Hooking up a 100 watt LED to driver properly.

This should be an easy one. I bought this driver/LED combo:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/370617905796

The driver is giving off 36VDC which should be sufficient. No light. Now, I only connected the outer terminals. The image given seems to indicate that maybe the inner terminals need to be connected too. Does anyone know if this is the case? Please look at the second and third images in the auction under "Please connect the driver and lamp according to the following picture."

I've had difficulty communicating with certain overseas eBay sellers so I decided to ask if anyone has hooked up one of these here first. I don't want to make addition connections of they are not necessary.

If you buzz them out, do they seem connected?

What are you planning for a heatsink?

This is funny: We will ship worldwide EXCEPT ... and the they list 47 (!) countries they will not ship to. Including China, even the item originates from: Item location: Shenzhen, China, China The CIA.gov world factbook shows about 240 flags of countries - so shipping to 193 of 240 is only 80% worldwide. Or maybe I'm just in the mood for an argumemt :)

Hi, First off, I have never used these LED's, but have used similar high power ones. I would advise you to make those connections because they are there for a reason. I would guess that the designers wanted the current draw to be through two different points and make sure that heat was spread more evenly throughout the heatsink. I am fairly sure the LED should be able to operate without two of each power and ground connections. Whatever safety margin these guys designed this LED with is 'probably' made with a minimum of one each + and - connection in mind. If you can, solder the correct wires to the pads, because if you don't, you may end up melting or overheating something you shouldn't. njs552

CrossRoads: If you buzz them out, do they seem connected?

What are you planning for a heatsink?

This is funny: We will ship worldwide EXCEPT ... and the they list 47 (!) countries they will not ship to. Including China, even the item originates from: Item location: Shenzhen, China, China The CIA.gov world factbook shows about 240 flags of countries - so shipping to 193 of 240 is only 80% worldwide. Or maybe I'm just in the mood for an argumemt :)

Sure, I have a pretty nice one that used to be connected to some Intel processor I use for this. It has about a 1" round thick copper metal pad and that goes to a 3 1/2" diameter 1 1/4" high or so huge circular heat sink with a freaking fan. Fan not connected just yet, I figured it was fine for testing.

I am not sure what you mean by "buzz them out". When I connect the multimeter across the inner terminals I do get 36 volts there too. Not sure what may be wrong yet...

Thank you for taking time to respond.

Found an image of my monster heatsink. The computer is dead but the heatsink lives.

I have to think that will do it... :)

Reversed wires, current sensor, thermal sensor??? without Good documentation It will be a long road for you... I don't know as I would want a 100 watt heat source in my house and if it was a must have Item it might be for my greenhouse or driveway. Hard enough to keep cool in a Southern California Summer as it is.

Doc

Docedison: Reversed wires, current sensor, thermal sensor??? without Good documentation It will be a long road for you... I don't know as I would want a 100 watt heat source in my house and if it was a must have Item it might be for my greenhouse or driveway. Hard enough to keep cool in a Southern California Summer as it is.

Doc

There just doesn't seem to be anything more to hook up other than the two wires to AC and the two wires to the LED. Not even a switch to flip, and the power supply is getting 120VAC and putting out 36VDC. I have it hooked up correctly according to their schematic, red wire (anode +36V) to the terminal with two holes. I could guess that the schematic is backwards and try it the other way, I guess, or hook up the two additional terminals. Other than that, not so sure what I might have done.

I bought this for some tabletop experiments. No real application, not going to be running it around the house continuously.

Go figure. I wired it in the reverse of the way that they show, +V going to the wing with one hole in it, it works fine. The only reason I didn't try it the other night is because I had soldered the power supply directly to the LED and didn't want to desolder it. I did that and now it works fine. The brightest whitest light I have ever seen out of an LED chip. Blinding!

You’d kind of expect that from 100 LEDs :wink:

I’ve got some of these

wired in 3 of them as an indicator - had to dial the current down to like 2mA because they were so bright.

Yeeeah I do know what you are talking about… I have a 1/2 watt led flashlight I got on Ebay (for 4.95) that is about 10% smaller that a 18650 battery and uses a “AA” cell for it’s operation… REALLY BRIGHT. I have a Bread board set up for a clock module for a time server for my “Project” and an "Ultra bright (> 20 K candela’s) that serves as my “Night Light” and it is drawing 10 mA from the 5V source. Great job on the Heatsink for that LED by the way, I was really impressed by the “re-purposing” of old crap and the sheer ingenuity involved… GREAT JOB Sir. Truly a nice piece of work be Proud of it.

Doc

The LED running:

Break out the shades 8)