I am working on a personal project to build an autopilot for a sailboat using an ESP32, and I would like experienced people to review my schematic to check if I haven’t missed anything and to give me advice on what could be improved.
Power Supply: For the power supply, I am using two linear regulators to output 3.3V to power the ESP32 and most of the board, as well as the 1.8V required for the direction compass. I’ve included a MOSFET for protection against polarity reversal and indicator LEDs that light up when the power is nominal.
ESP32 Section: For the ESP32 section, I’ve included the minimum required components to be able to program the ESP32 via an external FTDI USB. Could you please verify that I haven’t missed anything (there are schematics all over the internet, and they all seem to differ)?
What do you predict your current consumption to be on the 3V3 supply? your linear regulator will dissipate 11 W at maximum battery voltage and 1 A current consumption. That's a lot of power for that package even if you've provided a heat sink.
Keep in mind that every time you change a voltage you are wasting the power being supplied by the battery. The linear regulators are the very worst wasters of power. Try to make all devices use a single voltage, preferably the highest possible. Then only a single voltage reduction is necessary. The higher the voltage, the smaller the wire size for distribution.
So, that means around 5 W normal operation. The TO-252 package you indicate you have chosen has a chip junction to case thermal resistance of 12 W/ºC so that's 60ºC temperature rise to the package surface. The data sheet doesn't specify the case to air thermal resistance but that will add to the chip temperature and doesn't help. I would strongly suggest you reduce the input Vcc to the regulator with a buck regulator that you can locate away from your circuit if EMI is a problem.
That will help. Since the factory data sheet for your regulator is not complete a suitable test might just be holding your finger on the chip when it is supplying the required current. You could add an additional linear regulator to reduce the input to your 3V3 regulator and retain the full battery voltage for the motor as well as solving your suspected EMI problem.
Edit: I just saw that you asked about that. the answer is yes.
What is the LED forward voltage drop when ON ?
What is voltage that powers the LED ?
What is the LED current through the LED when ON ?
Typically a 100nF (.1uF) ceramic capacitor is used.
Place this capacitor as close to the power pin as possible.
An SMD 1203 or 0805 package is commonly used.