Help 16x1 HD44780 Cant Geit it to work

Hey all
I just got LED 16*1 displays off eBay and for some reason I can not get it to work :frowning:
I used tutorial here:

followed all as guided but now luck :frowning: I also tried to power up LED back light and it did not work (i looked at the PCB and realize that I have to swap + with - and now i have back light ,... but datasheet definitely is has error :frowning:

I used this display: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320537704468&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

how can I test is that board is working? Any debug suggestions? TNX!

You should have instead bought this for just $1 more:

http://cgi.ebay.com/HD44780-16x2-LCD-module-Green-backlight-Free-pin-header-/320537704484?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aa1893824

Twice the characters.

You need to post some pics of your connections and code you used. Just saying "I did everything the tutorial said" is not the right answer.

ok will become photographer in few min :slight_smile:
I actually was looking specifically for a single line display :slight_smile:

ok photos are attached and here is the code:

// include the library code:
#include <LiquidCrystal.h>

// initialize the library with the numbers of the interface pins
LiquidCrystal lcd(12, 11, 5, 4, 3, 2);


int ledPin = 13;                 // LED connected to digital pin 13

void setup() {
  // set up the LCD's number of columns and rows:
  lcd.begin(16, 1);
  // Print a message to the LCD.
  lcd.print("hello, world!");
  
  pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT);      // sets the digital pin as output
}

void loop() {
  // set the cursor to column 0, line 1
  // (note: line 1 is the second row, since counting begins with 0):
  //***lcd.setCursor(0, 1);
  // print the number of seconds since reset:
  //***lcd.print(millis()/1000);
  
  digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH);   // sets the LED on
  delay(1000);                  // waits for a second
  digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW);    // sets the LED off
  delay(1000);                  // waits for a second
  
}

Once you get it 'working' you will probably find that only the left half of your display actually displays anything. In that case you will have to set it up as an 8x2 and put the information for the right half of your display on the second 'line'. There's a complete explanation if you follow the LCD Addressing link at http://web.alfredstate.edu/weimandn.

Don

ok so if i send 16 characters to output now, i should get 8 outputted right?
so "hello world" has 11 characters and it I should at least see something on the screen and I don't :frowning:

ok so if i send 16 characters to output now, i should get 8 outputted right?
so "hello world" has 11 characters and it I should at least see something on the screen and I don't

Correct.

You could try following the tutorial at Arduino Tutorial - connecting a parallel LCD . If you get only 8 blocks when adjusting the contrast then you have one of the 8x2 type displays.

You may damage your LED and/or the Arduino output pin if you don't use a series current limiting resistor. Why did you connect an external LED to pin 13 anyway, there's already one on the board (with the appropriate resistor)?

Don

well seams that it what I have in terms of wiring BUT :slight_smile: LED backliht on my module is backwards otherwise it does not light up and on this pix

If varistor is adjusted you see segments, in my case nothing happens? Perhaps Pins 1 and 2 are swapped too? I didn't try changing +/- as i afraid to fry the board.

floresta:
Why did you connect an external LED to pin 13 anyway, there's already one on the board (with the appropriate resistor)?

Don

Someone some time ago posted such a tutorial on arduino website that tells everyone to stick an LED like that. (I tried to find it:() and it has not been removed since.

Your potentiometer seems to have 4 pins, does it? Strange. Plus, you don't need that resistor in series with the potentiometer. Do you have a multimeter to confirm the thing is a pot instead of something else? What is the value of the resistance?

liudr:

floresta:
Why did you connect an external LED to pin 13 anyway, there's already one on the board (with the appropriate resistor)?

Don

Someone some time ago posted such a tutorial on arduino website that tells everyone to stick an LED like that. (I tried to find it:() and it has not been removed since.

here is the link for sticking LED like taht
http://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/BlinkingLED

and no i dont needed it :slight_smile: i was just testing if my aurdrino actually executing something... i hate build in LED its not bright enough

as to potentiometer: it is actually 3 pin . There are big holding pins but they not connected anywhere (so i assume they sit there for mounting purposes)
Potentiometer is 10k, so i added another 10k resistor in series to achieve 10-20k as datasheet specifies. I measured and confirm that it what I get.

