Help with pro mini

Can't seem to upload a sketch?

When I plug in the USB a red light comes on the FT232RL FTDI programming board and two green lights flash on the Pro Mini.

Under ports (COM & LPT) it appears as "USB Serial port (COM6)"

I am using an Arduino Pro Mini Atmega328P 5V 16MHz and a FTDI FT232RL USB to TTL Serial Converter Adapter Module 5V and 3.3V, set at 5v.
I am using Ardiuno IDE 1.6.9
I am using drivers "CDM21216" for the FT232RL FTDI programming board, and I got two green ticks after install.

error:

Arduino: 1.6.9 (Windows 8.1), Board: "Arduino Pro or Pro Mini, ATmega328 (5V, 16 MHz)"

Sketch uses 1,066 bytes (3%) of program storage space. Maximum is 30,720 bytes.
Global variables use 9 bytes (0%) of dynamic memory, leaving 2,039 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 2,048 bytes.
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 1 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x7c
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 2 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x7c
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 3 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x7c
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 4 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x7c
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 5 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x7c
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 6 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x7c
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 7 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x7c
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 8 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x7c
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 9 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x7c
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 10 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x7c
Problem uploading to board. See http://www.arduino.cc/en/Guide/Troubleshooting#upload for suggestions.

Please provide a link to where you bought the FTDI stick, a wiring diagram between the stick and the arduino and put your error log in [­code][­/code] tags.

lg, couka

Try telling the IDE that it's one of the other Arduino boards that has a '328p - the Uno and Nano...

Each board has a different bootloader on it, but the chips are identical, and it's not unheardof for clones to ship with the wrong bootloader (often Optiboot, the Uno bootloader - which happens to be strictly better). In these cases, while you can reburn the "right" bootloader, you can also just keep using them as is, and just select the different board in the IDE.

Many people (myself included) bootload nanos and pro minis as Unos to use the better bootloader (optiboot uses only 512 bytes of flash, instead of like 2k that the pro mini's stock bootloader uses, and is a little faster to program)

Thanks for the tip, I'll give that a try tomorrow. Do you know why these two mini pro boards have different names for the connectors? Maybe I'm hooking mine up wrong?

This is my one, from sparkfun. The names for the holes don't match the FT232RL. http://s33.postimg.org/tj4a15wmn/20160606_232803.jpg
This is the bangood version which matches the pin hole names on the FT232RL. http://s33.postimg.org/50sf86lpr/SKU066315_10.jpg

DrAzzy:
Try telling the IDE that it's one of the other Arduino boards that has a '328p - the Uno and Nano...

Each board has a different bootloader on it, but the chips are identical, and it's not unheardof for clones to ship with the wrong bootloader (often Optiboot, the Uno bootloader - which happens to be strictly better). In these cases, while you can reburn the "right" bootloader, you can also just keep using them as is, and just select the different board in the IDE.

Many people (myself included) bootload nanos and pro minis as Unos to use the better bootloader (optiboot uses only 512 bytes of flash, instead of like 2k that the pro mini's stock bootloader uses, and is a little faster to program)

The pinout is actually the same, only the labelling is different.
Edit: Didn't look close enough, thanks OldSteve.

I don't know for sure where the idea to label the outermost pins "BLK" and "GRN" comes from but my theory is that the color coding of ribbon cable is to blame.

lg, couka

OK thanks. Am I connecting it correctly? BLK -GND and GRN -DTR?
http://s33.postimg.org/tj4a15wmn/20160606_232803.jpg

couka:
The pinout is actually the same, only the labelling is different.
I don't know for sure where the idea to label the outermost pins "BLK" and "GRN" comes from but my theory is that the color coding of ribbon cable is to blame.

lg, couka

couka:
The pinout is actually the same, only the labelling is different.
I don't know for sure where the idea to label the outermost pins "BLK" and "GRN" comes from but my theory is that the color coding of ribbon cable is to blame.

lg, couka

No, the pinouts are not the same. Look closely and you'll see the difference. Some boards have the pinouts arranged backwards.

Looking onto the end of the boards in the linked images, one has TX second from the left, whereas the other has TX second from the right, (I have to turn my USB to TTL converter upside down to connect to my Pro Minis).


A Google image search for "Arduino Pro Mini" will show many examples of this.

@lifeofbrian. Despite the above, it sounds like you're connecting correctly:-

.....Am I connecting it correctly? BLK -GND and GRN -DTR?

Color comes from the FTDI cable used with early Arduinos:
http://www.ftdichip.com/Products/Cables/USBTTLSerial.htm
See page 10

These guys plug direct onto Promini's also.
One has mini-usb, one has micro-usb. I can testify that both work fine. I buy 10 and 20 at a time.
http://www.tinyosshop.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=186&filter_name=ftdi
http://www.tinyosshop.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=600&filter_name=ftdi

I design my boards with an FTDI Basic header so the modules can plug directly on for code debugging as you can’t debug via the ICSP header with Serial.print commands.

If the ICSP header had D10 on it, or if a connection was made, one could have a SPI UART/USB adapter:
FT220 or FT221:

FT220 in one-bit mode looks to be sufficient. Would need a library for it to be really useful.

lifeofbrian:
OK thanks. Am I connecting it correctly? BLK -GND and GRN -DTR?

Yes BLK is GND and GRN is DTR. Once you have those 2 pins oriented correctly, the rest just fall in line and it is a straight pin-to-pin hookup.

I recommend 2 things:

  1. Do the loop back test on the FTDI adapter. This means disconnect it from the Pro Mini, connect the RX and TX pins together on the FTDI adapter, and plug in the USB connector to your computer. Open Serial Monitor and type some sentences, and Send. Make sure the characters you type come back to you in the Serial Monitor. Also be on the lookout for extra text, such as “NON-GENUINE”

  2. Go ahead and solder a header on the Pro Mini and connect the adapter, then try it out and show us a picture of it actually connected together. It is typical to put the male header on the Pro Mini and the female on the FTDI adapter, and “FTDI Basic” adapters come with a female header. But it is ok to use male on the FTDI and female on the Pro Mini. I don’t know if you are doing this, but people have before simply inserted the pins of the FTDI adapter into the holes in the Pro Mini, and that is usually not suitable.

Using just pins can work, but you have to apply steady pressure while programming, and keep the pressure up until the programming is done. Much more stable to have soldered headers on both ends that mate, on can be connected with terminated wires from pololu.com or dipmicro.com.
examples
Pololu - Wires with Pre-Crimped Terminals 50-Piece 10-Color Assortment M-F 6"
Pololu - 0.1" (2.54mm) Crimp Connector Housing: 1x6-Pin 10-Pack
I have bags of wires and crimp housings in various sizes to make up different harnesses.

http://www.dipmicro.com/store/WIRE-JMP40FM
These can be handy, but I find fitting all the loose 1x1 housing ends onto other headers to be kind of irksome. Much easier to have the wires in one housing to plug in together.

@Crossroads

These can be handy, but I find fitting all the loose 1x1 housing ends onto other headers to be kind of irksome. Much easier to have the wires in one housing to plug in together

5 minute epoxy does a good job to convert those to a single housing.
Can add a carrier strip of plastic to the back if more strength is necessary.
Use tape to hold in place until solid.

Also helps to plug pins on a header while glue cures.

.

CrossRoads:
These can be handy, but I find fitting all the loose 1x1 housing ends onto other headers to be kind of irksome. Much easier to have the wires in one housing to plug in together.

Get the kind without the housings on the end, and some housings. (putting pins onto wire sucks, even with the right crimp tool - I don't recommend it. Just get prepinned cable and put housings on it).