They are also good for jumping over traces.
Prevents the need to go to the other side of the PCB.
I have zero ohms @ 1806s and 2010s too.
However, good old 30AWG wire wrap wire is fine also.
That's some 3D chess move there. Sounds like you could effectively double the layout potential (I don't know what the proper term is) per side with a maneuver like that.
Much better, anti-static SMD storage box system (aluminium is a static spark risk)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172824464592
Is there any suggestions regards to good random SMD fuses for low voltage? Is there any good 1206 size fuses?
Turns out the aluminum is actually very good.
The outer case (let’s call it a faraday cage) placed on a anti static mat prevents static problems with components.
Should be wearing a wrist strap when handling components also.
There are no good fuses.
If you use metal containers you have to pick up the container to ground it to your body (or have it on an anti-static worksurface to which your wrist is attached) before placing components in it or taking them out.
If you get it wrong (forget to ground yourself or the container) they pretty much guarantee destruction of the chip as the first pin to touch the metal undergoes a sudden step-change in potential before the others can catchup, Given static charge potentials are often 100's or 1000's of volts in dry winter conditions, this is clearly bad news.
Anti-static bags and containers have very high (but finite) resistance, allowing the first pin to contact to discharge the chip slowly without a sudden big voltage discontinuity at that pin, which is more forgiving of careless handling. For a beginner I recommend the latter approach, for professional electronics assembly full anti-static precautions every time.
In relatively humid conditions you can get away with really sloppy handling as static doesn't tend to build up then 
Years past, while working in the industry, we experienced quite a few problems with static destroying components.
Long story short, the solution was to store and ship parts wrapped in aluminium foil.
All problems with static disappeared.
This was before the advent of anti static bags, conductive packaging etc.
Our rule became wearing static straps and to use metal shielding.
Fast forward to today, this early discovery is still applicable.
A static strap should always be used to prevent problems as such.
Its fun to go around with a sensitive electroscope during a cold spell in winter and see how much static can build up on insulating materials when the air is very dry.
I speak from a temperate climate where the air is normally fairly humid - in arid conditions static is a thing year-round.
Do something similar in the winter looking for cold spots in the walls and ceiling with an IR temperature sensor.
You can easily see where the insulation people left for coffee 
Re static: I’ve had good luck with a spray solution of anti static laundry additive and water to reduce surface static.
There are expensive commercial products to use also.
I see.
So normal glass/ceramic fuses with through hole stands is the way to go?
Fuses have their place, example a PC power supply you convert to a bench power supply might be 15 amps @ 5v. Car battery circuitry . . .
These we might be wise to fuse.
Most boost/buck converters are short circuit capable.
From memory, the last time I added a fuse to a circuit was when I made up a bench top variac 30 years ago.
I see.
Regards to the pcb adapter i think that simple is the best. Over all, it's just an adapter and it takes no effort to add an pulldown in the breadboard and or resistor to the gate.
So i thinking to just make an adaptor with footprint for the mosfet and three holes for the pins.
Maybe n multi board with a place for several package formats on same pcb with an jumper or so for connect the respective mosfet to the circuit? Just thInking here
I know
But i just have to make this myself. More fun
Making it yourself is good but I guess it would be way costlier than $3.00 ones.
Regarding BJTs, I have these in my toolbox:
2N3903/2N3904 (NPN) & 293905/2N3906 (PNP) – General Purpose Transistor
2N222A (NPN) – General Purpose transistor
BC547 (NPN) & BC557 (PNP) – General Purpose transistor
TIP120/ TIP121/TIP122 (NPN) & TIP125/TIP126/TIP127 (PNP) – High Power Darlington transistors
BC517 (NPN) – Darlington Transistor
TIP31C (NPN) & TIP32C (PNP) – Power Transistors
BD139 (NPN) & BD140 (PNP) – Medium Power Transistors
Actually it costs only 10 dollar for 64 pcs of theese included chipment. + the mosfet that costs 2 dollar for 50 pcs. Do the math
If you order more it becomes cheaper.
Wow, shipping is so cheap. It costs me $10 for just 5 PCBs from JLCPCB to India with shipping and that also takes 15 days to arrive. Other manufacturers charge even more.
just remember to activate "panelizing". It costs 4 dollar for 5 pcs boards with sizes up to 100x100mm.
I said wrong in my last post. Actually it costs 4 dollar for 5 x 64 pcs. Så its lot cheaper.
Btw, i use EasyEda and order from JLCPCB.
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