I'm almost done with the frame assembly; now I have to put the Z bed in. But the frame, rods and Z motor are already together. I've been wondering how I would get the print bed in. According to the instructions it just goes straight on the motor/rods, then you bolt the frame to the base. My frame is riveted together so now I get to disassemble my mornings work and put the print bed on, as I should have done before putting the rods, XY carriage and Z motor in. The instructions should really reference the parts that actually ship. I like making things, but I don't like wasting my time. As the manual is digital it's really not that hard to update it as suppliers parts change.
There's also bag C26, which isn't even listed in the instructions. I was also missing some things from bag C11, but that might just have been me.
Seems to be many errors in the instructions; disappointing as it's digital and wouldn't be difficult to change. That pile of little white pop rivets are what you use to put the plastic body panels on, not the 36 screws the instructions say to use. There aren't 36 bolts left. Use any leftover bolts for the back panel though, you cant really get the base/print area floor screws in when the back is already on.
You can take all bags with the screws, bolts and nuts and use one of the plastic containers, there is no need to keep them in separate bags during assembly.
Another thing to check on the Z bed is that if you move it to 100 mm that it stands just above the polycarbonate, mine didn't in the beginning because the z adjustment screw needed just two or three more turns.
Also the screws that push the printingbed with the four springs on the frame really need to go half way in (check my youtube movie). This is where I recommend loctite (and not cyanoacrylate) on the part where the 4 bolts meet the frame. You need the weak loctite that can be reset, ask in the shop what colors they have, car specialty shops or good hardware stores do have loctite (which is a brandname, the better description is threadlock). The essence is that it does not allow the bolts to vibrate loose while printing. This could be better explained in the manual, the z screw needs threadlock, and the four printing table bolts need it, nothing else in the materia 101 needs threadlock. But once in a while you may want to check all internal screws, fixed is fixed is a good rule, never force something.
Good practice is:
If you hear a rattling noise (anywhere) then try to locate the source and fix it. High pitch rattling is a fan (is always easy to solve, check all fans, if they don't come on you missed a connection somewhere), irregular rattling means that something is vibrating. If that is a cable bundle against something then the solution is easy because you tape of strap it, if it is the table and the bed, then something is not right in the way you adjusted the printing bed relative to the extruder head. Fix this with the paper sheet test, that is, a sheet of paper should easily go between the printing bed and the extruder head, not just on one place, but everywhere in the xy domain at z is 0mm
In my prints the blue painters tape goes around the edges on the glass plate one layer thick, in this way you prevent that the tape comes loose when the heated PLA is shrinking. The printed bed adjustment should really be checked regularly with the paper sheet test, also, the test plate print is a good way to check whether your axes are orthogonal, or just print something large and flat (just a few layers is good enough) and check where the print comes loose from the tape. In that case the adjustment screws need a fraction of a turn until its gone.
If you hear a knocking noise then something is jammed, stop immediately to find out what caused the jam (this happened to me only once in the beginning)
On improvement of the manual, why is it not on a wiki page so that we can edit the text?