, to kill back EMF.
Leo..
humming:
Fritzing is nice because the different color wires make it a little easier to follow. It's not perfect, but for me it's better than a pencil sketch to refer back to.
The problem is not actually with Fritzing - it is the way it is used that is the problem.
If you redraw your diagram without the breadboard the connections will be much clearer as we don't have to guess the internal connections within the breadboard.
Also you need to show what is (theoretically) inside switches so we know what wires are connected when switches are closed. The outer picture of the switch does not tell you that.
And make sure every pin that is used is clearly labeled so that people don't have to look up datasheets for transistors or such.
The 7805? is not decoupled at the output. It could oscillate.
5volt is fed into the battery input. That's pre onboard 5volt regulator. The 5volt rail will be drooping.
Why not use a 7808 (8volt regulator), and feed that into the battery input.
Then power everything else that needs 5volt from the 5volt pin of the Arduino (<150mA).
Two regulators inline is double security.
Motor could have a diode across, to kill back EMF.
Leo..
I caught this last night! thanks! plans is to use 7808 for input to the arduino and 7805 for everything else.
The diode will be added as well. Is it enough to just put it across the screw terminals the pump wires go into on the relay assy?