Also I measured voltage on Pin 3 of LCD to the GND, I get voltage ~3-5V depending on knob position

i hate build in LED its not bright enough

You could get some higher powered LEDs and use proper ways to power/control them:

liudr:

i hate build in LED its not bright enough

You could get some higher powered LEDs and use proper ways to power/control them:

Yes i have800- 5000 LM leds :slight_smile: http://www.tempgp.com/projects/LED/CrystalLumin_car_led_healights/
But at this point of time this is not my concern :slight_smile: I need to figure out why this LCD does not work :frowning:

Perhaps Pins 1 and 2 are swapped too? I didn't try changing +/- as i afraid to fry the board.

That was my original thought. I didn't mention it because if they are swapped, and you currently have them backwards, then you may have already fried the board and you should have felt heat and/or seen smoke. I have seen some LCD datasheets that do show these voltages reversed from the normal orientation. At this point it's worth a try swapping the connections. Put your finger on the IC or epoxy blob when you make the connection and remove the power if you feel any heat.

here is the link for sticking LED like taht
http://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/BlinkingLED

That's for an ancient Arduino, not for the last several versions. The page was last edited in 2006.

Potentiometer is 10k, so i added another 10k resistor in series to achieve 10-20k as datasheet specifies.

You misinterpreted the datasheet. They are saying that the value of the potentiometer (measured end-to-end) can be anything from 10K to 20K.

Also I measured voltage on Pin 3 of LCD to the GND, I get voltage ~3-5V depending on knob position

You need much less than that, typically around 0.3v. Remove the extra resistor.

Don

ok i just burned my finger :slight_smile:

So I swapped power connectors PIN 1-2 and IC got extremely hot, where in documented position it is total cold. So I guess i burned the module? I put power connectors back to described position and now it is cold again. [Good thing that I ordered 2units :slight_smile: ]

Now as to potentiometer. Mine is 10k end to end. So do i need extra 10k attached? (By end to end I mean on one end its ~0 Ohm and on another its 10K

As to voltage on pin 3 i dont know what to say :slight_smile:

yey :slight_smile: I removed extra 10k form the line and now I see 8 characters :slight_smile:
TNX!

Of course 1 of my unit is fried up :slight_smile: but other still works.

So now is there easy way to send text as 1 string rather then 2 separate lines? Like some sort of combining function?

Now as to potentiometer. Mine is 10k end to end. So do i need extra 10k attached? (By end to end I mean on one end its ~0 Ohm and on another its 10K

No you cannot use the extra resistor and expect the circuit to work. Connect one end of the potentiometer to pin 1, the other end to pin 2, and the center terminal to pin 3.

As to voltage on pin 3 i dont know what to say

Connect the potentiometer as I described above. With anything greater than a volt or so on pin 3 you will see nothing on the display (which is what you are seeing).

So I swapped power connectors PIN 1-2 and IC got extremely hot, where in documented position it is total cold. So I guess i burned the module?

They are pretty robust. If you removed the voltage immediately you may not have made it any worse than it already was.

Don

You slipped your response in while I was typing. Did you try your 'bad' display with the correct potentiometer wiring?

So now is there easy way to send text as 1 string rather then 2 separate lines? Like some sort of combining function?

Not that I know of. You will have to initialize it and program it as an 8x2 display.

Don

When I try to connect something for the first time, I stick my nose very close to the components to sniff around for a while to make sure no magic smoke is coming off the component. Unless it breaks in an instance, like an IR receiver I fried (I could feel the bang on my finger while inserting it into the board, and heard bang), you can save it by sniffing and touching it to see if it's happy there.

(I was too slow in reply)
As pointed out by floresta, the suggested pot value is 10 to 20Kohm TOTAL, not what you tried. If you can get the black boxes by removing the 10Kohm resistor and turning the potentiometer, you can proceed to the next step on the adafruit tutorial.

yey frid LCD came back to life :slight_smile: I didnt work few min ago but now it works same setup :slight_smile:
So i guess I all set :slight_smile:

TNX A LOT! :grin:

Now i need to figure out how to do cutdown timer script :slight_smile: But to keep the forums clean I will post tat in separtae section :slight_smile: