Help getting the FTDI to talk to atmega168.

So I'm working on a project that will be programed with the Arduino IDE. On my board I have a atmega168 in the TQFP form and the FT232R FTDI chip. Essentially I'm building an Arduino board but in the same size as a Diecimila I have the rest of my project. My board runs on 3.3V and therefore uses the internal 8MHz clock. I have been able to connect with AVRISP MKII and set the fuses to 8MHz, bootreset, and no div8. I then burned the "ATmegaBOOT_168_pro_8MHz.hex" bootloader because that seemed the most appropriate. My computer recognized the FTDI chip and installed a COM port. In Arduino I used the board "Pro or Mini (8Mhz, 3.3) atmega168" and got out of sync errors. I also tried almost all other board settings and a couple other boot loaders.
HARDWARE: Could someone proof this and see where I'm going wrong?

The left two 0805s are .1uF caps. Right of the FTDI, the two verticle ones are 1k and the lower horizontal is 100 ohm. Sorry if my board design seems a little unorthodox. I'm new to this and I make the boards myself so layers aren't as important.
Oh and those are not vias. Wire connections/jumps-It's a single sided board.

avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_disable(): protocol error, expect=0x14, resp=0x51

Thank you for your help.

I found that you connect the 2nd and 3th pin together ? I think you should connect the 2nd pin (DTR#) to the RESET of the ATmega with a capacitor, and leave the 3th pin(RTS) alone.

I was wondering about that. On the diecimila schematic DTR and RTS are both connected to reset through their own 100 ohms. I combined the two resistors for space reasons figuring it wouldn’t matter. On the duemilanove RTS is through a 100ohm and DTR is connected with a cap. I tried manually resetting with a cap but didn’t help. I have reset pulled up with a 10k.

WOOOOOOOOOOOOO FIXED! So I put a meter on the reset at the icsp and noticed that the line was low during the entire upload attemp. I replaced the 100ohm with a .1uF I had as extra and it works fine. Thank you ITead for your help. The diecimila schematic almost seems to be wrong then. Maybe a older FTDI chip or something. I also want to note for others if they encounter this problem that my avrisp had a blinking orange light when it was connected and power to the board was NOT connected. This would usually be red. Once power was applied to the atmega it went green (normal). This was non-dependent of whether the usb was connected.

;D :smiley: :slight_smile: ;D :smiley: :slight_smile: ::slight_smile:

The diecimila schematic almost seems to be wrong then.

If you look closer you will see that those resistors are marked as not being fitted.