How to control a 150 - 220 V AC motor with arduino?

Hi,

Does the valve have a flow direction arrow on its body to indicate inlet and outlet?

Do you have a DMM?
Have you measured the resistance of the solenoid?
DC coil is different to an AC coil.
When you activate the solenoid, can you please measure the voltage across the coil?

Tom... :smiley: :+1: :coffee: :australia:

Yes, the valve has marking for the inlet and outlet and I am inserting the pipe in the correct direction.

Actually I am new to this area and thus donlt have a multimeter and any device to record the above parameters.

But guys I am asking you that as of now you must have know the reason why I have to use a valve. Can you please suggest a valve from your side which I can use in my project.

I just want the pump to work for medium flow rates (as I don't have to use in any industrial application). The valve shoud allow the water ro go through it whenever I gives the command because with this valve very little water is coming from the outlet

IF you have control of the pump, what does the valve do?
Paul

@Paul_KD7HB initially I have to just use the valve but as now you are ware of the fact that the valave is not letting the water go to the outlet that is why I used water pump to push the water with force.

So, can you just suggest a valve through which I can transfer the water from first tank to another. Motor is not there in picture.

@Paul_KD7HB in post #20 asked if you tried to power the solenoid with 12v. directly , did you do that and what was the result . If you did NOT, why not ? and it's about time to help yourself to help us to help you !

how about just get a DC 12V valve? AC 12 is quite a trouble if you don't have a AC 220V- AC 12V coil

@cherk @cdr_xavier the image which I posted abive is for a valve which works for both AC and DC whereas in my case I just noticed that mine works with 12V DC only.

As of now I have tested it with DC only (it supports that only) but I am not getting good amount of water at the outlet which is my area of concern. Why despite provifing high pressurized water at the inlet, I am getting only 2-.3 drops of water per second from the outlet?

Do you guys know if another valve which works fine!

Well then, you are either connecting the valve in the reverse direction or that the valve is mechanically broken (a.k.a stuck and won't open)
sounds like the former, if you ask me.


There should be a audible "click" sound when you power it on. If you didn't hear that, well, then you aren't powering it right.

Hi,

What does it have written on it?
Does it have a power rating?

If you turn the pump off, what will happen if you do not have a valve?
Do you need a valve?

What do you mean by "successfully"?

Thanks.. Tom.... :smiley: :+1: :coffee: :australia:

Okay leave it @TomGeorge . I think there is some fault in the valve itself.

But I found this latching valve. I can control this valve through H-bridge motor shields & SPDT Relays. The working video of the same is here.

I think this is the best one for me. What do you say @TomGeorge @Paul_KD7HB @cherk @cdr_xavier ?

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Sounds about right.

the "this" leads to google.com and not what you are hoping to show us.
The one on the video look good. However since he is using 9V to power it I'm not sure if it can handle 12V. You will need to check the labels.

I don't know. I have seen people working with electrically controlled valves and I know that there is one installed in our backyard (for the water inlet for sprinklers) but I never had a reason or a need to play with those.
If it work for you, it will work for me.

@cdr_xavier I have corrected the link. In that page there are also some ways to control the valve through a microcontroller. Here it is.
As this valve can be given an input of 3.6 - 6V I will use the Vin of arduino to control it

do not. The resistance is 9 ohms so it will draw a current of 500mA. Digital pins cannot drive it and you will need amplifiers.
Depend on how many you need, the Arduino have the current capacity to drive exactly one of those. Any more will require different timing (e.g. the two valve cannot be powered at the same time)
Also notice that this valve is bi-stable. It will open once you apply a positive voltage through it (and won't close even if you disconnect from power) until you apply a negative voltage through it (and won't open even if you disconnect).
The best way to control the valve is to use two tri-state switch (or relay)s. By tri-state it mean that it have three state: C conduct to pin A, C conduct to pin B, and when no pins connect.
If you do not have such a tri-state relay (such as in this circuit diagram), you can use two relays instead.


Push the top to set the valve in one state and push the other to set the valve in the other state. Note that the "9V" does not mean you should connect 9V to it. It is to differentiate between "feed some solid power to this" compared to the little battery which mean "give it some power so it can run the relays".

I feel like using triodes (NPN or PNP transistors) are sufficient, but I don't want to remember how they works.


Edit:
See this post.
Build a H-bridge using power transistors (such as the TIP31CFS and TIP32CFS) are a good idea. 500mA at 5V isn't too much for them to handle.

Pulling both pins high or pulling both pins low will stop powering the motor (or the valve).

Hi. I am scrolling through the comments on 220V motor control and saw your rep,lies. I am hoping you might be able to clarify something I'm unsure of. I have a 240vac single phase vibration table motor that I want to switch on and off via an esp32. The motor doesn't do much except spin a counterweight on either side of its main shaft. I'm not sure of its current draw but it's possibly a 1/2hp motor. I was going to use a 40 amp SSR. But I read somewhere that large motors can draw up to 8 times their running amps at startup. So it was suggested to use a 100amp SSR.
The thing I don't get is - if that is so - then why doesn't it trip the circuit breaker on the 10amp household power line on which I've had it running? I have the 40amp SSR on hand and don't want to go and buy a 100amp unit if it is not necessary.
Also - the pins on Esp32's are 3.3v - I'm not sure if they will trigger the SSR. What do people do to lift it to 5v or more?

thanks in advance.

Hi, Jeff.
You are thinking correctly about motors. Especially AC motors. The inductance limits the inrush current and since it is rapidly going to zero and back the opposite polarity, the current is limited. A normal 15 amp wall switch could also switch the motor with no problem. DC motors, is where the trouble begins. So, your current SSR will work fine if the control voltage specs are with in what you want to control it with. Even if it says 5-30 volts for control, connect it up with a 120 volt light bulb and see if 3.3 to it's LED will work.
If it doesn't work, there is not much to do to fix it. SSR with the correct control voltage are cheap.
Paul

.Excellent! Thank you for the extra info and prompt reply.

I do not understand why people insist on getting solid state relays instead of the more traditional coil relays.
Using power transistors to power the coil for the relays. This way you can get relays controlling immense power
like this one. Something cheap solid state relays can't do.

How many of those have you purchased and used for home/hobby projects?
Paul

None. Because I don't need to.

I do have some .. er, 40A or something. coil relays powering the heating element at our home. They have 220V coils.
Depend on the config, they are wired usually in tandeem or triple parallels.

But if I do, I will probably go purchase things like those. Because you have to realize that relays are consumables (unless they are the sealed mercury type used on vessels)


I do have tried to look for some compact 24V 80A (dc) switch-type connectors for use on things like RC vehicles, but none of the ones I found are either compact enough or allow enough current

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I have used electrical components like Nodemcu, Arduino, ESP8266 Motor Driver Shield, 74HC IC, Solenoid Valve, Relay, Water flow sensor and a lot of other sensors.

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