Having trouble powering Arduino and my light fixture simultaneously

Edit:
Meant to post in General Electronics. Hopefully it fits ok here.
I've got a 1602 LCD display hooked up to an Uno to measure the potentiometer for my light fixture. The display shows the dimming percentage on the screen just as intended. Problem is, I cannot power the Arduino setup and my light fixture simultaneously. I think its because of the way I connected the potentiometer to the display AND my fixture. I simply soldered additional wires to the pot and connected them to my breadboard. I know this may sound stupid, but I wanted to at least try something and I couldn't figure out another way to do it. If I found a pot with the prongs you can insert into the breadboard, could I connect it that way and solder wires onto it to dim my fixture?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Here's a picture of the pot and my setup. The fixture is on, so the display is not, but it does work if I plug it in by itself.


Can you maybe retake those pictures and this time think about taking them in a way that people can see something in them? The first is a nice pic of a tangle of wires, but it is so dark it is impossible to tell whats connected to what. The second pic is a nice pic of a pot I think but again is so dark it is unusable.

What would be far more valuable would be for you to simply draw out a circuit diagram and post that instead.

I do notice a PP3 9V battery in there. You know those belong in smoke detectors right? They can't supply enough current to power much and in most Arduino projects those type of batteries are WAY underpowered.

Delta_G:
Can you maybe retake those pictures and this time think about taking them in a way that people can see something in them? The first is a nice pic of a tangle of wires, but it is so dark it is impossible to tell whats connected to what. The second pic is a nice pic of a pot I think but again is so dark it is unusable.

What would be far more valuable would be for you to simply draw out a circuit diagram and post that instead.

I do notice a PP3 9V battery in there. You know those belong in smoke detectors right? They can't supply enough current to power much and in most Arduino projects those type of batteries are WAY underpowered.

Thanks for responding! I've made a schematic. The 2 wires coming off the bottom-right pot go to the dimming leads for my meanwell drivers. Dimming 3 of them with a 25k pot and 10k resistor. This is what I think I'm doing wrong. I don't know how to connect the pot to the breadboard and my fixture in the correct way. Hopefully the schematic makes my situation more clear.


The image appears to have come out very small. Here's a link to the fzz file if that works better. http://fritzing.org/media/fritzing-repo/projects/w/wiring-schematic/fritzing/Arduino%20Schematic.fzz

Thanks for the tip on the battery. I will find a more suitable power source. Could that be the reason things aren't working as intended?

OK, I should have mentioned. Don't use fritzing. Nobody wants to try to untangle that mess of wires all the same color. Go grab a pencil and a piece of paper and make us a proper schematic. When you're done, back up and look at it and think, if I had never seen this project before would I be able to follow along from just this?

Even knowing how everything should be I doubt it's possible to build the project based on that Fritzy spaghetti image!

Delta_G:
OK, I should have mentioned. Don't use fritzing. Nobody wants to try to untangle that mess of wires all the same color. Go grab a pencil and a piece of paper and make us a proper schematic. When you're done, back up and look at it and think, if I had never seen this project before would I be able to follow along from just this?

Ok, I hope this is satisfactory. If its not, I'll assume I've been given up on and you all have moved forward with your lives, lol.



I think the issue is in how I'm connecting the potentiometer to the breadboard AND the dimming lead for my driver. I simply soldered additional wires to the pot and connected them to the breadboard. I know that can't be right, but how on earth do you do it properly? I'll definitely be replacing the battery thanks to Delta G, so that's a positive result from posting this thread.

I'm nervous my hand drawn schematic is going to get shot down like my last attempt lol.

Much better, at least now it's possible to actually follow leads and there are values for the components given.

One major oddity is the "dimming lead" which is does not seem to be connected to any signal, just the + and - lines (through a resistor).

I don't understand your hookup to the driver, only 2 wires, one from the negative bus and the other from the + bus with a 10k resistor in series ???
And you don't show where the power supply comes in.
Anyway, an A and Karma point for effort. :slight_smile:

wvmarle:
Much better, at least now it's possible to actually follow leads and there are values for the components given.

One major oddity is the "dimming lead" which is does not seem to be connected to any signal, just the + and - lines (through a resistor).

outsider:
I don't understand your hookup to the driver, only 2 wires, one from the negative bus and the other from the + bus with a 10k resistor in series ???
And you don't show where the power supply comes in.
Anyway, an A and Karma point for effort. :slight_smile:

The dimming lead is connected to (3x) HLG-320H-C1050B Meanwell drivers. The driver also has a A/C and D/C lead in addition to the dimming lead depicted in my schematic. The A/C is connected to one power coord and the D/C is connected to my LEDs. I have the 10k resistor in series because I want to dim all 3 drivers with one pot, so 25k pot and 10k resistor works.

I'm glad my schematic is acceptable. I actually enjoyed making it!

Edit:
I noticed I labeled the pot in my schematic as 100k, it is actually 25k.

As long as lines can be followed it's generally fine. Fritzy is too much resembling spaghetti for that.

That dimmer line as it is sketched is not controlled at all. One side with resistor to +, the other side to -, the 100k pot is not doing anything to control that line.

wvmarle:
As long as lines can be followed it's generally fine. Fritzy is too much resembling spaghetti for that.

That dimmer line as it is sketched is not controlled at all. One side with resistor to +, the other side to -, the 100k pot is not doing anything to control that line.

The driver has a dim lead with grey being positive and black being negative. I've got the positive wires grouped in a wago connector and the same for the negative wires. Then I put a wire in the connectors and connect it to the pot. Doesn't matter which wire goes to which side. It dims perfectly down to around 30% power, which is fine for its application.

Anyone got any ideas for this issue? I'd really like to get this going.