I'm using the following components in a remote sized 3d printed object. I've tried to minimize the size however there are still tons of wires everywhere which make things too big. Is it possible for me to retain all of the complicated algorithmic code I've already written in Arduino IDE and simply get a Arduino based custom printed circuit board with all this stuff on it? Ultimately I need all this to fit into a TV remote size. If you could point me in the right direction I would greatly appreciate it!
Start by drawing the schematic with pencil and paper then draw it in a PCB design program such as EastEDA or KiCad, then you can convert it to a PCB design and have it made by a PCB manufacturer
I am saying that based on the tone and contents of his query it sounds like he has a lot to learn and should be prepared to do that learning. Many, many have done it so there is no reason why he won't succeed but it will probably be a bumpy ride
The GPS and Radio Modules should probably be left as modules, because they have fancy requirements (some technical, some legal) that make it particularly difficult to do on your own. The display probably as well.
The voltage detection module appears trivial, and there are smaller voltage regulators circuits (although it might still make sense to use a module. And there are smaller modules., like https://www.amazon.com/MP1584EN-DC-DC-Converter-Adjustable-Module/dp/B01MQGMOKI )
Thanks for the link on the smaller voltage module.
I have indeed removed all the pins and solder directly to the board. I have been using the standard dupont cables (image below) to hook up everything then pack into the enclosure. I quickly realized that these are too big and take up too much room. So I moved to use the 30 guage wire image below as well. Made the wires much shorter than what you see in the image. It's a freaking mess that I have to pack and hope that the wires don't come loose when I pack it up. It's so delicate. I used hot glue to secure the wires to the board in addition to the solder. Keep in mind I also have 7 linear hall effect sensors involved in this design which adds more wires. There's gotta be a better way.
You can design it with software. But first I recommend you to draw a pcb with pencil . Then you set up full wiring in note book. After you can try it practically or virtually using some software.
Whilst drawing the schematic on paper has some plus points such as getting straight in your mind exactly what is connected to what it is merely an abstract representation of the project. There are no constraints as to how you set it out. There are conventions such as GND is generally at the bottom of the schematic and positive voltages at the top and inputs are generally on the left and outputs on the right with the signal flow being from left to right
When drawing the schematic in the PCB design package you will create the PCB nets required to implement the circuit and give the nets names to be used in design rules checking and designing the PCB
When it comes to designing the actual PCB you then take advantage of the ability to move real size representations of components, modules and external connectors around in a 2D space to fit your physical requirements. Doing this with the nets visible will also give you some idea of how easy it is going to be to route the PCB tracks
Then, finally, you route the PCB tracks taking advantage of the visible nets, the use of colour to represent tracks on different layers of the PCB and the ability to add vias to aid routing and to do a design rules check. If you draw the PCB manually you get none of these advantages
It is a controversial subject, but if the components and modules have been laid out to meet the physical requirements then it is possible to use the auto routing capability of many PCB design packages to do the routing for you
What does this device do and did you do a full integrated test with all those components before attempting to squeeze it all in that container ?
You'll be getting quite short of Arduino pins with all those modules/sensors. Don't forget you can use A6 and A7 as input (analog) pins.
Also, you'll have some constraints with the layout. For example, the ceramic patch antenna of the GPS module should face upwards and clearly the screen should be visible. If it is powered internally, you'll want an on/off switch. Maybe the Hall effect sensors have to be placed in specific locations. Not all those components would necessarily be on the PCB.
You've already had advice about rationalising the component count by unifying the voltage (if possible) and about the "voltage sensor" which is , effectively, just two resistors.
I'd suggest first posting the schematic and checking out if/how to reduce the component count.
I am only the third person to say this: Start with a schematic.
When you post your schematic, a hand drawn circuit in jpg or png is far preferable over a pretty Fritzing picture. A schematic is way simpler and easy to understand than a physical layout. The schematic is a functional description describing the flow of operation. The symbols actually describe functions and are read as such, something Fritzing does poorly. Using Fritzing will reduce the pool of folks prepared to even look at your problem. Do not hurry drawing a schematic, it is a very valuable tool to help you and us understand your project.
The transition from a "rat's nest" of wires to a PCB has taken me several iterations. The first attempt was complete junk ... too many errors with tracks crossing or open circuit connections. Fortunately, the fabrication ( in China ) of a few prototype boards is cheap. I hope to ( one day ) fabricate production versions at home in the UK. If you are planning on making more than just a few copies of your project, PCB is the way to go. I also opted to use SMD components so that future mass production would be easier to scale up to meet ( wishful thinking ) demand. Good Luck. I use Number One systems ( Gloucester ) Easy PC rev 23
Certainly if you can lay out all the modules you want to use in the space that you have available, you can use a "simple" PCB to replace much of the wiring between the modules. That's far from the most space-efficient technique, but it'll surely neaten things up, even if you need jumpers to get you more than "two layers" worth of connections.
(a problem might be that your board dimensions would exceed the size of "cheap" boards from China.)
Make the schematic first. Then move to PCB drawing. Proteus has in built PCB footprints for many of the components that you're using. As a beginner, you may find this tutorial helpful: How to Design PCB in Proteus - PCB Design Tutorial - PCBway
